Saturday, October 07, 2006


If you are under the age 15 this post ain't for you. Periodization is a training technique used to improve overall climbing. Kids under 15 just need to climb like crazy because your body doesn't really get any benefit for this type of training. Look at all the pre-teen and teen climbers hitting 5.13 and 5.14 after only a couple years of climbing...You don't need it.

For the rest of us it is a battle, and then like myself... A war. I have read a lot on training and it boils down to some very simple ideas. Most of us don't train, we just climb. We work a project after a couple of warm-up laps, flail for a while and go home. This is fun but it is not training. We plateau soon enough, I was stuck at 5.10a for 2 years. To become better climbers we must work weaknesses and become systematic in our approach and this is where periodization comes in.

Periodization is training in block intervals on one type of climbing; endurance, power or power-endurance. Endurance is very important on longer route but also with changing styles of climbing. It takes much longer to climb a sport route than top rope and likewise longer still to climb trad. Power is important for bouldering and sport climbing. Power is called on to get that one HARD move. Power-endurance is needed when you feel that deep down nasty pump just as you are trying to make that next clip. It is being able able to climb for a period at near maximum power. We should train these individually to get the most benefit.

Bob and I have been following a 4-3-2-1 periodization schedule and I have seen good results (Over the last 12 months I have gone from climbing 5.10a to 5.10d and working my first 5.11.). It works like this;

  1. 4 weeks of endurance. Easy climbing at 2 grads below your onsite grade. Continuous climbing (up and down climb without touching the floor) for 10 minutes then switch belay. Some nights we would climb slightly harder routes but do laps (ie climb up and lower off). You should not feel a heavy burn doing this, if you are get on something easier.
  2. 3 weeks of power. 10 minute intervals of redpoint climbing or bouldering. One routine we use is to climb the first 3 moves then lower off, then 4 moves, lower, 6 moves lower, top out or high point and lower and then the first three again.
  3. 2 weeks of power-endurance. Here you want to chase the burn. You want that nasty deep burn every time you get on the wall. If you get the burn in less than 5 minutes...Too hard. If you last more than 10 minutes...Not hard enough.
  4. 1 week of rest. No climbing just allow yourself to heal before the next series.

Very impotent tips;

  1. Always warm up with easy laps. If you don't warm up well you are much more likely to get injured.
  2. Drink water while you are working out. Dehydration stops the body from performing well.
  3. Have a protein shake with in 30 minutes of the end of the workout. You body needs the protein substrate to build muscle and it is most effective when you are pumped.
  4. Take you vitamins. Vit C helps rebuild proteins (ie muscle) and a multi-vit will make sure you aren't missing any important things.
  5. If you don't have power you have nothing to endure! You should be be doing 3 sets of pull-up daily 5 times per week. Aim for 10 to 12 reps. If you can't get 10, do as many as possible and do the rest as negatives. If 10 is easy, do 5 to 10 Frenchies (Pull-up and hold at the top for 3-5sec then lower, pull up and then lower to 90 degrees, lock off and hold for 3-5 sec then lower and pull up and lower to 125 degree, lock off and hold for 3-5sec...that is one rep).
  6. Power is related to your strength to weight ratio. The heavier you are the worse it is. It is easier to loose weight than to gain strength. Cut out junk food, cut out between meal snacks. If you eat a reasonable diet and you are still not at your ideal climbing weight start running. 20 to 30 minutes 3-4 times per week.
  7. Train antagonistic muscles 2 times per week. These are the opposing muscles which you use for climbing. Injure can occur if a balance is not kept. A basic chest, tricept and shoulder workout will do fine. (Push-up or bench press 3 set of 10, tricept dips or extensions 3 sets of 10, shoulder press or handstand press 3 sets of 10 or max)
  8. Train core 2 times per week.
  9. With the above periodization, climb 4 times per week with endurance and power-endurance, 3 times per week with power (Needs more recovery).

SO...over all you should be climbing 4 times per week, running 3 times per week, working antagonistic and core muscles 2 times per week and following a reasonable diet. Post a comment if you have any questions or comments.


Saturday, September 23, 2006

Nubbin and others

Bob, Tak and I were top roping 'Nubbin' when I took this picture. Tak is climbing and Bob is belaying/bottom anchor. The top rope anchor is set on two bolts which can be reached by carefully traversing right from the Iron Hand Rap Anchor. The second rope is over Candy. I almost have seven routes in this picture.

