Tuesday, June 19, 2007

The two lines.

These are the two lines Bob and I were working on. Bob is on a 'mock' lead on the right side (two ropes going up). The line I am working is on the left.
It starts with the crescent shaped crack and follows into the dihedral above.
We are looking for brave soles to come climb/clean.

Serious Dude!

Bob plugging gear.

Sunday past, Bob and I were at Manuels cleaning and prepping 2 lines. This is Bob 'mock' leading his line, checking placements. This is the same route he broke his ankle on last May.
Guess what he is going to call it when he sends it!?!

Sunday, June 17, 2007

New Face in Manuels

Bob has been talking about this face for over a year now. This is the very face he broke his ankle on last year. I wondered about his enthusiasm until I got there earlier this month. It has the kind of territory both of us have been looking for... long easy trad.

We have cleaned two lines, a 5.4 and a 5.6, both about 100 feet.

Tuesday, June 05, 2007

Delayed Gratification 5.10a

Well I finally did it. The rain managed to stop long enough for the face to dry. Bob and I were out this morning and the route fell! I have been waiting about two weeks to send it but our spring weather kept me off it.

The face is in Portugal Cove at the top of Anglican Cemetery Road. The road turns to dirt and leads to Blast Hole Ponds. The face is about 200 meters in from the road and there is a pull out immediately across from the face. I have cut a path through the bush to the base. Gratification starts about 5 meters from the left side arete. There are 3 bolts plus 2 bolts for top anchors. It is about 25 feet high.

The top is easily access by climbing a 5.1 ramp up the left side. Above Gratifications the are two bolts near the edge. One of these can be clipped with a daisy in order to reach the top anchors.

The Anglican Cemetery Face seems a mouth full so I'll just call it the Cemetery Face. In keeping with the morbid theme there is another face up the road that I call the Cold Slab. It has potential for easy trad and slab/face climbing.

A second set of top bolts have been placed to the right of the Cemetery Face. These are above a trad line and a future sport route. The trad line has not been sent yet so please don't lead it. I will post when it goes down (should be soon).

Saturday, June 02, 2007

Cool Little Face

I have been curious about a small face for a number of years now. I have hiked by it a number of times, in fact you can drive to the base of it. This spring I solo top roped it and I am quite happy with it. It is slightly over hanging (like Bloodbath) and about 25 feet high. It will probably yield 4 to 5 sport routes and one trad.

I placed a set of top bolts and top solo'd one route. It pretty fun and cruxie at the top. I bolted it about two weeks ago and have not been able to get on it because of the weather (see previous post). It has three bolts plus top anchors and will go at an easy 5.10.

There is another line just beside it that I have played on but haven't completed. Definite crux move half way up (ohh 10 feet!) with a cool undercling.

There is an off-vertical crack that moves up easier terrain. I haven't been on it (yet) but it will likely go at 5.8 or less.

There are a couple of smaller slab faces in the area that may also give up a couple of climbs. More details to come when I have it a little better developed.