Friday, November 30, 2007

Sunday Night Course

Leo is talking about starting a sunday night training course for adults. It will focus on a periodization training schedule, similar to what I do now. It will be from 8pm to 11 or 12pm and will include training sessions, stretching and sport specific training. I think it will be a great motivator.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

For Bill

An early morning at Spankies Playground. Ohh to train for next summer.

Good luck to Bill who will be soon climbing at Red Rocks...lucky guy.

Power Period- 3 weeks

You should be climbing hard 3 times per week, 1 to 2 sport specific exercise work out per week and 2 antagonistic work out per week.

Examples of power work outs;
  1. Pyramids- Choose a hard red point. Climb first three moves, rest less tan 30 sec, climb first 4, rest, first 6, rest first 8 (or top out), rest the first 4. That would be one set. An alternative would be to use the same route but do the last 3 moves, then last 4, last6, then from base.
  2. Four by fours- Find 2 routes on the same wall. One should be a hard red point and the other 2 grades below. Climb the hard then immediately the easy (this is a 'rest') , back to the hard with out rest and finish on the easy.
  3. Bouldering
  4. HIT strips
  5. System training
  6. Hangboards.
  7. Campus board.

Sport specific training would include weighted pull ups, bentover row, dumbell row, bicept curls, core exercises, wrist curls. Reps should be in the 4 to 6 range except wrist curls which should be 10 to 15. Do 3 to 5 sets of each. Finish off with a hangboard or rock rings routine.

Antagonist training would include bench press, push ups, dips, tricept curls, shoulder press, lateral raise ect. Reps should be 8 to 10 with 3 sets.

If you are above ideal body weight (pinch more than an inch) diet smartly and run 30 min 3 times per week...I am in this group.

100th Post

Well, my apologies for not posting recently but I was away in Greece. I didn't go climbing but it would definitely be an AWESOME destination in the future.

This is my 100th post to the blog over roughly a 2 year period.