Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Pretty Thin

We had a bit of a crew out this morning: Bob, Tak, Marcie, Alex, Hakase and myself. We went to to Justin's Face and set up 4 TR's. I found the bolts over the 'dyno' route were quite a bit to the right. I wasn't comfortable TRing it for fear of a pendulum swing. I don't know if those were the intended bolts for the top of that route.
The next route had really thin feet off the ground with a really cool lay back up to crimps. The crux was just getting off the ground. Marcie and Alex really liked it and spent a fair bit of time trying to work thru the sequence.
The 3rd one followed a thin crack line up to a shallow corner with a good foot ledge. The crux was moving off this ledge up onto some thin crimps with poor feet. It then goes a bit over hanging with some nice holds to keep it all together.
The 4th is not an established route, but it should be/will be. At the start of the 3rd route, a second crack leans off to the right. It provides good hands but with very thin feet. You can then gain the ledge which is actually the extreme left of the access switch-back. From here either a hand jam or an under cling lead to a sidepull high up on the prow. Reposition the feet to get a lovely pinch/jug and then the top. We used the right most bolt and two pieces of gear to create the anchor.
All the routes were good, but my fingertips are sore. You need good edging shoes as many of the foot holds are small.

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