Climbing last year in the Gunks was great. I did a lot training to get ready for that trip. Unfortunately I trained the wrong thing. I was lapping mid 5.10's and flashing the odd 5.11. The entire time in the Gunks I don't think I did a climb over a 5.8. The mental muscle is what I needed to train. This is a picture of leading the second pitch of Betty, a Gunks classic. This step was over a void of 150 feet. Lots of stemming and little roofs. Coming up under the roofs was intense. After 2 pitches I was at the top. My first multi-pitch lead. I was scared and stoked at the same time. What made it so hard for me was the mental game. It was only a 5.3.
Leading on trad, unfamiliar rock, never having lead above 50 feet, the uncanny exposure...all these things made it intense. My only regret is that I never pushed my physical limits. I think it would be nice to dial down the mental intensity and push the physical limits for the next trip. Get into some single pitch sport climbing. It is a nice goal for a winter of climbing indoors.
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