1 Farewell to Arms 5.11b A difficult trad climb I have never been on.

2 Nubbin 5.10c Trad climb with one bolt protecting the crux.

3 LSTD Project 5.11a/b Just put up this year. Three bolts and a piece of pro.

4 A Few Tense Moments 5.8 Trad climb in the corner. You can exit to the top of Nubbin.

5 Piece of Shit 5.10c/d Jays un-named route. I slashed my finger on it the last time I tried it.

6 Candy 5.7 Easiest sport line on main face. This route allows easy access to the top of Iron Hand and all the above routes.

7 Ivan's Corner 5.6 One of the original trad lines that has not seen much activity.

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

Hakuna Matata 5.9

Hakuna Matata is a nice moderate sport climb. The first bolt is at shoulder height. This is because of the shifting boulders at the base. It used to be at about 10 feet. It moves up the obvious corner to the roof where it gets interesting.

The 4th bolt is well placed just above the roof. There is a long reach to the first horizontal crack. It feels quite airy because you are just over the roof. Once into the cracks it is quite straight forward. There is a nice crack for gear (blue dot). The anchors are just above.

To the left in the corner is Ivan's Corner (5.7). This is a old trad climb. It shares the same start as Candy with the first bolt of Candy in green.

Saturday, September 09, 2006

Iron Hand 5.9+

Iron Hand is one of the earliest established route on Main Face rated as 5.9+. It climbs like a 5.10a/b.

Start in the corner with a mantle on the first ledge. Reach into the corner and work up to the ledge under the ceiling. Traverse left then follow a series of lay backs up to the anchors.

The anchors at the top of Iron Hand were replaced this summer by Jason Wall. Two lengths of SS chain are on bolts and are much better than what was once there.

The top of Iron Hand is easily accessed by walking over the ledge from the top of Candy.

Candy 5.7

Candy is the route in black on the right. It starts in the corner and travels left after the 1st bolt. Just above the 2nd bolt is a nice jug which leads into the horizontal gear crack. Top out after clipping the 3rd bolt onto a nice wide ledge where the top bolts are placed.

The route beside it is un-named and is about 5.10c/d. Jay has the first ascent and therefore the right to name it. I asked him what he was going to call it and his reply was "What...that piece of shit!?!" So by default I guess the name is... Piece of Shit.

I like the Piece of Shit. You start under a small ceiling and reach the first large horizontal ledge. Then you smear both feet onto the bottom of the face and reach for a crimp with the right. With no feet and one crimp you reach left for a vertical crack. This allows you to reposition your feet and gain the next horizontal crack. There are 2 bolts and a gear placement. We are going to place a 3rd bolt above the gear placement to primarily keep the route to the left side of the face. Currently people are just using the last bolt on Candy which is actually off route. Try out the piece of shit for yourself.

Friday, September 08, 2006

Morning Climb

Bob and I are going climbing tomorrow at 6:00am at Main Face (Sat).

Monday, September 04, 2006

Breakfast Club.

First time ever that Bob and I have been on MainFace at 6:00 am and two other climbers show up. Jeff and Matt crawled out of bed so they could climb before Jeff went to work at 12:00. Good on ya guys.

I revisited an old nemesis, Iron Hand. It is a trad climb with a rap anchor at the top. I first climbed it back in 1995 and I haven't been back since. It is graded as a 5.9+ but it feels harder (5.10a/b). You climb up a corner below a roof that requires a mantle and then a tricky reach for a pocket. When you get the pocket, you move to a horizontal crack and work it to the left from under the roof and follow a crack to the top. It feels fairly exposed and there is a good swing it you fall low while on TR.

The feet on the traverse are my problem. I have nothing to stand on so I got worked just hanging on to that ledge. It may be called Iron Hand but at the end it felt more like lead.

TR access is quite easy once you have climbed Candy.

Sunday, September 03, 2006

Stolen Gear

Wed Aug 30, 2006...some #$@% stole my climbing gear out of my car trunk. Things that are missing include
  1. Bluewater 60 meter 10.3mm climbing rope (only 3 months old).
  2. An array of quick draws (14 all together) DB Positron.
  3. Orange Mad Rock Climbing Shoe's
  4. Rock Empire Harness.
  5. Arc'terx Chalk bag
  6. Set of DB Camalots (.3 thru to 3)\
  7. 6 Petzl locking D's
  8. Various slings and 2 cordalettes.
  9. 60L pack

*As you can tell, it was a major loss!!!!

