A Couple of Classic Flat Rock Routes

I was asked if I had any pics of classic routes at Flack Rock. I spent the better part of the climbing season bushwacking and drilling holes. I didn't get to Flat Rock too often.

One is of Jay climbing Jacob's Ladder (5.10b) which is right beside Drop the Mental (p1 5.9). The other is of Sue climbing Candy (5.7) with Hakuna Matata in the background.

If you have a good photo of a classic at Flat Rock, send it to me and I can post it.

Bonus Points

Well Kaleb...what route

How COULD you!

One of those random movies someone was watching on the home page of YouTube. Jayce asked me why I was laughing so much. I couldn't let him watch.

Under-estimation

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Okay B!tch

This is a very distinctive route. There is no bloody way Kaleb should be able to get it!

Kaleb...You Rock

This is Jay at the beginning of the route. He is well in on the ledge of UV Ray. It is bolted and I don't Jay would be straining that hard than on anything less than a hard 5.10.

Moving on up 5.11a.

Challenge 2

Okay, Devil's Bay was too easy. This one is closer to home. What route is Jay climbing on?

Too Obvious

A little too obvious I guess. This is Devil's Bay, a well known big wall on the south coast.

I will have to get more inventive!

Guess Where

I thought this photo was really cool. In the foreground is a climber, but above him are two other climbers. When you realize the distance between them, roughly a pitch each, the wall must be huge...and overhung!

Any idea's where this is? Post to the comments.

Wrecked!

Did the climbing session with Leo last night. Nasty!
Started with a 30 min warmup and then into 20 min of near continuous climbing. This was followed by a 'posture' circuit for 30 min. This was 10 min of Hangboard, 10 min of core and 10 min of pull-ups. THEN we did 30 minutes of continuous climbing. I had a hard time opening a carton of milk this morning.

Week 1 Training with Leo

Leo has allowed me to record some of the material he provides during his "Adult Training Sessions" at Wallnuts Climbing Center. We just started this last Sunday night. It runs from 8 to 11pm. The video is his introduction to the course and what to expect. Each week we are given a workout to follow for training. He says to repeat this workout for each climbing session this week (3-4 total).

The work out was:

Warm-up

30 mins of easy climbing, 'perfect climbing' or 'tap tap'.

Endurance

10 to 20 mins of continuous climbing (ie up and down climbing with no rest).

Postural Training (Antagonist)

3 Circuits of

1. Rings- push-up positon and stablize.
2. Abs- Core posture progression.
3. Forearms- Reverse wrist curls.
4. Rotator Cuff- External Rotations

Stretch

High Sea's at Main Facce

This is a picture of Main Face with high sea's. It is taken roughly from UV Ray area. You can see the rock shelf causing the waves to break. The splash from the wave easily reaches the 80 foot mark. That is about the height of Yellow Fever. In fact I think you can see spray at the level of the belay ledge of Yellow Fever (at the corner). No wonder the boulders at the base of the climbs are moved every spring!

Time to Get Ripped

The sessions begin tonight. We all got the email from Leo concerning the Adult Training. The time to get serious is now!

Judging from previous years, Leo is going to lay out a general training schedule. It will include 3 or 4 climbing sessions per week. It will be periodized through the 16 weeks. The Sunday night sessions should be challenging...Awesome.

I have done a lot of reading around training for climbing and I sort of incorporate what Leo does into my own schedule. I have been waiting for this Sunday to begin a new training cycle. SO here it is, my proposed training schedule (in an ideal world).

Basic concepts

1. Climb 3-4 times per week.
2. Sport specific training 2 times per week.
3. Antagonistic training 2 times per week.
4. Aerobic training 2-4 times per week.

Basic Week.

Sunday: Adult Training Session at Wallnuts.

Monday: Aerobic Training and Antagonist Workout

• Running for 20 minutes on Treadmill (Interval Training)
• ChestPress: 4 sets of 6-8 reps with 1 minute rest between sets
• Incline Press: 3 sets of 8-10 reps with 1 min rest
• Chest Circuit: 2 Circuits with a 1 min rest between.
• 1 Circuit= 12-15 Flat Flyes - Max Decline Push-up - Max of regular Push-up.
• Shoulder Press: 3 sets of 6-8 reps with 1 min rest between.
• Upright Row: 3 sets of 8-10 reps with 1 min rest.
• Laying Tricept Extension: 3 sets of 8-10 with one min rest.

Tuesday: Climbing Session and Core

Wednesday AM (5:30): Aerobic and Antagonist (same as mon)

Wednesday PM (8:00): Climbing and Sport Specific Training (Hangboard)

Thursday: Heavy Aerobic (40 min) and Sport Specific (Back, Bicepts and Core).

• Lat Pull-down or Weighted Pull-ups: 4 sets 6-8 reps with 1 min rest
• Seated Row or Bent-over Row: 4 sets 8-10 reps with 1 min rest
• Barbell Curls: 4 sets of 8-10 reps with 1 min rest.
• Core

Friday: Climbing and Hangboard.

Saturday: Off

I come across good workouts now and again and I will post them. I will list them as a climbing workout, sport specific workout, antagonist workout or an aerobic work out. Your week may look entirely different than mine. I usually use an aerobic workout to warmup for a weight workout. Never run or do sport specific training before climbing, you waste your energy.

Comment: 6 Rules

Trevor posted a comment to the "Rules" that I would like to share.

Apart from your protein shake. Do NOT... I repeat, do NOT snack before bedtime. That's a hard one to do but it's quite important.

Question: Does running during rest days not make it a rest day anymore? i mean, you're essentially working different muscles (apart from your heart)

Any suggestions for someone who works sporadically from 4~12 when the gym is open? That works great in the summer so I can get the hell outside, but not so much in the winter. Perhaps I should beg for keys to go along with my membership, lol.

