Thursday, August 09, 2012

Blockbuster 5.11b

Today I left Louis and David at the Hangover.  I showed them a couple of top anchors I placed and let them at it.  After I left, they bolted a new line to the right of Distorted Perception.  Louis got the FA on this one.  While he was prepping the route a few blocks of rock popped out on him.  He called it Blockbuster and it goes at 5.11b.

Dyslexia 5.7

I was out climbing today with Louis Loader, David Bruneau, Kim and myself.  I would like to say that I was crushing 5.12 like the boys but nope.  Louis and David asked if they could come out and do some bolting.  The last time out, Kim and I placed a set of top anchors below Life or Limb.  I showed the guys how to use the drill and the basics of bolting.  
We tied off the rope with a figure 8 at the mid-point.  I rapped on one side while David and Louis came down the other side.  We shared the drilling and bolting.  At one point, I thought the drill bit must have worn out.  David had half the hole drilled and he just couldn't get any deeper. We checked the bit, it was fine.  The battery was fresh.  For a couple of minutes we just couldn't figure it out.  Then David says "maybe I have the drill turned on in reverse!".  The drill has two settings, forward and reverse, for screwing in and taking out screws.  David managed to drill most of the hole with the drill in reverse.  We had a bit of a laugh about that.
Once we finished bolting the line, Louis and David did 'rock, paper, scissors' for the FA.  The line starts to the right of Obsession under a horn-like feature about 15 feet off the ground.  The are a series of nice jugs/rales running diagonally up to the left.  Above the horn, follow a series of under clings to the left arrete and follow another series of jugs for about 15 feet.  The route then head back right to the top bolts. The route is about 75 feet with eight bolts and top anchors.  
David got the FA (sorry Louis).  He wanted the name to reflect his bolting experience, especially the one he drilled in reverse.  I suggested to keep the theme of the wall (Obsession and Obsessive Compulsive Disorder) and came up with Dyslexia.  The decision was suominanu.  The route is called Dyslexia and it goes at 5.7.
The pic is David sending Dyslexia.

Wednesday, August 08, 2012

Historic Climbing Pics of Newfoundland

I had an interesting comment on one of my postings.  I basically was asking if I could get access to old climbing photos from the Avalon.  If you have any old photos that may fit the bill, leave a comment or email it to
When I was climbing in the Gunks, I saw some artifacts still being used.  Even photos like this with an explanation would be cool.
PS  This is a two piton anchor with multiple slings.  This is at the top of the first pitch of a two pitch climb (I think it is the Horseman).

Monday, August 06, 2012

Climbing Partner Needed

I am off this week and I was hoping to bolt some routes.  I haven't been able to find anyone to help me out.  I was hoping to get out tomorrow.  Place a comment and contact info if you are interested.  You can also send me an email or call if you have my info but I don't post it on this blog.