Friday, October 30, 2009

Viagra II

I was looking for a picture of an "old guy" to put up as the poster 'child' for the Viagra II. I came across this picture on His name is Fred Beckley. He began climbing in the 1930's. At the ripe age of 81, he is still leading 5.9 trad multipitch.
I hope that I might be an octogenarian rock climber myself one day. For now I can handle just being 'old'.
The other night I said I had to get a 'little something up' on the blog about the classic. For the rest of the night it was all about how I couldn't get it up! Enough said!

Viagra II. My house (36 Cheyne Drive). Friday November 6, 2009. 7pm to 11pm. Please bring crash pads as I only have one. There will be a good variety of problems. The are several set by Matt and Kaleb. This should increase the challenge for you elite #@%$#'s. There is a problem that Kaleb says no-one will be able to do. I have yet to figure out a prize but I am thinking about a pot (5 buck a person winner take all). I have no idea how to get women to climb. Last year there were a good number showing but no one climbing. I'm thinking a wall rotation or something. I am open to idea's.
Trevor said he may bring some clips to watch after the throw down. Leo may have some pics of Squamish and I have some pics from the Gunks. A bit of a show after.

Directions: Newfoundland Drive-Carrick-Rt to Regent St-2nd Lt to Cheyne Dr.- Last house on Rt before the hill.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

WOD Oct 27

2 laps silent feet
2 laps of perfect climbing
8 minute intervals of creshedo climbing.
(eg. 5.5s, 5.7, 5.9 ect.)
Interval should be a warm down.
One set of Enduro-hangs.

Protein 20 gms Stat!

Saturday, October 24, 2009


I am toying with the idea of going to Rumney, NH in June 2010. Awesome sport climbing area.
Have a look!


Training isn't falling into place really well. I have gotten too busy with some other stuff. I have been climbing more in the last 2 weeks than I have in the last 2 months. It is good to be back. I am only climbing about twice a week.
Here is a challenge for ya. After fully warming up with some climbing, get yourself to a hangboard. You are about to do a nasty endurance/power endurance exercise.

On the jugs
Hang for 30 sec then drop.
Rest 30 sec.
Hang 30 sec.
Rest 30 sec.
Repeat for 10 min total.

1. If you can't stay on for 30 sec rest for the remainder of the minute (ie 20 sec/ on 40 rest).
2. If 30 sec on/30 off is too easy, increase the on time (40 sec on/ 20 sec off).

Do this once or twice per week at the end of a training session. To push endurance, increase the total time (15 min). To push power endurance, increase the on time or add weight with your hangs (ankle weights or hangs weight plates from your hips).

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

A "Stiffy" in the Air

I have been feeling a little limp lately. Just not as hard (core) as I used to be. I need to get a little invigorated. I guess it is time for the Viagra Classic. It will be in early November, just gotta get the dates 'solid'.
Prep is already under way. This is a shot of Kaleb finishing off a problem he set tonight. Matt was over last week putting up something that made me feel entirely inadequate.
I think it will be a bit sicker than last year.

Sunday, October 11, 2009


Periodization is training in cycles or periods. Each cycle concentrates on one aspect training. Typically the cycles go thru endurance, strength and power endurance. Each cycle is done for a few weeks. This can vary depending on your goals. In general, I like 3 week blocks.
Endurance is a good place to start. It eases you back into a new cycle. It conditions your tendons and ligaments for the strain of climbing. Muscles that may have been on vacation for a while are gently put back to work. Mentally it is a good place to start as well. You are not beating yourself up for not climbing as hard as you did at the end of your last cycle (for me about 6 months ago).
There are a number a ways to train for endurance. It all has to do with being on the wall for a long time. It can be intervals of 10 minutes or biner carrier...what ever. When training endurance, try NOT to get that deep burning pain (ie- when you are flaming at the end of a route).

Work-out of the Day (WoD)
Pitches- Starting with the Lowest grade, climb as many different routes in ascending difficulty as possible in a given time (90 min). If you begin to burn start working back down the grades. If you want, post the number of pitches you got in in 90 minutes (assuming you are swapping pitches with a partner).

Friday, October 09, 2009

End of a Season

Well I think that is it! Wet cold weather is stopping me from getting out anymore. I was a good season. 7 routes and the development of the German Face. Unfortunately I don't have a lot to blog about.
We are going to start training again to see if we can get back some lost strength. Typically we train on Sunday and Wednesday nights. We are going to do some periodization training, similar to what Leo does with the adult climbing club (no it is not a swingers club for climbers). I am thinking about posting the workouts we do.
The Viagra Classic is in the cross hairs again. Matt was over the other night to put up a couple of routes. I am hoping to get Caleb over at some point. We will probably fill in the gaps. I figure it will go at the end of Oct or early Nov.

Monday, October 05, 2009

3 Point Equallette

When I published the first item on an equallette, I had a lot of questions how it worked. People couldn't figure it out from the pictures. I hope this little clip helps.

Sunday, October 04, 2009

Placing bolts

Found this video on YouTube. It is a very good discussion on how to place bolts. It does not cover glue-in bolts.

Thursday, October 01, 2009

2 Point Equallette

A quick clip on a 2 point equallette.