The #$@^%$ idiots who took this stuff probably have no idea what it is for and just tossed it. If they are stupid enough to either use it or try to sell it, I am hoping someone spots my gear. It is all marked with purple ID tape. If it is seen, get a hold of me thru Wallnuts Climbing Gym.



Strange Summer

It has been a strange summer. I thought this summer was going to be HUGE for climbing but quite the opposite. Where is everyone?!? A lot of the regulars are well not regular. In fact they are absent.

For me personally it has been great. I have been out more this year than ever before and I have learned a lot. My secret...mornings!!!

I climb 2x per week in the wee hours of the morning. I usually meet Bob at Tim's at 5:00am on Tuesdays. Same on the weekend, either Sat or Sun, depending on whats going on at home. It is absolutely Awesome being down on MainFace when the sun is rising.

I am also surprised by who is willing to climbing with us at that hour. Jason, Leo and Tak have all come out with us at the crack of dawn.

Next Post...Candy

Time for a Change

I apologize to all those who had great hopes for the Avalon Climbing Club but the interest just wasn't there. I hope someone else may pick up the torch in future but I just don't have the time.

I will continue to publish my own climbing experiences and interesting pictures but nothing in regards to a "club".


Sunday, July 23, 2006

Thursday July 27 Bouldering Session

Ok, ignore most of that last post, i've changed some of my plans and am going to do the thing this week.

I think the best bet would be to meet at wallnuts between 5:30 and 6:00 so we can leave there at 6:00 sharp ( this should allow people who work till 5:00 to come? does anybody have 9-5 jobs, i wish i did).

I'm thinking the marine lab as a first destination, it has a wide range of difficulty for problems as well as alot of problems in the v0-v3/4 range. Also it's a location that can be very difficult to figure out what problem is what on your own.

2nd destination will probably be flatrock and they I am thinking the Vacation Boulders for some barrens fun.

of course if there is a alot of disagreement those can be changed.

Um...anyway, hopefully enough people with cars will come that we can drive everyone out, if there is more room in cars than there is people than we can leave some cars at wallnuts and drop the owners bad there after to save on gas 'n' stuff.

So i guess thats about it, i hope to put a poster up in wallnuts soon for it.

also! i am in no way responsible for the safety of anyone attending. I'm just going climbing at a place and if anyone else wants to climb there at the same time that's up to them.

i am not a guide.

hope that covered everthing...Dave

Bouldering Delays

Sorry about not getting things off the ground for the weekly outdoor bouldering sessions yet.
I got a new job with strange hours and management are very lax with giving us our schedules so i've been unable to plan anything. I was hoping to be able to finally do it this week but i just got my schedule today and there doesn't seem to be any good time to do it. So... fingers crossed that sometime next week we'll be able to have our first session. I'm looking forward to it.

A Good Day

I had a really good day before it started raining. Jay and I were out at 9:00 am and the first thing we did were these three routes. I can't remember the name of the first route but it was about a 5.10c. The middle route it No Freebies (I think) rated at 5.10b. The third route is called Menage et Trois is also a mid 5.10.

The first one had a hard crux with an undercling and a crimp then reaching high for a jug. Menage et Trois was a lot of fun moving off the roof and had a lot of variations.

After those, Jay did Magie in fine style and I TR'd Yellow Fever, scarlet Fever and Sea Scape. I had only done Yellow Fever prior to today. 5 new routes for me. I am especially happy because this is the first year I have climbed beyond 5.10a outdoors.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

Top Anchor

I have bee meaning to post something on my top anchor for a while. I use a long length of 11mm static line (80 feet). A 10 foot length of 1 inch tubular webbing is over the 11mm line and placed in the center. A figure 8 on a bight creates the power point for the top anchor.

Each 'leg' of the 11mm line is attached to a single bomb proof anchor such as a bolt, large tree or a unified pro anchor. The webbing sheath protects the rope as it runs over a ledge, protects the knot from abrasion and provides redundancy at the power point.

