Sunday, September 30, 2007

Ohh the Gunks!

My trip to the Gunks in March was an awesome way to start the season. I wonder where I will go next year.

Fading Season

The days are getting shorter and a fair bit colder. I think there may only a couple of outdoor days for me left this year. I guess it is time to change gears...start training for next year!!!!

What happens to me each year is a paradox. In train all winter and try to get strong. The outdoor season begins and I start developing routes and working on trad, cklimbing well below my redpoint level. As the summer goes on I get weaker. Now in late September I feel like I can't climb 5.6.

I haven't climbed at all in two weeks so now is a good as any time to start training again.

Bob and I follow a program which I have outlined before, it works! I went up 3 letter grades in one year, 5 grades in two years. This year I am thinking about posting the schedule as we are doing it. If you are interested please leave a comment.


Saturday, September 15, 2007

Two Onsight First Ascents

We had a beautiful morning today. Bob, Peter, Tim and myself went out to Manuels for some climbing. Bob and show the boys around a little bit, established routes and lots of future potential. Then we roped up.

Peter was sporting a hangover so the lead went to Tim. He led Ankle Biter and thought it was awesome!!!! "Tons of hands and feet. Solid rock and all kinds of placement opportunities."

While he was doing that, I was curious about a short line I spied around the corner from Ankle Biter. I hopped on the sharp end and climbed a 25 foot crack (Onsight 5.7ish). I gained a ledge that was overgrown with shrubs. I built an anchor and was going to belay Bob up. Once on anchor, I could see a line on the upper face that was begging to be climbed...easy ground! This belay ledge also happens to be at the top of a ramp that can we scrambled up.

From here, Bob belayed me from the ledge with one cam as a bottom anchor. I started climbing this "easy ground" to find that my first descent placement (OO C3) was about 25 feet from Bob. From here the climb got more vertical (5.6ish) and I was able to place a nut and a couple of cams. From there it was very easy scramble to the top (5.3ish).

My first onsight FA! Arborist 5.7 can be done as a single pitch. The first crack can be avoided by going up the ramp climbing the last 2/3 at about 5.5 or 5.6.

After Tim led Ankle biter, he roped up to try out Noobie Squeeze. Peter had something else in mind for Tim. On Peters rap off Ankle Biter, he was checking out a bulging feature between the two established lines. Once Tim gain the ground just under the bulge, Peter started heckling Tim to go up the bulge. After sussing out the line for a bit, Tim went onsight over the right of the bulge and back up to the anchors on Noobie Squeeze.

Peer Pressure 5.8 (grade needs to be confirmed by Tim) was a big first for Tim. It was his first FA as well as a first Onsight FA.

Tim goes back to Ireland on Tuesday and Peter heads back to Halifax in 10 days. I would like to thank the both of them fro coming out and having a great day.

Monday, September 10, 2007

Spankies Left Side

This is a fairly good over view of the left side of Spankies Playground.
1. Toil and Trouble -5.11a
2. Taming of the Shrew -5.10b
3. Much Ado About Nothing -5.9
4. Twelth Night -5.10a
5. Cuckold -5.10a
6. Even Tide -5.7

Sunday, September 09, 2007

Bob TRing Much Ado About Nothing -5.9

This is a nice route but it is a little run out. Solid 5.9 but with out beta I found myself of route. I guess I rushing.

Noel on Twelth Night 5.10a

Saw a nice trad line with a couple of bolts further up. The bottom was nice easy climbing to the first bolt. Kinda run out between bolts and then not real nice after the bolt.
I wimped out and stick clipped the anchors from the second bolt.
If I would have stayed more right, it would have been more consistent.

Kim Climbing "Even Tide" 5.7

Kim, Bob and Myself were a Spankies today (at sunrise). Beatiful morning.

Saturday, September 08, 2007

Cemetery Face

Access: Drive west on Portugal Cove Road past Windsor Lake. Enter Portugal Cove and pass Indian Meal Line and Bauline Line roads. Look for Anglican Cemetery Road on the right. There is a pink house on the corner.
Follow this road up a steep hill and stay left at the fork in the road. The road turns to dirt by the last house. Follow the dirt road for 100 – 150 meters. There is a pull out on the left side of the road directly across from the face.
There is a path directly across from the pull out that goes to the base.
(Blue=pullout; Green=Face; Yellow=Slab)

Routes; Below is a picture of the face from the pull out. The top of the climbs can be reached by climbing the ramp at the left side of the face (double ended arrow). Above the first two climbs are bolts to secure yourself as you clip the anchors. The anchor for the 3rd and 4th routes can be gained by carefully gaining the edge of the face.

1. Delayed Gratification 5.10a. Three bolts plus anchors.
2. Grateful Dead 5.10c. 4 Bolts plus anchors.
3. Shallow Grave 5.8. 4 bolts plus anchors.
4. Shrouded 5.7
Trad plus anchors (shared with Shallow Grave).

Tuesday, September 04, 2007

Grateful Dead 5.10c

Today was the day, I sent Grateful Dead. Bob and I were out this morning. I spent some time working the top section, took a rest and then did the route. It felt so good!

I read an article on red pointing a while back. It basically discussed working a route from the top down. When working a route, most of us work to get the crux and then try to send. You figure the crux but are usually so spent, the rest of the route seems harder than it should.

The sequence after the crux should be wired before the red point attempt. Once wired, then figure out how to enter it after you have finished the crux, and then the crux. In essence, the route is broken down into small sections and you learn them from the top down, one at a time. The end result, you are most familiar with the end of the climb. On your red point attempt went you are pumped after the crux, it should be much easier knowing exactly how to finish the route off.