A rest day is a day that you are not doing climbing related training. I train for climbing 4 times per week; Sunday night, Tuesday morning, Wednesday night and Friday morning. Monday, Wednesday and Thursday mornings I train my antagonists, core and aerobic capacity (ie-weight loss). The only day I really take off is Saturday but I still consider Monday and Thursday rest days from climbing.

You are looking for suggestions for training without a gym. The smart ass in me wants to say "Build your own...I did!". I had the same problem, busy at home and work and I new I needed more climbing than 2 times per week. Climbing at home fixed that problem. I built a woody in the garage and I can train there twice per week. I know what you are going to say..."Well, you have a really BIG woody. I couldn't possibly hope to have a woody as big as yours." Putting your insecurities aside, you don't need a huge climbing surface. You can make a climbing panel, 4'x8' or 4'x10', very easily for about 200$. Then get a 'wall in a box' from Metolius via MEC and you can fill the surface with holds. Create a system wall which can provide a killer work out.

You can build a frame for the panel so it is free standing and portable. When I made my first one, I used 3/8 eye screws, placed them at the 7 foot point of the 8 foot panel on the back in the studs. At the same height, I placed eye screws into the wall studs of the garage and fed a static line back and forth the eye screws to make it adjustable. You could set a problem and make it harder just by making it steeper.

The other options are hangboards and rock rings but make sure you warm-up well.

6 Simple Rules

Once again, it is training time. Leo is about to start up the adult training night (adult as in old people not bumping uglies in harnesses) and the indoor 'season' is to start in earnest. For what ever reason, I end up trying to develop a training schedule to complement what Leo is going to do.

There are some basic rules to follow when taking on such an enterprise. Some are just stupid easy and other are a little more convoluted.

Stupid Rules:

1. Climb More Some people can't figure out why they can't break a plateau. They have been climbing 5.9 for a year and can't get beyond it. The problem is that they climb once or twice per week. That is enough to maintain but not improve. Most of us should be training 3-4 times per week.
2. De-Chub I know it is ugly, not politically correct or whatever, but weight and gravity don't mix. You ever try doing pull-ups with added weight maybe 10 or 20 pounds. It makes a huge difference. You can only get 3 or 4 when you could usually get 10 to 15. It works in the opposite direction! Plus it is a hell of a lot easier to loose weight than gain strength. Not all of you can de-chub because you are already too damn skinny. If you can pinch more than an inch, think about weight loss strategies.
3. Try Harder Obvious?...or not. Most people at the gym go in and warm up on some easy stuff. Jump on their project after chatting awhile. Lay down on the mats while watching some one try to send then maybe another route. Pretty half-assed. Time is precious, use your climbing session as a work out not a social networking opportunity. Go in with a plan and come out sweating and burning.

Convoluted Rules

1. Rest Better What the f....? What is resting better? When you are training hard, you are physically breaking down tissues and using up energy stores. If you don't allow time for repair and replenishment, you begin to push a starved body. That when you get injured or stop seeing training gains. Your body rebuilds itself as you sleep, repairing muscle strains, restoring glycogen and a bunch of other things your body needs. So...rest at least 24 hours between training sessions longer if it was an intense session or you are working power. Get 8 hours of sleep a night (don't burn the candle at both ends). Have protein before going to bed. All that repair and restoration is done much better if the nutrients are readily available.
2. Train Smarter Learn about periodization training. I will not try to explain this now. I have in the past and it is documented in many places. But it does make you have a schedule and a plan to follow. If you have a half-assed approach to training you get half-assed results.
3. Paradigm Shift It is time to change your whole word, or at least the way you think about it. The power of the mind is incredible and frequently under-estimated. The mental game in climbing is huge but it is also big with training. You ever jump on a climb for a possible flash ascent. It is hard and crimpy, stiffer than what you expected but do-able. You might have even fallen once or twice but you come down thinking next time it is mine. Then you check the board...oh shit! You tried the wrong route and the one you almost flashed is 2 grades harder than your usual redpoint. AWESOME. This happened because you thought you should be able to climb this, it is within your range, when it actually is the hardest thing you ever jumped on. Your mind set was that you were going to climb well, so you did. To train harder, we all need to loose the paradigm we have of ourselves and jump on everything. Having a positive attitude is important as well. The Rock Warriors Way is a great read into the mental working of rock climbing.

Wholly Shit! Talk about a tangent. I was going to post what I developed for a training schedule and all I did was go on about some rules. Well that 'OK' the real training starts on Sunday. See ya there!

Wall of Possibilities

Bob is pathetic! Almost as pathetic as me. Last month, he took it upon himself to go bushwacking around the German Face and the Upper Faces. With no leaves on the trees he was able to get a much better look at the rocks. He was like a kid in a candy store telling me about all the possibilities.

Bob actually named this photo as the Wall of Possibilities, but I think the name will stick to the wall.

This is the left side of the upper faces. The notch in the trees at the right of the picture unveils the 'roof' I can't wait to get to (see prev posts). That dead vertical face continues for about another 100 meters (roughly). The lines will vary in height from 40 to 80 feet and they look pretty clean. One nice thing about shorter faces is that they are quicker to bolt.

Great Response

This picture was taken in late August. Bob and I were pretty amazed by this. Most climbers looking at this would think that it looks just like any other belay area at the base of a wall. And I guess it is. The reason that it kinda freaks me out is that 3 months prior to this picture, no one had climbed on this face. We cleaned up the base, trimmed the trees and such, but without a lot of travel, it starts getting overgrown fairly quick. Having such a well developed base testifies to how much this wall is getting used...awesome!

Bob and I are kinda conflicted about next summer. There are 2 area's that we want to look at next (German Face is played out). Noobie Squeeze is a trad area about 300 meters before German Face. You pass under it on the way. There are a couple of routes we want to solidify with some bolts and a lot of potential. One is a small but severely overhanging face which I have been staring for a couple of years. The other is a section of rock that starts vertical and slowly becomes overhung, it kinda looks like a wave.