This is my most frequently used piece of equipment outdoors. The static line is much tougher and resistant to abrasion than a dynamic rope. I find it faster and safer to set up top anchors. Most important...It is damn strong.

The original article suggested using a 50 foot length of line and 4 feet of webbing. I thought this may not be long enough for some of the anchor placements at Blood Bath and Prossers Rock. I was also concerned that less than 2 feet webbing to protect the rope over an edge might not be enough so I went with the lengths described above. 50 feet probably would have been fine. I have more than enough length for the anchors and I end up hauling around excessive rope.

The webbing could also be a bit shorter. The webbing sheath sides on the rope (above the figure 8) when you pull on it as in when your are lowering onto rappel or topping out.

This anchor system is excellent and is relatively easy to use. Remember, personal instruction is always better than something you have read off "the net". Ask people what they use and why.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Paging Don Keidick

"Paging Don Keidick" is the new 5.10b/c on Main Face towards the left end just before the waters edge. This route was bolted by Jason Wall in early June and the first ascent was by Leo VanUlden later that week.

Donkey Dick is a great 5.10 with 25-27 meters of climbing. It is well protected with 12 bolts plus top anchors. The opening moves are difficult and kind of bouldery. Then you traverse left over the edge of a ceiling to an arete. The left side is followed up on nice thin ledges and pulls for the first half. It is 5.9 to 5.10a moves on slightly positive terrain. Then the climb becomes vertical and the moves get harder.

Becareful...kamikaze seagulls live near by. One pair of climbers got seriously dive bombed as they approached the anchors.

This route has seen a good number of assents since it was established. Everyone agrees that it has great flow and sequence, logically and safely bolted and that it is an instant classic sport route.

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Topsail Head Bluff

Topsail Head Bluff over looks Topsail Head Beach. This is the first of two bluffs of about equal size. At first look it appears kind of choppy but the upper half may have some good sport lines. The bottom half may also be alright.

This shot is taken from the parking lot and it is very accessible. I hope to check it out next week.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

More new routes.

Main Face as seen several new routes go up over the last month. Jason has bolted new starts to at least 2 routes which were damaged by rock fall several years ago. He also put up the a new mid 5.10 sport. Leo made the first ascent in mid June and it has seen many repeats since. 12 bolts over 25 meters. That is one of my projects for the summer.

Leo and I have been eyeing 2 new routes towards Iron Hand Wall. One will be an easy 5.6 sport and the other in the 5.11 range.

Leo hopefully will be putting these routes in the new guide book. Still no word on when that may be finished.

A Blog!

Well it seems more like this is becoming my own personal blog!?! I haven't been in the gym regularly since May. There hasn't been anything to update on the board and everybody is too busy climbing.

SO...I will just carry on as if the Avalon Climbing Club was more than me posting on this Blog.
Other people have access to post to this blog so there may be more posts from people other than me.


Tuesday, June 27, 2006

South Coast Big Wall

This is picture of Devil's Bay on the South Coast of Newfoundland. It has attracted many big wall climbers from the North East United States as well as some locals. It is some of the best big wall climbing in North America and it is our own back yard. Because of how 'remote' it is and locations of other big walls, not many climbers travel here.

I have been told that there are countless other walls of similar size in the same area.


Monday, June 26, 2006


There are lines begging to be bolted and some retro-bolting is required. As previously mentioned, bolts don't come cheap and we would like to maintain routes with good equipment. We are thinking about having a fundraiser for the 'Bolt Fund'.

Plans are in the making but something like a guest speaker to give a slide show on climbing in Devils Bay, show a climbing film and have a silent auction.

Post any further ideas to the 'comments' section.


Thursday, June 22, 2006

New sport routes.

Main Face Wall at Flatrock is seeing some more development. A new line will soon be open which is being described as an "instant classic". It is thought to be in the mid 5.10 and is long and sustained.

First ascent, route name and location will be published when available.

And to mix the old with the new, new top anchor bolts will be placed at the top of some of the established easy trad climbs in the near future. This will make cleaning and escaping a lot easier but more importantly the bolts should make those climbs much more accessible.

Thursday, June 15, 2006

Bolt Fund

For a number of years, there has been a bolt fund to help cover the costs of developing new routes. It is a plastic container at the front desk of Wallnuts. Over the winter it has collected about 40$. This is great and thanks to all that have contributed.

