Tuesday, July 21, 2009

The LSTB Program Spanking (5.11a)

The LSTB Program was a route I helped Leo bolt a couple of years ago. I never did climb it cleanly, I escaped right to the corner.
Today, against better judgement, I decided to jump on LSTB. I got to the crux and got shut down. The crux is beside the second bolt which is at about the level of Taks foot but in line with the rope. There is a crappy left handed pinch, a little nubbin for a right hand and very poor feet. The move required is to get a finger ledge about 2 feet above the pinch. Once to the ledge, there is a huge crack (Tak is looking into it) to gain the upper half of the climb...home free. I had a couple of wide expansion cams for the crack. After, ohh, 30 tries I lowered off defeated.
Jan stepped up to the plate and took off. Jan managed to get the finger ledge and then I found out that the ledge is really a mysterious sloper-fest and the crack wouldn't take anything bigger than a .75 Camolot. Jan managed to make the top making it look easy (bastard).
But in hind sight, what the hell was I thinking jumping on a 5.11a, I deserved a good ass kicking.

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