Saturday, October 27, 2007

Jay at Wilderness Area

This is a shot of Jay climbing at the Avalon Wilderness Area. He talks about this area like it was his favorite child. I look forward to getting out there some day.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Endurance Night

Tonight is another endurance night. Warm up well (4 laps).

Then do 10 minute intervals of harder Hard enough that if you were to downclimb you couldn't stay on for all 10 min. So 1 level below onsight. Climb and lower off. See how many laps you can get in 10 minutes.

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Endurance WOD- Bouldering

Light bouldering, standard warmup or running for 10 to 15 min.

Traverse times three.
Choose a section bouldering wall that is easy or flat (about 20 feet worth). Place a hanger at each side. Clip 3 to 5 draws on one side. Start at the other side, traverse boulder to the draws, take one and clip it to your harness (or shirt), carry it to the other side and clip it to the empty hanger. Stay on the wall and traverse/ferry the rest of the draws over. That is one set. DO three sets. Rest about 3 to 5 min between sets.

Hangboard enduro
Unweight your feet with a chair under a hangboard or small foot holds. Grab the jugs of the board. Move the right hand down to a challanging hold, hold for two seconds and bring it back to the jug. Move the left hand down to the same type of hold, hold it for two seconds and then back up. Stay on the board for 30 to 60 seconds, mixing up the holds you move to off the jugs. Rest for the same period of time that you are on.

Do a set of either rock rings or hangboard.

Cool down with some easy bouldering.

Monday, October 15, 2007

20 minutes from Hell

Work out for tuesday

Sport specific exersice (no actual climbing)

Crossfit warm-up
15 squat
10 situp
10 pullup
10 pushup
**Do circuit 3 times

Tabata day

A tabata is a cycle of exersice aimed at improving endurance or power endurance, depending on the weight chosen. The cycle goes as follows:

Choose a light weight for the exersice. The exersice should be done quickly but with control. Start by doing the exersice for 20secs (work phase) and then rest for 10 secs(rest). This would be one cycle. Enter directly into the next cycle and do a total of 8 cycles (should take 4 min). If you can't complete a cycle with good form then the weight is too heavy. Trust me, START LIGHT! Rest for two minutes then start the next exersice.

Tabata this;
1. Jumping pullups (jump slightly at the start of the pullup to unload your weight).
8 cycles then 2 minute rest.
2. Bentover row.
8 cycles then 2 minute rest.
3. Bicept curls
8 cycles then 2 minute rest.
4. Wrist curls.
8 cycles.

Now that you are warmed up, time for enduro-hangs. Use jugs on the hangboard/rock rings or chin bar. Dead hang for 1 minute. Rest one minute. Repeat times 5 total. If this is too easy for you, try bent arm hangs.

Sunday, October 14, 2007


Work out for monday

Warmup with 15 minute run or
15 squats
10 situps
10 pullups
10 chest dips (or 15 pushups)
* 3 sets

1. Bench press; First set- 10 to 12 reps
Second set (same wt)- controled presses for 30 sec then rest for 30 seconds- 5 cycles.

2a. Incline press; 3 sets of 8 to 10
2b. Flat Flye; 3 sets of 8 to 10
*Superset these (ie 2a then 2b then rest and repeat).

3 Dip/Leg Raise; 3 sets of max
(Do a chest dip then leg raise= 1 rep)

4a* Shoulder press; 3 sets 10/8/6
4b Bent over flye; 3 sets 10/8/6

5a* Tricept dips; 3 sets 10 to 12
5b Tricepts extensions; 3 sets 10 to 12

It's Training Time

Well it is time to start training again. I have had a fair bit of time off and I am itchnig to get back to it.

First Cycle: Endurance x 3 weeks

Climb four times per week. Repeat as many interval in your session as time will allow.

Work out one- 10 minute interval of easy climbing. Climb at least 2 grades below your onsight level. Climb the specific route and downclimb all holds. Don't touch the floor...stay on the wall for the whole 10 minutes.

Work out two- 10 minute intervals. 1 grade below onsight. Climb and lower for 10 minutes.

Work out three- 10 minutes or exhaustion. 2 grades below onsight sport route. Climb to second clip then lower. Climb to third and lower. Forth and lower until you hit anchors then repeat sequence. For harder challange, clip with the left hand on first set and right hand on second.