Saturday, July 25, 2009

Hat' Shit 5.9 (+)

Beautiful morning out at Manuels today. Bob, Kim, Tim and myself got out. Bob and Tim climbed German Engineered while Kim and I went up Sick Like Dog. We did not go to the upper faces today for a number of reason, one being that I didn't have my hammer with me to sink any bolts.
I had been looking at a line that went straight down off the anchors of Sick Like Dog. Kim and I played on it a little bit when I decided to bolt it. "No Hammer!" I thought. Bob had mentioned that there was a hatchet in out 'cleaning box' at the base of the climbs. I decided to use the back of it as a hammer.
You ever wonder why you are not suppose to run with scissors? Well it just plain stupid. I think repelling and hammering bolts with the business end of an axe coming at your face may fit in the same category. Regardless, today I put up Hat' Shit. I think it is a 5.9 possibly a 5.10a. It is a bit harder than Tauch Auche but still have a hard time calling it a 10a. Kim thought it should be a 10a and I kinda agree with her but primarily because some moves are reachy.
It starts just left of Sick Like Dog up the middle of a short thin face. You gain a ledge for the second and third bolt. The middle face is thin with small feet and thin cracks for hands. Once over that face there is another ledge before a pretty cool lay back move to gain the upper portion which meets up with Sick Like Dog for the last bolt before the anchors.
I sent it and then Tim sent it as well. That was the nail in the coffin for a 5.9. Tim hasn't been climbing all year and well if he could sent it...... It couldn't be a 5.10a!
I almost called it Drunk Like Pig but I will save that for the next one. I TR'd a line between Tauch Auche and Hat' Shit. It will be pretty stiff and I think I will put a ceiling move at the top of it. It will probably go at a hard 10. That is for next time!

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