Monday, August 31, 2009

Manuels Updated Topo

We managed to get a few routes up on the German Face this summer. Probably room for one or two more. As it stands now, we have 5 routes with about 55 bolts over all 5 (I guess I will need to buy some more).

From left to right:
German Engineered (Blue) 5.8
Tach Auch (Green) 5.9
Photophobia (Yellow) 5.10b
Hat' Shit (Red) 5.9+
Sick Like Dog (purple) 5.7

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Photophobia 5.10b (?c).

Bob and I got out to Manuels this morning. Instead of placing 3 bolts to start the route, it starts on the first 2 bolts of Tach Auch. I had to place one more to bridge the gap to Photophobia. Getting to the 4th bolts is quite easy but it is at the beginning of a fairly blank face. Another 3 bolts get you thru the crux section. The upper third is more like 5.9 so I spaced the bolts a bit more to keep the challenge up. It is the stiffest route I have put up this year.
Bob began spying and cleaning a new line beside German Engineered. It is nice and consistent climbing. Bob will bolt it the next time out. We figure it will go around 5.8.
I am soon to do up a route guide for the area but that is probably useless until next year.
Today was the first time I had been to German Face in about a month. I was very happy to see that the path is getting worked in. I guess people are getting out there to climb. Awesome.

Friday, August 28, 2009

Big Step

Climbing last year in the Gunks was great. I did a lot training to get ready for that trip. Unfortunately I trained the wrong thing. I was lapping mid 5.10's and flashing the odd 5.11. The entire time in the Gunks I don't think I did a climb over a 5.8. The mental muscle is what I needed to train.
This is a picture of leading the second pitch of Betty, a Gunks classic. This step was over a void of 150 feet. Lots of stemming and little roofs. Coming up under the roofs was intense. After 2 pitches I was at the top. My first multi-pitch lead. I was scared and stoked at the same time. What made it so hard for me was the mental game. It was only a 5.3.
Leading on trad, unfamiliar rock, never having lead above 50 feet, the uncanny exposure...all these things made it intense. My only regret is that I never pushed my physical limits. I think it would be nice to dial down the mental intensity and push the physical limits for the next trip. Get into some single pitch sport climbing. It is a nice goal for a winter of climbing indoors.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Is everyone back?

It has been a bit of a dry spell. I was off on vacation for two weeks and when I get back Bob and Kim are off and Jan is in Germany. All my regular partners have been away. I still have a route to finish bolting and a couple of other projects that I would like to have bolted before winter. The kids will be back to school soon and before you know it snow, again!
Last year Leo and I went to the Gunks at the end of Sept. and had a great time climbing. It seems that I am strongest at the beginning of the season. I am thinking of maybe doing a spring road trip. Go somewhere with a lot of good sport routes so we can push some limits. Food for thought.
I have been asked when I am going to put off the next Viagra Classic. Maybe in the fall.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Climbing Before Bill

Hurricane Bill is coming our way. I thought he might rain us out for Sunday but the forecast is good. Myself and Tim will be going out to Manuels (yet to confirm with Tim). When I get back I have to Hurricane Proof the house and cabin. Should be fun.

OR Humor

Sometimes the guys in the or have too much time on their hands.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

iPod Found

Tim and I were climbing down at Cemetery Face this morning before it began raining. We managed to get in 3 routes before the rain started. While we were cleaning up, Tim happened to see this iPod in the trees. It is an older model and white in color. I think it is toast because of the condensation on the inside of the screen.

Monday, August 17, 2009

News From Jan

Jan has been living in Newfoundland now over 2 years. He returned to Germany at the beginning of August to tie up a few loose ends before returning. This picture is from some hiking Jan was doing last week. This is the type of surrounding that Jan learned to climb in. He was told me about numerous multi-pitch sport climbs in the 5.6 to 5.8 range. These climbs were up to 10 pitches long (1000+ feet). That would be a nice afternoon jaunt.

He also went to a new climbing gym in Gliching with is just west of Munich. The wall are 40 feet with synthetic rock panels and modular holds. It looks like the work of Enter Prise Systems (or something similar). I guess it is time for a bit of a renovation, hey Leo???

Wetness Overnight

The forecast isn't so hot. 60% showers overnight and rain starting in the morning. Unless something really changes, tomorrow morning will be rained out.

A picture of Bob, Jan and Kim. Jan is helping Kim with her belay device and NOTHING else!

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Vacation Over

I am back. I spent a week out at the cabin and a week in Corner Brook. Hardly any exercise and a whole lot of junk food. In a weird way it felt pretty good but it is time to get my shit together. I am hoping that Leo will start his climbing sessions in the fall. If not I will be getting on a training schedule regardless. Long range?... possibly a trip in the fall.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Days Off

Every now and again I think it is worth while taking a bit of time off climbing. It allows you to re-focus and heal up some long standing but minor injuries. I am in the middle of taking 2 weeks off climbing. I can't say that I have gone into withdrawl or anything but I find myself staring at various faces wondering what they would be like to climb.
Mentally I have been a little exhausted lately. I love climbing and training for climbing but sometimes it gets to be a bit too much. Instead of the unbrideled excitement of going climbing it has been a bit more of a chore. Lugging the equipment in and out. Burning hard earned 'browny points' to get out when I don't usually. It can be a real balancing act. Taking a few days off can make it feel new again.

Friday, August 07, 2009

Happy Birthday

Happy Birthday to ME!!!!
Today I am 41 years old and trying to act like I am 21 years old. My kids thinks I am silly...but what would they know.

Thursday, August 06, 2009

Another New Face???

Was just talking to Andrew L. about some stuff unrelated to climbing. He was out in the middle of the woods at some over hung face that he just found. He was on his way to the German Face and got off trail and came to this hidden overhung face that is further on that the German Face. They set up a TR and figured they were on something around a 5.11. He promises to get me a couple of pictures.

Saturday, August 01, 2009


We were out climbing this morning with Trevor filming us. He filmed Kim climbing German Engineered and me climbing Tach Auch. After that he was filming Bob cleaning a face and myself bolting a new line. I have mixed feelings about the new line. It is inconsistent. It starts of quite easy at 5.8ish. Then the middle third gets onto a thin face with shitty feet and crimps. It is probably about a hard 5.10. Then the top gets easy again. I was thinking about trying to get a roof move at the end but the fall was too dangerous. I didn't finish bolting it today, it still needs 3 bolts at the bottom. When done I will likely call it Photophobia.