Sunday, August 28, 2011

Overhanging Face

There is this small overhanging face beside Noobie Squeeze. I haven't looked at it in years. I have grown as a developer since then. When I looked at it last week, I could see some very interesting potential lines. Bob and Kim were unavailable today. I was talking to Kaleb and Terry earlier in the week and they said they would be keen to check out some stuff.

We went up to this area today. I put in two top anchors over what look to be good lines. We spent the morning top roping them. I personally think that there are a couple of gems waiting to be bolted. I took some video of Kaleb and Terry trying out the lines.

Saturday, August 27, 2011

2 Climbers

I went out to Manuels today to get a couple of better shots of the climbing areas and to scout out some crags further in. I was taking a couple of shout when I noticed someone climbing on the Upper Face. It was about 3:30pm on Saturday Aug 27. Any idea who these people are?

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Nice Bulge 5.10b

Kim and I went up to Noobie Squeeze on Saturday with the intent on bolting my project. When we first got there, we scoped out a short overhung face which looks really promising for some hard terrain, something I have been looking for in Manuels. We briefly considered putting some bolts into that face but then decided to go with our original plan.

We climbed and cleaned Ankle Biter to get to the top bolts, which are also the top bolts of my project. As Kim lowered me off, I worked the crux moves to figure out the bolt placements. Then I bolted it (10 new bolts). As it turned out, I finished in time to give it a burn.
It starts on Noobie Squeeze using the first 3 bolts to get to ledge below the main part of the climb. Use long draws here to reduce rope drag. Once on the ledge, the Bulge bolts start about 15 feet right of the Noobie bolts. It follows the fairly vertical face climbing in the 5.8 range until it ends under the bulge. There are good feet and underclings to get a bit of a rest before going into the crux. The first moves require the use of slopers with hidden edges. Then find the crimp out left. The feet are hard to find because the bulge hides them. Use the left crimp and the right slopers to gain another crimp higher up. Pull through as your feet try to find a bit of purchase. Above the bulge it is a bit of moderate slab climbing (5.6ish) until you reach the top bolts.

Prior to working the route for the bolts, I would have considered the Crux to be 5.10d. I figured out a sequence that made me re-evaluate the grade. I sent to on my first try. I felt really stoked about that. I would appreciate feedback on what other climbers think the grade of this climb may be.

Friday, August 19, 2011

Bob at Rumney

It been over a year since Bob and I went to Rumney. Great climbing spot for all grades.

The route just behind Bob to his right (you can see a bolt just in front of his head) was a 5.3. It was very vertical but it climbed like a ladder.

I hope I can get a few people on a road trip next spring.

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Next Project

I have my next project!!! Kim and I went out to Noobie Squeeze today. Both Noobie Squeeze and Ankle Biter climb well with the bolts (much better than before). Kim reminded me why I called the climb Noobie Squeeze. The first time she came out with us (5 years ago) she TR'd Noobie and kinda got stuck at the top of the corner section where it narrows. Today she made simple work of it. When she came down, Kim said that even after all the developing we have done in Manuels, Noobie is still her favourite climb (cool).
Between Noobie and Ankle Biter is this large bulging section of rock. I TR'd it today. It is a pretty thin sequence with little feet and slopers for hands. I think it will go at a hard 5.10. Next time out I will have to figure out the bolts but it may take some work to send...a project!

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Flat Rock Fest

Kaleb has arranged the "Flat Rock Fest" for tomorrow Aug 14th. It will be a day to go down climbing at Flat Rock. Kaleb is sponsored by a rock shoe company (Evolve) and will have a couple of runs of different shoes for people to try out. It sounds like he is trying to get a BBQ down there and everything. It will be good fun for those who go down.

I hope to be out at Manuels putting up a route or two.

Friday, August 05, 2011

Rainy Weekend

Another rainy weekend! Everybody at work is talking about the summer that wasn't. Apparently the summer of 1993 was just like this. I could bitch and complain for hours about the weather. I have even been a bit tempted to look for a job on the mainland. But regardless, it looks like no climbing for me again this weekend.

Kaleb is going to Vancouver next spring for training in the culinary arts. Cooking has been a hobby of mine for years so I am a little envious. I saw an apron he might like while on my travels recently. Cheers man!