Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Hangover goes open.

I little bad news for me, possibly some good news for you.  Jan, Walter and myself were out climbing on Saturday.  We went to Noobie Squeeze area and once again I found myself drawn to the Hangover.  The Hangover is the small overhanging face to the right of Noobie Squeeze.  There is one route that sent called Distorted Perception at about 5.8.  I bolted two other routes with a common top anchor.  I was hoping to send the easier of the two (on left) on Saturday but no way.  I figure it is probably a 5.10-.  The route on the right is harder, more like a hard 5.10, possibly 5.11a.
The video shows Kaleb and Terry playing around on them before I had them bolted.  Trust me Terry, it is no 5.7!  Both of these routes are officially open!  If you climb them, you name them and you claim the FA.  Leave me a comment and some details about who was with you and what you think of the climb.

I repeat...The Hangover Face has two projects that are OPEN.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Baby Face: Not what I thought.

I went out to Baby Face yesterday to do some bolting.  Last year about this time, I put up Boston Mantle (5.9) while Bob started bolting another route.  We never got back to finish it.  Bob had placed to top anchors and one bolt.  I figure I would put in another couple of bolts and 'voila' another route.
Well, I put in though couple of bolts after hangdogging for awhile.  It was not a gimme.  If fact, it was kinda frustrating.  There is nothing special about it.  It will probably go at 5.9ish as well.  Since it gave me more grief than I bargained, I am going to call it Colic.
After that, I placed a couple of safety bolts to get access the top of 2 other routes.  If figured they would be quite easy and fit with the theme 'Baby Face'.  They both have short sections that significantly harder than the rest.  The only section that was consistently easy cut across the entire face.  Not good for a beginner.  Probably only put 4 routes on this section.
NOTE:  There are a couple of large loose blocks that I could not take down by hand.  One is in Colic.  Two others are on the left side of the face.  Climb with caution.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

No Partner for Tomorrow

I am going out to Baby Face to bolt some routes tomorrow.  I have no climbing partner confimred.  If someone is curious, I will be out bolting between 0930 and 1230.

Monday, May 14, 2012

New Season 2012

Hi Everyone.

I am BACK!  We have already had better weather than the entire summer last year and I hope it keeps going.  I managed to get outside in April!  I don't think I have ever done that.

I am going bolting on Wednesday and I am really looking forward to it.  I have a new drill, a 36volt Hilti. It is the big brother of the drill I have been using for the last 10 years.  I can't wait to use it.

There are many different routes I want to put up.  There are a couple on the Upper Face that I have my eye on.  I also want to finish bolting Baby Face.  That will be a great intro spot.

I will begin posting about my summer progress, lets hope I am active.