FYI...glue-in bolts cost about 4$ each and the adhesive cost about 30$ per unit (covers 20 bolts).

A very active developer, Jason Wall (Jay) has spent a great deal of time prepping and cleaning some of the most recent lines. He has his eyes set on some new potentially great lines. If you think of it and can afford it, throw a bit of change into the bolt fund the next time you are at Wallnuts and help us get a few new lines up this summer.



Monday, June 12, 2006

Bob's Ankle Buster

Nole posted a quick note on my accident. I thought a full report was warranted.

The route I was on was a first ascent on easy trad of about 5.7-5.8 or less with a big sloping ledge with trees about 20' up. Sort of alternating slabby and vertical. I had rapped the route a few times and cleaned it a little, there was ample opportunity for pro and although there was some lichen it was not obscuring the holds and was easily brushed off. After we built a bolted anchor at the top and rapped down to check out the routes Darrell and I set up to climb a route each, I went first. The treed ledge made it hard to find the best place to start up to my chosen line from the ledge. At first I started way off to the right and had to retreat. The second start had me still right of the line I wanted so my route angeled to the left. I placed a 1.5" hex below the large ledge and on the ledge went left behind a tree - if I fell then I would have been on the other side of the tree and it would act like my second piece. From the ledge there was an 8' slabby section I put my real second piece at the top of this, a large nut. About 10' further up on the vertical section I put in a cam (blue Rock Empire #0.5?) with a full, length runner. From here on I planned to go straight up A little higher with my feet at the level of the cam I was on a good hold with my left foot, stemming for balance with my right, using my left hand on a sidepull, and my right hand was fiddling with biner full of nuts trying to get one to fit perfectly. When the "good" hold under my left foot broke off with a loud crack and I dropped straight down.

After a second or so of panic I caught my balance on the slabby section, looked up to see that the cam looked to be holding well and looked at my screaming ankle. The outside of the joint was swollen to the size of a softball and getting bigger. After a bit of shouting back and forth to clarify the situation, Darrell lowered me to the ground and came over to help with my ankle which was now the size of a small cantaloupe. I held up my leg with my hands behind my knee while Darrell taped my ankle, being careful not to tape on the pull loops of my shoes. We got into my high top hiking boots, tying them up as tight as possible and then taping them tighter.

With my ankle somewhat secured we now had to get back to the car. About 75m away was a rough path that would take us the half K or so to the car, between was steep 45 degree bushwacking. We had had to duck under deadfalls and push through alders on the way in, going out with a broken ankle was no fun at all. Darrell found a stick to use as a staff and provided a shoulder whenever I needed it. My main concern was speed. I was afraid the adrenaline would wear off leaving me useless.

The ER doctor gave me a half cast and told me I had broken my ankle on the inside, a large chip off the tibia, and badly sprained it on the outside. The orthopedic Dr. confirmed this three days later. If the doctors are right I should be walking in July and I hope to be climbing in August, I'de rather be cautious than hurt myself more.

After quite a bit of thought the only mistake I can think of was using a full length runner on the cam. It added four feet to my fall. I probably would not have hit the slab if I had clipped directly into the cam. I was worried about rope drag and wiggling the piece out but I could easily have downclimbed and lengthened the sling after putting in the next piece. Also if my reflexes were fast enough I might have pushed off a bit so I would slow down on the rope before swinging into the rock, but if they were that fast I could have grabbed a better hold and not fallen at all. Of course I might have noticed that the hold was suspect and not used it at all, I'm usually paranoid about that kind of thing so I think this was one of those that would have given no indication that it was about to give. I was standing on it for a minute or more before it gave.

I was climbing in a new area that I have been looking at for almost a year now. I've made several trips into it during which I've hiked in to a number of faces chosen and rapped the first routes and blazed the access trail. Beautiful feature rich granite with at least five faces that will have dozens if not hundreds of one pitch sport or trad routes. There's also lots of potential for bouldering. All this within a half hour's drive of downtown St. John's and the closest face only 15 minutes from the car. I hope to spend years developing this area; I already have the first half dozen routes planned out. I was going to finally climb the first route and look what happened. If anybody wants directions I'm not keeping it secret.