The other area is starting the upper faces. There is the roof that I am somewhat obsessed with and numerous vertical faces just waiting. Bob is looking to get a drill so we should be able to double our productivity. (7 routes this year...14 plus next?). As well, Matt, Trevor and Paul have a new drill. They might be able to tear themselves away from Flat Rock to set a route or two inland. We will see?!?

Lost and Found

"Giver" chalk bag left at my place. Please leave comments as to who's it is.

Trevor's post

Trevor was good enough to post a comment about the Viagra Classic on the collective blog. He posted a picture of Danny DeVito, in reference to my good looks....Thanks.

My reply'

Danny DeVito ehh. Bald short fat guy!!! This is how these young whipper snippers think of me! Well I am going to take my daily dose of Geritol, start doing some dips on my walker, get the tight fitting Attends and start some serious training. The next time you see me pulling down, it won't be just the Parkinson's making shake...HARD EFFORT! And after my 15 minute session (Doctor recommended), I will down my post-work out energy drink (Ensure) and dream of the day I summit the stairs.

WATCH OUT!!!!

Hiene Stikes Again

The Viagra Classic II went ahead last night. There was about 8 of us. Notably some regular partners were absent. I think the Hiene (H1N1) got them. There are other bugs going around that aren't H1N1 but you can't really tell so everyone is staying home.

We had a great time. 22 problems set up in the garage ranging from V0 to V6 or better. I was great to see Kaleb, Matt and Pat get spanked. Flip side is that these problems are taunting me. They had one night to send, I have all winter. Matt said that should keep working them until get them. That could be a retirement project!

Trevor had his camera and I am hoping he will post something I can embed into the blog (hint-hint Trev).

I have heard so encouraging stuff about Rumney in the spring so I will be there. That will be my training for winter.

Viagra II

I was looking for a picture of an "old guy" to put up as the poster 'child' for the Viagra II. I came across this picture on rockclimbing.com. His name is Fred Beckley. He began climbing in the 1930's. At the ripe age of 81, he is still leading 5.9 trad multipitch.

I hope that I might be an octogenarian rock climber myself one day. For now I can handle just being 'old'.

The other night I said I had to get a 'little something up' on the blog about the classic. For the rest of the night it was all about how I couldn't get it up! Enough said!

Viagra II. My house (36 Cheyne Drive). Friday November 6, 2009. 7pm to 11pm. Please bring crash pads as I only have one. There will be a good variety of problems. The are several set by Matt and Kaleb. This should increase the challenge for you elite #@%$#'s. There is a problem that Kaleb says no-one will be able to do. I have yet to figure out a prize but I am thinking about a pot (5 buck a person winner take all). I have no idea how to get women to climb. Last year there were a good number showing but no one climbing. I'm thinking a wall rotation or something. I am open to idea's.

Trevor said he may bring some clips to watch after the throw down. Leo may have some pics of Squamish and I have some pics from the Gunks. A bit of a show after.

Directions: Newfoundland Drive-Carrick-Rt to Regent St-2nd Lt to Cheyne Dr.- Last house on Rt before the hill.

WOD Oct 27

Warm-up

2 laps silent feet

2 laps of perfect climbing

8 minute intervals of creshedo climbing.

(eg. 5.5s, 5.7, 5.9 ect.)

Interval should be a warm down.

One set of Enduro-hangs.

Protein 20 gms Stat!

Rumney?

I am toying with the idea of going to Rumney, NH in June 2010. Awesome sport climbing area.

Have a look!

Enduro-hangs.

Training isn't falling into place really well. I have gotten too busy with some other stuff. I have been climbing more in the last 2 weeks than I have in the last 2 months. It is good to be back. I am only climbing about twice a week.

Here is a challenge for ya. After fully warming up with some climbing, get yourself to a hangboard. You are about to do a nasty endurance/power endurance exercise.

On the jugs

Hang for 30 sec then drop.

Rest 30 sec.

Hang 30 sec.

Rest 30 sec.

Repeat for 10 min total.

1. If you can't stay on for 30 sec rest for the remainder of the minute (ie 20 sec/ on 40 rest).

2. If 30 sec on/30 off is too easy, increase the on time (40 sec on/ 20 sec off).

Do this once or twice per week at the end of a training session. To push endurance, increase the total time (15 min). To push power endurance, increase the on time or add weight with your hangs (ankle weights or hangs weight plates from your hips).

A "Stiffy" in the Air

I have been feeling a little limp lately. Just not as hard (core) as I used to be. I need to get a little invigorated. I guess it is time for the Viagra Classic. It will be in early November, just gotta get the dates 'solid'.

Prep is already under way. This is a shot of Kaleb finishing off a problem he set tonight. Matt was over last week putting up something that made me feel entirely inadequate.

I think it will be a bit sicker than last year.

Periodization

Periodization is training in cycles or periods. Each cycle concentrates on one aspect training. Typically the cycles go thru endurance, strength and power endurance. Each cycle is done for a few weeks. This can vary depending on your goals. In general, I like 3 week blocks.

Endurance is a good place to start. It eases you back into a new cycle. It conditions your tendons and ligaments for the strain of climbing. Muscles that may have been on vacation for a while are gently put back to work. Mentally it is a good place to start as well. You are not beating yourself up for not climbing as hard as you did at the end of your last cycle (for me about 6 months ago).

There are a number a ways to train for endurance. It all has to do with being on the wall for a long time. It can be intervals of 10 minutes or biner carrier...what ever. When training endurance, try NOT to get that deep burning pain (ie- when you are flaming at the end of a route).

Work-out of the Day (WoD)

Pitches- Starting with the Lowest grade, climb as many different routes in ascending difficulty as possible in a given time (90 min). If you begin to burn start working back down the grades. If you want, post the number of pitches you got in in 90 minutes (assuming you are swapping pitches with a partner).

