Monday, February 25, 2008

Study of Form

This image called "Study of Form" was downloaded from They have a huge image gallery which is certainly worth looking at.
I think this picture is great. Powerful and calm.
Check out the route data base as well. Bob and I have been putting our FA's in there and there are a good number of classics already posted.

Just curious!?!

Anyone who has gone out to Prosser's Rock on the South Side Hill must pass this face I am curious about. It is about 100 feet wide and anywhere from 40 to 80 feet. The thing about it is that it is almost dead flat, meager features and overhanging about 25 degrees. There are a couple of diagonal cracks but look shallow.
On closer inspection, there are a few vertical discontinuous cracks and dubious face features. I think you would have to be pretty fit to tackle this face. There are a couple spots where an old fart like me might be able to give it a go. If you know this face or are just curious, have a look for possible lines. If you know someone who has tried to climb it, even better.

Friday, February 22, 2008

Rope Chopping

Someone recently asked me why I cut my rope. The main reason is convenience. Hauling around a 60 meter rope can be a pain, especially when the vast majority of climbs are less than 15 meters. It is also alot easier to bring to the gym.
About 75% of the routes at Flatrock can be top roped with a 30 meter rope. This has come in very handy. I have had ropes set up on Candy and Iron Hand at the same time. The only problem is the other 25% of the routes. I guess I will have to buy a second rope...darn!
Actually I always have 2 ropes. I keep the full rope for two years before I chop it. It doesn't see as much action as the cut ropes. I use the chopped ropes for about two years before I retire them. Usually they need to be retired.

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Omega Pacific Linkcam

Well I think the Linkcam will be my next bit of trad gear to buy. Quite honestly I have never been a big fan of Omega Pacific. I have thought of them as being on the "bargin bin" end of climbing gear. Don't trust your life to the bargin bin.
I have talked to a few people who use OP and don't have any major problems.
So...why would I think of buying the Linkcam if I don't like OP. The Linkcam does have a bit of a niche and it is the vast range the cam has. The smaller has a range of 0.83 to 2.10 inches and the larger has a range of 0.96 to 2.51 inches. That is about the same range a about 4 consecutive cams of standard types.
This is good for two situations. First is the sphincter twitcher. When you have a less than ideal grip and you have one quick chance for a placement, you don't want to fumble with the correct size. The other situation is when you are on a long trad route and you have used up most your cams. This one should fit just about anything.
Then there is the most obvious reason...I like new toys. But it that reason enough, the thing cost about 100$ a pop!!!

Yellow Fever Ledge

I am starting to get anxious for summer. Jay and Bob on the ledge.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008


I spent the weekend in Banff for a conference. I was quite surprised to find out that the place I was staying had converted a squash court into a climbing gym. I had to go check this place out and get some training in.
Mike Quigley was the guy working and I had to get my "belay test" from him. After, we started together. I told him where I was from and he says "You wouldn't happen to kow this guy. I met him in Mexico. Jay something....". It turns out that Jay and him climbed together for a couple of weeks. Like Jay, this guy takes his climbing pretty serious. Curently he is training for a trip to Nepal next summer.
Jay spoke highly of Newfoundland climbing and he is totally stoked about coming out here some day. He was very interstested in getting out to Devils Bay.
It is a small (climbing) world.

Wednesday, February 06, 2008

Power Training

Tonight is a power training night. Warm up as usual with technical endurance. Find a truely difficult project,boldering or route. Try some progressives.

Progressive: First 3 moves of problem. Not first hand holds but first MOVES. Shake out and then the first 3 again. Shake and work the 3 to 4th move. Shake out and then the first 4 moves. Then the first 6 moves. Then 8 if possible. Finish with the first 3 moves. If you are able to climb beyound 8 moves in a row then the problem is not hard enough. If you cannot get pas the first 4 moves that is OK, just repeat the first for for the total number of sets.

Try to do progressives on 3 to 5 different problems.

Finish the workout with a Rock Ring workout. For those with three sets of frenchies after the rock rings.

Power Training

Monday, February 04, 2008

Psych Test!

Leo discussed a concept directly out of "The Rock Warriors Way". It had primarily to do with possibilities and positive thinking.

Tough climbs are hard and can be mentally defeating. "That hold is shit." "I can't stick that sloper" or "That is a dangerous clip." All these negative thoughts can stop you in your tracks before you even leave the ground. Instead, look at the positive attributes of the climb. You know it is hard, thats what makes it a worthy climb. Whats good about it? Does the bad sloper have a sweet spot? Is there a safe clipping position? All these questions can unlock what seemed like an impossible problem.

Take on a positve attitude. Learn from the problem. Anger will do nothing but sap your energy and blind you to the possibilities.

Tag Anyone?!

Well after a warmup and working projects Leo made us play...TAG! Nothing like making a bunch of 20 something and 30 somethings run around a gym like a bunch of kids! There is no dignity left.

All kidding aside, it was a good and challanging exersice. It forces us to stay on a wall and keep moving for 20 minutes, without being board to death, not bad.

Saturday, February 02, 2008

My Home Wall

Hard to get a good picture of the wall. This is along the back of my garage. First panel is 15 degrees, second has a 2 foot kicker then off at 30 degrees and the third has a four foot kicker and then off at 45 degrees.

For endurance, I traverse back and forth.