Sunday, June 11, 2006

New Route Guide

Leo is making excellent progress on the new guide. He said that it would be ready by early July. He is currently working on pictures and formatting. Kudos to both Leo and Jeff Holmes for the effort put into the guide. Lookin' forward to it.

New Bolts on Main Face

On Tuesday past, at a very ungodly hour, 7 new bolts were placed around the Yellow Fever Ledge.

The first pair are a set of rappel anchors placed at the top of the loose slope above the ledge. They are in the last vertical face just above the slope at about chest level. These are meant to make the descent safe. Whether you rap down, place a safety prussiut on a line, whatever, you now have no excuse if you slip on the scree and take a 100 foot free fall.

3 bolts were placed above Good Country Lovin' and Gabe. Both of these climbs are 5.11a and top out at just about the same place. Top anchors can be easily placed. Good Country Lovin' uses the left and middle bolt while Gabe uses the middle and right bolt.

2 top bolts were placed above the Fifth Element, a 5.11c to the right of Yellow Fever.

Thursday, June 01, 2006

Bouldering Series

Dave Stack has stepped up to the plate and offered to organize a weekly bouldering series. The rough plan is that one area will be chosen per week (biweekly...however often Dave wants). He will post the time and place here on the blog and in the gym on the board. He will be there and who ever wants to show up is more than welcome.

It is a great chance to see where the boulders and problems are, get some beta and just have a good time. Bring your crash pads with you so there will be plenty for everyone around.

Dave will be staring this up fairly soon so keep an eye out.


New contributors

So instead of this blog being my own platform to spew about climbing stuff on the Avalon, I have brought on help.

Leo vanUlden (manager/owner of Wallnuts Climbing Gym). Leo has been climbing here for more than 10 years and knows the outdoor areas very well. He is currently working on a route guide for the Avalon which we hope will be out next month.

Dave Stack. Dave is a very strong climber/boulder who has many first ascents of problems on the Avalon. He has a good knowledge of many of the bouldering areas.

Bob Patey. Bob has been climbing for more than 10 years. He has an obsessive habit of reading absolutely everything he can on climbing and can be a tremendous resource.

I thank these guys now for their future contributions and ideas.


Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Accident Report

On Saturday May 27, Bob Patey was climbing a first ascent in CBS. He took a relatively short fall and was caught on his first and only piece of pro. Unfortunately his foot hit a ledge prior to his fall being arrested. He has suffered a fractured ankle and is recovering.

Lesson: on low angle climbs watch for ledges that may case danger in a fall.

Saturday, May 20, 2006

Bob on Yellow Fever (5.8+)

Jay Climbing Maggie (5.11+)

Clean-up Day

The approach to the ledge above Yellow Fever is a little cleaner. Most of the looser rocks were removed. The slope is unstable and it is likely to keep washing with traffic and rain. A set of top bolts will be place for rapping down the unstable slope for added security.

The wave action was pretty significant.

Jay already had 6 pitches in when we arrived a Noon.

Sunday, May 14, 2006

Main Face Clean-Up

Saturday May 20th we are going to clear the slope above Yellow Fever of debris and try to make the descent safer. The base of Yellow Fever will be roped off to avoid injury secondary to rock fall. If you are at the base of Main Face on Saturday be very careful of rockfall.

If you are interested in helping we will be starting at about noon time. We will be setting a static line along the descent path for safety. Those interested should have knowledge in the use of prussits or ascenders and have their own gear. A helmet is a must!

It is more than likely that once finished we will climb a couple of routes.

Monday May 22 will be our alternate day if it rains on Saturday. Please watch this site for change in times or days.

Contact either Noel, Bob or Leo for further information.

Tuesday, May 02, 2006

New bolts!

Today we placed 4 new bolts at the top of Blood Bath brining the total to 7. They are 10mm Fixe glue-ins. I placed them over climbs that I know, all being 5.9 or under.

We were also climbing this morning at sunrise...Absolutely beautiful. A bit wet in places but all good. UV ray is also dry for the most part.

Climb on.

Sunday, April 30, 2006

Main Face is DRY!?!

Appearently Main Face is dry already. Paul has been out climbing there. Go figure!

Blood Bath is also dry but that is no great suprize.

The climbing season is upon us.

New routes and problems.