End of a Season

Well I think that is it! Wet cold weather is stopping me from getting out anymore. I was a good season. 7 routes and the development of the German Face. Unfortunately I don't have a lot to blog about.

We are going to start training again to see if we can get back some lost strength. Typically we train on Sunday and Wednesday nights. We are going to do some periodization training, similar to what Leo does with the adult climbing club (no it is not a swingers club for climbers). I am thinking about posting the workouts we do.

The Viagra Classic is in the cross hairs again. Matt was over the other night to put up a couple of routes. I am hoping to get Caleb over at some point. We will probably fill in the gaps. I figure it will go at the end of Oct or early Nov.

3 Point Equallette

When I published the first item on an equallette, I had a lot of questions how it worked. People couldn't figure it out from the pictures. I hope this little clip helps.

Placing bolts

Found this video on YouTube. It is a very good discussion on how to place bolts. It does not cover glue-in bolts.

2 Point Equallette

A quick clip on a 2 point equallette.

Manuels Upper Faces

I made this video when I first came upon the Upper Faces at Manuels. They range from 70 to 200 feet and continue around both ends from what can be seen here.

Jan on Tach Auch

One of my first attempts at posting a video in a blog. Unfortunately at this point I have only been able to upload to YouTube and then make a link. (Help!!)

A Sh!tty Topic

Kim has stopped belaying me. I can't trust her anymore. Ever since I posted about her lack of fecal production, she has a new evil look in her eye. She says that she will get me back in some way, I just want to avoid any rapid descents. But in her defense, she did remind me of something else. It is one of the possible problems associated with the defecation habit.

One day not long ago, we were out climbing when the urge came to Bob. He dutifully collected his arse wipe and went for a trip in the woods. During his preparation he forgot one important thing. While in the midst of his squat with nature, her noticed something unusual hanging between his legs. The problem was that he almost shit on it, or should I say in it. Bob forgot to take off his chalk bag and he nearly filled it with an innovative new chalk. So remember to take off your harness and chalk bag.

Bob's Big FA.

Saturday morning Bob had a fairly big first. He sent his first FA of the year but also his first sport FA ever! On top of that, and I might be wrong, it was also Bob's hardest FA to date.

Bob had been spying a line beside German Engineered. He had top bolts over it for over a month. Last week we set up a TR over it and began sussing out a potential line. That is when his rope got jammed in a constriction. The effort to get it out shredded the sheath of the rope, causing a core shot.

After that, Bob spent the rest of the morning bolting the line but we ran out of time. He had to leave with it only half bolted.

Soon as we arrived at the face yesterday, Bob set up his rope and took the drill to finish his line. With 12 bolts plus top anchors Bob was done.

Bob then jumped on the sharp end and began his ascent (Kim was climbing Tach Auch and took a few pictures while Bob was climbing). Beginning just to the right of German Engineered, the route follows the face directly up where it meets a hollow sounding but very stubborn boulder. It then goes right of the boulder to gain a ledge. From here it goes further right to a flat face that has good but not obvious features as it shifts back to the left to meet another ledge where the anchors are.

Bob sent it in fine style. Core Shot 5.8 made the sixth route on the German Face.

While Bob was bolting, Kim and Jan were climbing and I was cleaning the fixed line ramp. After Bob sent Core Shot, Jan and I bolted the ramp. Six bolts protect the climb to meet up with the top anchor of Sick Like Dog. German Access 5.5 is the easiest and probably the most traveled line there. We took down the fixed line and that rope is now retired. Next season we will use a fixed line for the upper faces.

We think that the German Face is pretty much played out now. There is room for other routes, but they would be fairly broken up and contrived. We feel pretty good about our progress this summer, a new area with seven 80-90 foot lines. Those are from left to right:

German Engineered 5.7

Core Shot 5.8

Tach Auch 5.9

Photophobia 5.10c

Hat' Shit 5.10a

Sick Like Dog 5.6

German Access 5.5

We cleaned out our stuff for the winter though we may get out a few times before the snow hit. The Halloween stuff is already in stores and before ya know it, we will be drinking eggnog and singing Christmas tunes.

Time to get the WOOD out.

I am thinking this Sunday evening would be a good time to start getting some routes up for the Viagra Classic. If your interested and can come Sunday 8pm, let me know in the comments. I only have one crash pad, so if you have one, bring it.

Climbing for tomorrow am is looking good.

The Equalette

I read about a new anchoring system called the equalette in John Long's latest edition of Climbing Anchors. It is an very different book than the previous edition. Much more involved with the physics of anchor building. It is not just pictures of what to do and what not to do.

In this book he described an equalette and discussed how it is better than a cordalette. I loved my cordalette so I just had to check this thing out. Well, here it is.

It is any piece cordalette or webbing. The center is found and 2 overhand knots are tied about 6 inches apart. This provides 2 limbs between the knots and a biner is clipped each one separately and the rope is threaded thru both biners. If either side fails, extension is limited by the overhand knots. If either limb between knots fails, the other is there for backup. SO it is equalized, redundant and no extension. What makes it better? An equalette can accommodate 2 to 4 pieces and it distributes the load more evenly to all pieces.

A cordalette require 3 pieces, and is used to connect all three with an overhand knot at the power point. Rarely things are perfectly equalized. This causes one piece to carry more load than others. Even if it is well equalized, the anchor is unidirectional. If you climb out of the intended direction of fall, the load does not distribute equally.

The power point of the equalette acts like a sliding X, it automatically equalizes to the direction of pull. Unlike the sliding X, extension is minimized by the overhand knots. It can be used with 2, 3 or 4 pieces. With 2 pieces, figure 8's on a bite are used to determine where the power point is placed.

With 3 or 4 pieces, the highest piece is tied with a figure 8. Then each of the three remaining limbs are tied to the other pieces with clove hitches. They are adjusted so the power point hangs in the middle. When loaded, the weight is evenly distributed over all placement (unless your adjustments are really messed up).

