Friday, March 30, 2012

Big Concerns About Bolting

I recently heard of a couple things that have made me concerned about people bolting rock faces around St. John's. Terry told me that the Outfitters had brought in some bolts. I went down to have a look at what they have.

I began asking some questions of the sales person. They obviously didn't know much about bolting for rock climbing. He went on to tell me that they have actually been selling a fair number of these bolts. They have also sold just the hangers. So why am I concerned?

In that discussion, the people he had sold the bolts to were thinking of placing them in Flat Rock. The guys he sold the hangers to said he had some other bolts at home. I asked what kind of bolts the guys had at home...he didn't know. I mentioned that if the metals were different that it could accelerate corrosion under the hanger. He didn't realize that nor seemed to care!!!

If you are planning to bolt something outside, PLEASE do your homework! Expansion bolts should not be used down at Flat Rock. There is a lot of water spray during the winter and multiple freeze-thaw cycles which weaken the bolt and the rock around it. The salt water mixed with dis-similar metal accelerates corrosion under the hanger. It is difficult to see this. Flat Rock should be bolted with Glue-in bolts. The bolt is bonded to the rock. No water can get in. The bolt is all one piece so there is no corrosion.

I use expansion bolts in Manuels because it is inland away from the salt water and spray. I have put expansion bolts on the bottom of Candy. These are removable bolts!!! They are temporary. I am going to pull them and put it Glue-in bolts.

If you are buying bolts and don't know the basics, you should not be putting them in. There are many thing that can go wrong placing bolts. It is fantastic to have enthusiastic climbers but it takes a lot of consideration to safely bolts routes.

When I learned to bolt, I read everything I could on the topic. I went to an 'out of the way' rock face and placed a bunch of practice bolts. Then my first season I used Jay and Leo as mentors to make sure I knew what I was doing. Then the next season I began bolting by myself.

Phil had mentioned to me about possibly teaching a 'bolting clinic' with the new climbing club. I would certainly be willing to do that, I just want to keep our climbing community safe.

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Manuels Trail Clean-up

Phil has informed me that the Climbing Club has organized a trail clean-up for April 14, 2012. I am very glad that they have chosen to do this out in Manuels. They are going to thin out the over grown area's, remove deadfalls and improve the newer trails to areas you may not have seen yet. I hope to be there but at this point I can't be sure.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Endurance: Week 1

Gym workout:

Solid warm-up.

Attempt project.

400 feet of vertical climbing.

Home Work-out:

Warmup- 10 sit-ups, 10 push-ups and 5 pull-ups. 3 sets in rapid succession.

Jugs: 5 pull-ups x 3 sets.
30 second deadhang on jugs.
3 finger pocket: 3 pull-ups x 3 sets
15 second deadhang x 2 sets
2 finger pockets: 2 pull-ups x 3 sets
10 second deadhand x 3 sets.

10 second L-hang (bentarm hangswith legs up) x 3

Hanging Intervals-
3 finger pocket: 15 seconds on then 15 seconds off x 8 sets
2 minute rest
Slopers- 15 seconds on then 15 seconds off x 8 sets
2 minute rest
Jugs- 15 seconds on then 15 seconds off x 8 sets.

Cool down

Friday, March 16, 2012


Well it is about that time of the year. Just a few short months until climbing season. This is when I figure I should get in shape.

Leo runs a fantastic adult training group through the gym on Sunday nights. I have taken part every year accept this year. Maybe I am lazy or the planets just didn't line up. I have had 2 major issues with the training schedule in the past. First it is geared toward a climbing competition in April ( Wallnuts website for it). I am not really into climbing in competitions (too old and I just don't care how I climb compared to others). Also, the sessions is aim to peak in April. My climbing season doesn't start until May or June. Hell, I am already back to being in shitty shape by then.

My second issue is that I just don't have time. Most training schedules are aimed at the young. They haves hours to spend doing laps at the gym. They can take a 20 to 30 minute rest between exercises. I am lucky if I can find 60 minutes to workout.

So here is the deal...if you are foolish enough to read my blog about training, I will outline a training schedule. This is geared towards people like my training partners. We only get to the gym once or twice per week and we have only limited gear at home. I figure a short workout at home is better than a kick in the ass.

My intension is to blog the basics of the workouts for the week. I am going to follow the good words of Eric Horst and Leo van Ulden. We will go through 3 macrocycles: endurance, power and power-endurance. Aside from this, you are responsible for getting 3 aerobic sessions per week and 2 antagonist sessions per week. The aerobic session should be at 30 minutes, what ever the exercise. Antagonist exercises should be chest, shoulders and tricepts. Again a 30 minute workout to hit all three muscle groups would be good. I will spell out the climbing workouts only. This is primarily for my climbing partners but you can follow if you want.

I will outline one gym workout and one home workout each week. You have to make sure you are well warmed up before starting the session. I will assume that you have at home a hangboard and several light dumbbells. Ideally you should be training 4 times per week. Minimum would be two times per week. We will do 3 weeks endurance, 3 weeks power and 3 weeks power endurance. This will bring us to mid May and hopefully climbing season. Please watch for weekly workouts.