A notebook will be posted on the Avalon Climbing Club board so people can list new climbs and problems that have not already been published. Periodically these new climbs will be posted to

If you have not checked out already, is a pretty cool chat site. It has a good section for posting routes. Currently it has around 50-70 climbs listed but with not much detail. Newer posts will likely be better documented.

New climbs and problems will also be posted on the board at Wallnuts.

Main Face Clean-up Day

The path leading to the top of Yellow Fever and other climbs has gotten fairly dangerous. There is a lot of loose rocks.

On the May long weekend we are going to have a clean-up. The area below these climbs will be roped off so rock fall will not harm anyone. Keep posted for more details.

Bouldering Nights

We talked about a weekly or biweekly bouldering night. Interested people could go to the designated bouldering area and find out where problems are and get beta. Unfortunately I haven't bouldered much and I don't know the areas.

We need a volunteer to who can basically run this effort. It should be simple...every second week on an evening of your choice, post the location of the Bouldering Night and go there. Worst case is an evening of bouldering by yourself. Best case we build a base of excellent boulderers.

Let me know if you are interested.

April 27 - Meeting

We had a fairly small turn out but enthusiastic. Again there is a fair bit of interest in the club and possible activities.

The meat and bones of this club will take place through this web page and postings on the Avalon Climbing Club board at Wallnuts Climbing Gym. Please check this web page frequently for updates.

Instead of meetings, we will be having "socials" such as a potluck or a BBQ where things of interest can be discussed as an extra.

Logo Competition Winner

Matthew Wells was the winner of our logo competition. We had three entries to choose from but Matthew used a silhouette of the Avalon Peninsula that nailed it. He won a 25 $ gift certificate to MEC. Thanks to all for your efforts.

Thursday, April 06, 2006

Meeting Agenda - April 27, 2006

Next meeting of the ACC is scheduled April 27, 2006 at 9:00pm at Wallnuts Climbing Gym (I hope this is OK with Leo).

The items to be covered include:
  1. Bouldering Series - Someone had a great idea of having a weekly bouldering social at different locations. I need a volunteer who does a lot of bouldering and knows the areas to spearhead this effort. Anyone interested?
  2. Clean-a-Crag/BBQ - Main Face needs a face lift! A day to improve the access to climbs along Main Face, above and below.
  3. Logo Competition - Unveil the winner.
  4. Stick Clip - A brief discussion about a simple piece equipment that may save you from breaking an ankle or worse.
  5. Other Business - What ever.

Hope to see you there.

Logo Competition

We need a better logo than ACC so the challenge is issued. Create an awesome Logo for the Avalon Climbing Club. Aside from the fame and fortune that will come with winning, you will also get a 25$ MEC Gift Certificate.

Please place entries in the "Logo Competition" envelope that is displayed on the Avalon Climbing Club Information Board at Wallnuts Climbing Gym.

The winner will be announced at the ACC meeting on Thursday April 27, 2006, 9:00pm.

Good Luck

Friday, March 31, 2006

New bolts for Blood Bath.

The snow is melting and spring season is not far off. The best area's for early season climbing are south facing and little or no headland above them. Blood Bath is a short face but is dry very early in the season. It has a good number of routes but requires a lot of setup time.

Several bolts will be placed above the Blood Bath Face to allow for faster safer top rope setups. These will go in the near future.

There will be another meeting in April to discuss several topics. These will include a Main Face maintenance Day and a Avalon Climbing Club Logo competition.

Mission Statement

The mission of the Avalon Climbing Club is to generally improving climbing and bouldering on the Avalon Peninsula. This will be done by providing access to route and problem information, updates on new route and problem information, a means to meet other climbers in the area through social events and help with development of new areas.


Thursday, February 16, 2006

It's ALIVE!!!!!

Well, it seems that there is a new club in town and it is the Avalon Climbing Club. We had our first meeting on Feb 5, 2006. There were three main areas of interest; developing new and existing areas, improving access to existing areas and to disseminate information concerning routes and problems.

Some ideas presented are to develop Holyrood in the early spring by placing new top bolts and cleaning some new lines, possible bolt them at the end of the day.

Have a 'cleaning' day at Flatrock, Main Face area. This would include clearing the top access of loose rock and cleaning the approach path down the ramp.

Others just want to get outdoors but don't know where to go, so they are interested in group climbing days.

There will be a second meeting in the near future, keep posted.