In his book, John Long states that once you are used to the system, it is faster to set-up and tear down, neater and easier to check. If you require only one biner (ie for Gri Gri), you can place a biner thru both biners already hanging or rig a single biner as for a sliding X.

Threat of Personal Harm

There is something I have been wondering about for some time now. Maybe someone out in cyberspace has the answer.

On our morning ventures, which start at 5am, we always meet up at Tim Horton's and then carry on. Now matter how well I plan or how much time I spend planning. The same bloody thing happens. It starts as that wonderful caffeine buzz starts to hit. Rumbling, twitching, and then spasm. That intensely horrible urge to shit your brains out and you are in the middle of the freakin' woods by the time it really hits. It is not a nice thing to be moving into a crux section and your main concentration is spent on keeping your sphincter tight (god forbid you risk a fart!).

In case you are wondering, caffeine is a GI stimulant and Tim's happens to be very strong in me. I have seen the same phenomena in most of my climbing partners. Almost everyone has, at some point, had to go fertilize a tree. But then there is KIM.

I don't get this chick! I meet her at Tim's at 5am. I know she is drinking the same shit I am. I have not yet once know of her going off into the woods to have a glorious dump. 3 years of early morning, diarrhea inducing, caffeine. The odd 'tinkle' in the wood sure but why doesn't she have to take a crap like the rest of us. I asked her about it on Sunday, I got a dirty look. I told her I was going to "post it" and that's where the personal harm thing came in. Oh well, curiosity killed the cat.

Core Shot

Today Kim, Bob and myself were out at Manuels. We were prepping a line to bolt and I was actually lowering on his rope. The rope got jammed in a crack at the top. After much friggin' around I managed to get the rope clear. I finished lowering off and Bob got on and noticed a near core shot about 2-3 inches long. I had basically ripped the sheath trying to get the thing unstuck.

The strength of a rope comes from its core and if it is compromised, retire the rope immediately. The sheath of Bobs rope had been shredded off exposing the core for a long section. Though the core is still intact, that is reason enough to retire it. Lucky we were on a burly 11mm rope. A skinny 9.5mm rope could have been severely compromised. That is why Bob and I still climb on the biggest rope we can get. I hope to post a picture of it soon (no camera today).

On a lighter note, I am also going to post something on Tim Horton's coffee, climbing and bowel habits!

Sunday Sept 6

Climbing in the morning if the weather holds.

Who Wants to Play With My Woodie?

I feel a Viagra Classic coming on and I need some routes set. Any volunteers? (Leave in comments)

Developers Paradise

Not many people in our climbing community realize just how good we have it. We think about how other places must be SO good and don't think about what is in our own back yard. Flat Rock is a good climbing area. It has hard exposed routes and a minimal approach maybe 15 minutes. What you may not realize is that by national and international standards, we have some good damn climbing. It is very technical, ocean exposure (which is kinda rare) and near dead vertical routes. Now they many not be multi pitch but they are hard.

We are one of they few places in Canada where you can be climbing outside and a half hour later be at work. Most places have a longer transit time or an approach that makes it difficult for a quick spin on the rock. Red Rocks, Nevada is just outside Las Vegas. Once you drive thru town (30-60min) most of the approaches take at least 30 min. It is not uncommon for climbers to drive for hours just to get to there local outdoor crag.

Development here is very new. Climbing started in North America in the 30's and 40's. Most climbing areas with sport routes began significant development in the 80's. Climbing didn't get a good foothold here until the 90's. The vast majority has been centered on Flat Rock. There are over 200 routes most of which have gone up in the last 10 years. But why do we have only one main area? The answer is the path of least resistance. It is much easier to put up new routes in an established area than to start a whole new area (trust me!).

We have so many cliffs of about 100 feet or less that could be developed within a 30 minute drive of town. I can think of 6 off the top of my head, and some I have already played on. Bob frequently tells about faces he has seen and would love to develop. I tell him he is nuts because it is over an hours drive and no one from St. John's would bother. Case in point: Jay began developing an area in the Avalon Wilderness Preserve 3 years ago. He was giddy with its potential. He put up 6 or 7 routes in the 5.11 and 5.12 range. Despite his efforts no one climbs there today. It is only a 60 minute drive.

There is amazing possibilities for multi-pitch climbing. I know of a face that is about 200 meters high and you can hike to the very top and you could walk off the bottom. The problem...it is an hours hike to get to. Not many here are willing to make that trek when there is good old Flat Rock.

All this and I have not even considered the faces that are over water. If you are fearless and don't mind the lack of an escape (lowering off), the development potential goes up ten fold.

And big wall shit! Devils Bay is an internationally known destination for it's bullet hard granite and fine climbing. It is only one of many many 1000 foot faces on the south coast of the island. Honestly, it kinda blows me away.

For me I get to pick and choose. Bob brought me to Manuels about 3 years ago. It had a number of things I had been looking for. Close to town, easy approach and most importantly lots of moderate terrain around 100 feet. We began developing then, but kinda slowly. Chopping out paths, cleaning faces and all the scutt work that come with developing. This summer has been a bit of a culmination of a lot of work. Both Bob and I are really excited to see people using the area. It makes it worth it. But the best part is yet to come. There is much more stuff to put up at Noobie Squeeze Face and then there are all of the upper faces which we haven't even touched yet. It will take a few years if we maintain our pace.

Manuels is only one of the 6 area's I can thinks of within 30 minutes of town. There is just so much rock and so little time... a developers paradise.

Manuels Updated Topo

We managed to get a few routes up on the German Face this summer. Probably room for one or two more. As it stands now, we have 5 routes with about 55 bolts over all 5 (I guess I will need to buy some more).

From left to right:

German Engineered (Blue) 5.8

Tach Auch (Green) 5.9

Photophobia (Yellow) 5.10b

Hat' Shit (Red) 5.9+

Sick Like Dog (purple) 5.7

Photophobia 5.10b (?c).

Bob and I got out to Manuels this morning. Instead of placing 3 bolts to start the route, it starts on the first 2 bolts of Tach Auch. I had to place one more to bridge the gap to Photophobia. Getting to the 4th bolts is quite easy but it is at the beginning of a fairly blank face. Another 3 bolts get you thru the crux section. The upper third is more like 5.9 so I spaced the bolts a bit more to keep the challenge up. It is the stiffest route I have put up this year.

Bob began spying and cleaning a new line beside German Engineered. It is nice and consistent climbing. Bob will bolt it the next time out. We figure it will go around 5.8.

I am soon to do up a route guide for the area but that is probably useless until next year.

Today was the first time I had been to German Face in about a month. I was very happy to see that the path is getting worked in. I guess people are getting out there to climb. Awesome.

Big Step

Climbing last year in the Gunks was great. I did a lot training to get ready for that trip. Unfortunately I trained the wrong thing. I was lapping mid 5.10's and flashing the odd 5.11. The entire time in the Gunks I don't think I did a climb over a 5.8. The mental muscle is what I needed to train.

This is a picture of leading the second pitch of Betty, a Gunks classic. This step was over a void of 150 feet. Lots of stemming and little roofs. Coming up under the roofs was intense. After 2 pitches I was at the top. My first multi-pitch lead. I was scared and stoked at the same time. What made it so hard for me was the mental game. It was only a 5.3.

Leading on trad, unfamiliar rock, never having lead above 50 feet, the uncanny exposure...all these things made it intense. My only regret is that I never pushed my physical limits. I think it would be nice to dial down the mental intensity and push the physical limits for the next trip. Get into some single pitch sport climbing. It is a nice goal for a winter of climbing indoors.

Is everyone back?

It has been a bit of a dry spell. I was off on vacation for two weeks and when I get back Bob and Kim are off and Jan is in Germany. All my regular partners have been away. I still have a route to finish bolting and a couple of other projects that I would like to have bolted before winter. The kids will be back to school soon and before you know it snow, again!

Last year Leo and I went to the Gunks at the end of Sept. and had a great time climbing. It seems that I am strongest at the beginning of the season. I am thinking of maybe doing a spring road trip. Go somewhere with a lot of good sport routes so we can push some limits. Food for thought.

I have been asked when I am going to put off the next Viagra Classic. Maybe in the fall.

Climbing Before Bill

Hurricane Bill is coming our way. I thought he might rain us out for Sunday but the forecast is good. Myself and Tim will be going out to Manuels (yet to confirm with Tim). When I get back I have to Hurricane Proof the house and cabin. Should be fun.

OR Humor

Sometimes the guys in the or have too much time on their hands.

iPod Found

Tim and I were climbing down at Cemetery Face this morning before it began raining. We managed to get in 3 routes before the rain started. While we were cleaning up, Tim happened to see this iPod in the trees. It is an older model and white in color. I think it is toast because of the condensation on the inside of the screen.

News From Jan

Jan has been living in Newfoundland now over 2 years. He returned to Germany at the beginning of August to tie up a few loose ends before returning. This picture is from some hiking Jan was doing last week. This is the type of surrounding that Jan learned to climb in. He was told me about numerous multi-pitch sport climbs in the 5.6 to 5.8 range. These climbs were up to 10 pitches long (1000+ feet). That would be a nice afternoon jaunt.

He also went to a new climbing gym in Gliching with is just west of Munich. The wall are 40 feet with synthetic rock panels and modular holds. It looks like the work of Enter Prise Systems (or something similar). I guess it is time for a bit of a renovation, hey Leo???

Wetness Overnight

The forecast isn't so hot. 60% showers overnight and rain starting in the morning. Unless something really changes, tomorrow morning will be rained out.

A picture of Bob, Jan and Kim. Jan is helping Kim with her belay device and NOTHING else!

Vacation Over

I am back. I spent a week out at the cabin and a week in Corner Brook. Hardly any exercise and a whole lot of junk food. In a weird way it felt pretty good but it is time to get my shit together. I am hoping that Leo will start his climbing sessions in the fall. If not I will be getting on a training schedule regardless. Long range?... possibly a trip in the fall.

Days Off

Every now and again I think it is worth while taking a bit of time off climbing. It allows you to re-focus and heal up some long standing but minor injuries. I am in the middle of taking 2 weeks off climbing. I can't say that I have gone into withdrawl or anything but I find myself staring at various faces wondering what they would be like to climb.
Mentally I have been a little exhausted lately. I love climbing and training for climbing but sometimes it gets to be a bit too much. Instead of the unbrideled excitement of going climbing it has been a bit more of a chore. Lugging the equipment in and out. Burning hard earned 'browny points' to get out when I don't usually. It can be a real balancing act. Taking a few days off can make it feel new again.

Happy Birthday

Happy Birthday to ME!!!!

Today I am 41 years old and trying to act like I am 21 years old. My kids thinks I am silly...but what would they know.

Another New Face???

Was just talking to Andrew L. about some stuff unrelated to climbing. He was out in the middle of the woods at some over hung face that he just found. He was on his way to the German Face and got off trail and came to this hidden overhung face that is further on that the German Face. They set up a TR and figured they were on something around a 5.11. He promises to get me a couple of pictures.

Photophobia

We were out climbing this morning with Trevor filming us. He filmed Kim climbing German Engineered and me climbing Tach Auch. After that he was filming Bob cleaning a face and myself bolting a new line. I have mixed feelings about the new line. It is inconsistent. It starts of quite easy at 5.8ish. Then the middle third gets onto a thin face with shitty feet and crimps. It is probably about a hard 5.10. Then the top gets easy again. I was thinking about trying to get a roof move at the end but the fall was too dangerous. I didn't finish bolting it today, it still needs 3 bolts at the bottom. When done I will likely call it Photophobia.

A View

This is one of the views from the top of the German Face (looking south). It is really quite beautiful up there. The weather might co-operate tomorrow with rain starting later in the morning. We will probably stick to the German Face to avoid getting caught above in more difficult terrain.

Tim's at 5:15, Bob's 5:30 trail head at 6am.

Darwin Productions

I received an email from Trevor and he is wondering about some filming on the weekend. In a previous post, I explained Trevor's background and his interest in filming. He is making a full length film on climbing in Newfoundland. He has asked me if he could film some of the development we have been doing out in Manuels. He is fresh back from climbing in BC and asked me if this weekend is OK.

If the weather is good, I would say we will be out Saturday morning. I guess I should shine my head and put on some concealer. If the camera really does put on 10 pounds and 10 years, I should look like Danny DiVeto.

Newfie Big Wall

I was reading Paul's blog "Rock Climbing in Newfoundland". It sounds like Paul and company did a very significant climb. To quote Paul's Blog; "Trevor, Leo, Kaleb, and I linked the three climbs Calculus Crack, Memorial Crack, and The Squamish Buttress into a thirteen pitch effort to top out the Chief. It was a long day that turned our bodies into Alpo and our minds into what you throw up after eating Alpo. This was Trevor's first multi-pitch and given the size and scope of this endeavour he handled it all extremely well. It was definitely a good experience and I will have a few things to say about it all when I have more time."

That is a huge climb! 13 pitches at an average of 100 feet per pitch...1300 feet. That is as high as Half Dome in Yosemite. Leo and I did a 3 pitch 5.7 at the Gunks. We started at 10 am and finished at about 2pm. There was only 2 of us. 13 pitches must have been like a marathon. Holly shit and Cudo's to the team.

Kim's Progress

Kim climbed Tach Auch on lead again. This time she had to hang her own draws and set an anchor. This is a fairly big deal. Anyone knows that when climbing close to your limit, having the draws pre-placed makes life a lot easier. I think she will have to find a nice 5.10 next to really challenge her.

I was going up the fixed line to begin bolting Hat' Shit when I realized I may get a good shot of Kim climbing. Usually you just get ass shots or the top of their heads.

Hat' Shit 5.9 (+)

Beautiful morning out at Manuels today. Bob, Kim, Tim and myself got out. Bob and Tim climbed German Engineered while Kim and I went up Sick Like Dog. We did not go to the upper faces today for a number of reason, one being that I didn't have my hammer with me to sink any bolts.

I had been looking at a line that went straight down off the anchors of Sick Like Dog. Kim and I played on it a little bit when I decided to bolt it. "No Hammer!" I thought. Bob had mentioned that there was a hatchet in out 'cleaning box' at the base of the climbs. I decided to use the back of it as a hammer.

You ever wonder why you are not suppose to run with scissors? Well it just plain stupid. I think repelling and hammering bolts with the business end of an axe coming at your face may fit in the same category. Regardless, today I put up Hat' Shit. I think it is a 5.9 possibly a 5.10a. It is a bit harder than Tauch Auche but still have a hard time calling it a 10a. Kim thought it should be a 10a and I kinda agree with her but primarily because some moves are reachy.

It starts just left of Sick Like Dog up the middle of a short thin face. You gain a ledge for the second and third bolt. The middle face is thin with small feet and thin cracks for hands. Once over that face there is another ledge before a pretty cool lay back move to gain the upper portion which meets up with Sick Like Dog for the last bolt before the anchors.

I sent it and then Tim sent it as well. That was the nail in the coffin for a 5.9. Tim hasn't been climbing all year and well if he could sent it...... It couldn't be a 5.10a!

I almost called it Drunk Like Pig but I will save that for the next one. I TR'd a line between Tauch Auche and Hat' Shit. It will be pretty stiff and I think I will put a ceiling move at the top of it. It will probably go at a hard 10. That is for next time!

Sue-be-do

We had some new and unusual folk out on Tuesday morning. Tak is always find new people who are interested in climbing...and talks them into getting up at 5am.

Sue on the only hand is the unusual one! Sue is a lovely gal who I have known thru the gym for years. I have never had the pleasure of climbing with her outside. Look who got out of bed. Sue is TRing Candy (5.7).

Technical Problems

I received a couple of comments from people stating that they have checked the blog in the last 3 days. I changed my blog format 3 days ago. On closer inspection, it wiped out any custom changes I made such as the links to Paul's blog and script used for the Google Analytics program I was using to monitor the blog. SO I have the analytics stuff back (I think).

Weather looks good for tomorrow.

DownFall

I have an analytics program to monitor my blog. In June I was getting all time high of hits, 25-30 per day. For the third day in a row, no hits! I guess I should change my format or something!

Flat Rock

A shot of Main Face with the morning sun. It is hard to beat a sunrise on the east coast.

I hope we will be climbing at Manuels this Saturday morning.

The LSTB Program Spanking (5.11a)

The LSTB Program was a route I helped Leo bolt a couple of years ago. I never did climb it cleanly, I escaped right to the corner.

Today, against better judgement, I decided to jump on LSTB. I got to the crux and got shut down. The crux is beside the second bolt which is at about the level of Taks foot but in line with the rope. There is a crappy left handed pinch, a little nubbin for a right hand and very poor feet. The move required is to get a finger ledge about 2 feet above the pinch. Once to the ledge, there is a huge crack (Tak is looking into it) to gain the upper half of the climb...home free. I had a couple of wide expansion cams for the crack. After, ohh, 30 tries I lowered off defeated.

Jan stepped up to the plate and took off. Jan managed to get the finger ledge and then I found out that the ledge is really a mysterious sloper-fest and the crack wouldn't take anything bigger than a .75 Camolot. Jan managed to make the top making it look easy (bastard).

But in hind sight, what the hell was I thinking jumping on a 5.11a, I deserved a good ass kicking.

Sun Up at Flat Rock

It was a beautiful morning down at Flat Rock. The sun was beaming on the rocks and about 20 degrees.

We had a few new climbers with us this am which brought up an interesting problem. The approach to Main Face is easy but not many 'easy' routes. Spanky's has better routes for new climbers but you have to rap into and climb out.

Climbing Tuesday July 21

Just talking with Bob. We are going to go to Main Face tomorrow morning. We are going to meet at Tim's on Majors Path at 0515. We will be at Main Face from about 6 to 8am.

Another Wash Out

The forecast sucks for the weekend.  It is calling for showers on both Saturday and Sunday.  This will make it 2 weeks with out climbing outdoors.  

Last weekend Matt dropped by and got some glue-in bolts off me.  He said he had a couple of lines down at Flat Rock he wanted to bolt.  I think he was going to do this with a hand drill.  Best of luck Matt!

The last time I had talked to Justin, I had mentioned the line that I had TR'd on the face he had been working.  He had that bolted before I had even talked to him.  Man that guy is a demon with placing bolts.

Other than that, I have been relatively out of touch.

Slender Face

This is a picture Bob sent me of the face we are developing now.  The 'roof' I have been fixated on is to the extreme right and this long short face is just around the corner.  It is about 150 feet long and about 40 to 50 high.  Like most of the rock in the area, it is well featured but not a lot for pro.

Note:  this picture is from a number of years ago when Bob was first scouting this area.  He must have been in climbing withdrawal and had to get out to look at cliffs in early spring.

Mystery Bolts

Bob, Kim and Tak managed to get out on Saturday past.  The week before we scouted out what looked to be a long slab (within the square).  It looked really promising.  Lots of interesting features including vertical rails and an undulating face.  As one works to the right, it becomes more positive and shorter.  This will likely end up with several 2 pitch 5.8 and less.

Bob went to check out the top of it and low and behold there were already 2 bolts at the top.  If you remember, I had found two bolts at the top of the German Face.  Someone had the same thoughts we did but years earlier.  I have no idea who it was.  Regardless, the next time out I may get a better look at it.

Frame of Mind

Once again, the 'summer' phenomena has kicked in. I have complained about this for years and it still happens so I may as well just accept it. I AM OUT OF SHAPE!
Each winter I train to get strong, try to prove to myself (and others) that I am a Rock Climber! To prove that I can climb hard and well enough (in my own mind) so I may be accepted into cult of Avalon Rock Climbers. After endless Sunday night training sessions and many more early morning solo bouldering sessions. After hanging for what seems like hours on the smallest crimps I can handle in the name of getting stronger. After all the effort I put in, in the name of climbing hard, what do I do?
The lovely wonderful summer comes. I begin getting outdoors to climb and develop. We begin putting up some great fun routes. The comradery is great, the energy is infectious. All is good. It is good that is until I try to climb hard.
What goes "grunt, grunt, pitch-smack...grunt, grunt, pitch-smack"? That would be me getting spanked by a route I used to lap!
Acceptance! I just have to accept that summer leads to weakness. I end up climbing only 2 or 3 times per week. The climbing I do is usually only a couple of routes, and easy at that. I drink too much beer. I BBQ too much food and generally become lazy. And then comes vacation! Taken entirely out of my training environment for 2 weeks.
At the end of summer I feel like the Pillsbury Doe Boy attempting to impale himself upon plastic jugs in the gym. The cult just shake their head at what could have been (the pathetic overweight bald guy is trying to slime up another route).
So this is what happens to me when I don't get to climb for a week! Hopefully Saturday will be nice.

Been Busy

I have been a bit slack on publishing but work and life has been busy. I would like to publish other people's pictures, climbing stories/epics, etc. If you have anything you would like to publish send it to kindasleepy@rockclimbing.com and I will try to get it out there.

Post for "Dan"

Check the comment from "Dan" below.

A lot of climbers climb at Walnuts Climbing Gym here in the city. You can get a route guide there that documents a lot of the climbs at Flat Rock. I am not climbing this weekend because I have to work. Usually Flat Rock on Saturdays is quite busy and you may be able to hook up. I know a few guys who would probably take you up on it but I would not want to publish their numbers on the Internet. Justin or Jan might be interested and are usually available. Post a comment with your email address, I won't publish it but I will pass it on.
Anyone interested in climbing Dan, leave a comment and I will publish it.

Explorations

Earlier in the morning, Jan, Bob, Matt and Myself went to check out a long slabby face.  It looks quite good with some interesting features.  I don't have a good picture of it but will when we start developing it.  

When Matt and I were bolting, Jan lead up the Upper Face to scout it out.  The rock is really solid and well featured.  When I got up there a little later, Jan was belaying Bob up and Tak and Justin were already at the top.  Jan belayed me up last. 

When I got up there, I realized I had left my drill at the base.  Matt happened to come along.  He was able to spot the roof for me (I dropped a rock over it).  Then he got Justin's drill for me and brought it up.  I placed two set of rappel anchors, one above the route Jan had lead up and one over the roof feature I am fixated on.  Justins drill is awesome.  Mine is a 24 volt Hilti and Justin's is a 36 volt Bosch.  His drill just melted the rock away, really impressive.  And to thick earlier I was showing Matt how to use a hand drill.  It would take an hour to do was that drill did in less than a minute.

It appears that the face immediately above the German Face is the one to be developed next.  I will set up a fixed line on it the next time I am out. 

Sick Like Dog 5.7

Matt and I set up a fixed line to bolt the next route while Jan and others were exploring.  Matt caught on quickly to the bolting thing and within an hour we had the line bolted.  The bottom 1/4 was a little tricky to figure out because it was a little thin and we were trying to keep it at an easy level.  The opening moves are the only reason this was graded at a 5.7.

Matt sent Sick Like Dog (SLD 5.7).  He felt it was really cool climbing.  This makes the 3rd fully bolted line on the German Face.  German Engineered (GE 5.8), Tauch Auch (TA 5.9) and Sick Like Dog (SLD 5.7).