Monday, August 30, 2010
Mr and Mrs Trevor and Nadine Harris
Best of luck guys and have a "Happily Ever After".
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Loosing Battle
Wednesday, August 04, 2010
Monday, August 02, 2010
Climbing Season Over?
Friday, July 23, 2010
Life at Work
I couldn't help myself. Someone brought this to my attention and I had to post it. There is always a running joke between anesthesia and surgery, paticularly orthopedics, about trying to get cases done in people who are not not healthy.
Monday, July 19, 2010
The Upper Face
We finally did it! We have a couple routes on the Upper Face. They are rope stretchers so read carefully. Do Not Climb these routes without a 60 meter rope and even then be very careful not to belay your partner off the end of the rope. The bottom apron was a bit of a issue. The climbing there was very easy and not consistent with the climbing above. We decided to split the route into 2 pitches. The bottom route is a 5.3 or 5.4 up to the rap anchors noted in the photo by the blue dots. We shall call it 'Cake Walk'. The next 2 routes start at the top of Cake Walk and are meant to be belayed from these anchors. Both routes can be belayed from the bottom but have very little rope to spare. If there is a concern, stop at the rap anchors and lower in 2 stages.
The route in blue on the right is called Obsession 5.8. This route moves through the little ceiling I have been staring at for the last year. It was fun and challenging to bolt. The route has really cool movement as it moves over 2 small ceilings. It may seem a bit intimidating but the climbing is solid. Just when you think you have gotten through the hard stuff, you get to the hard stuff...it is a little blank but I am sure you will figure it out. It finishes on some easy slab terrain. It lowers off onto the apron and terra fir-ma can be reached with rope stretch.
The route in red (on left) is called Juggernaut 5.9. It is fun right off the ground with very consistent climbing. It follows some great features that appear to be just seams in the rock. Sometimes you just get tips and sometimes your whole hand falls in. You never know if it is going to be a jug or not. I brought the top anchors down a bit so the finish was more consistent and the lower should be fine now.
Note: if you do intend on belaying from the bottom, bring an extended sling to clip the belay anchor on your way up.
Post some feedback for me. I would like to hear.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Would have never thought.
We out at Manuels today. There were some people on German Face. Be we were on the Upper face and couldn't see how many. We were quite surprised to see this many cars (8).
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Rumney Day 3
Day 3 was a very good day. We went up to Jimmy Cliff which was about a 45 minute hike up Rattlesnake Mountain. The hike was really cool because we passed 2 really cool faces; Darth Vadar and the famous Waimea. Waimea is described as the Crown Jewel of Rumney with more 3 star routes than any other at Rumney. It holds the hardest route in the North-East, Jaws 2 going at 5.15a. It also has 7 5.14's and 23 5.13's among its 47 routes starting at 5.10d. The picture can not do it justice, it was freakin awesome. Just look at all the fixed draws and how they hang from the wall. So cool.
Once we got to Jimmy Cliff, we went straight to 'Clip a Dee Doo Dah', a classic *** 5.3 2pitch sport climb that almost goes to the top of the mountain. Bob had read about this climb weeks before we ever left for Rumney and wanted to do it. I felt the same way, it had to be done. It was a very cool climb, all slab and well bolted. There were enough features to make the climb easy but for a slab novice, it was no give away. I took this picture of Bob while I was climbing the 2nd pitch. He is at the belay anchor. The walk down was quite easy and from there we went to the next area of Jimmy Cliff.
It was Bob's turn to do some lead. He led 3 climbs being a 5.5, 5.6 and a 5.7. One was particularly heady but Bob took his time and worked through it. I followed him on it and was quite surprised about how quirky the route was. Bob's lead head was really starting to come around.
Myself, I want to try a couple things that might have been a bit over my head. I got to the bottom of a 5.10b that followed and arete to a set of anchors. It was slightly overhanging with a traverse. I finished it with a bit of hangdogging but I knew I could get it clean just not on this trip. The anchors I finished on were directly over a 5.10c. I TR'd that route. I had to sit back 3 times but knew that with a little work I could get that one too. This answered one of the questions I had before going to Rumney...Could I really climb in the hard 10/ easy 11 range. The answer was yes and that made me a pretty happy guy.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Jan is a Dad!
Tuesday, July 06, 2010
Rumney Day2
Bob and I decided to try and get some milage. On day 2 we went to a big face that can be easily seen from the road. Of course it is called Main Cliff (similar to our Main Face). It has 57 lines most of which are moderate sport routes. We chose to go to a gully that had believe it or not, had a 5.1, 5.2 and a 5.3 sport route. They were actually very good routes. The 5.3 was called Wimpy Gilman Ridge and it followed a very thin arete to the top of another route called Preppy's Crack (5.7). Bob couldn't decide which route he liked more.
There was an interesting 5.6 just around the corner called Rainbow, so I decided to give it a shot. It starts off a ledge and goes up a steep juggy wall. That was cool but then I almost got shut down by GD slabby runout. I noticed a series of holds off to the right that allowed me to finish the climb. That was definitely my highlight of the day. The top of the climb looked over into the gully we had been climbing in earlier. The pic is of Bob at the top of Rainbow cleaning the anchor and I went back into the gully to take the shot.
Well I didn't think the day could get better but of coarse it did. We went over to have a look at a climb that was a 'must do'. It was called Metamorphosis (5.8). The guide had a big warning to only use a 60 meter rope and don't lower your partner off the end. The climb follows a left facing corner and then under a BIG overhang to the headwall to the top. Looking at it from the base, it scared the hell out of me. Then along came Lenka and Mike. Lenka had climbed it a few times in the past and wanted to lead it. Her boyfriend, Mike, followed the climb and set up our rope as a TR. It was an absolutely awesome climb. Logically I know I could have led it, but as I was doing the TR, I was thinking about how the lead would be...intense and exposed. Another day...maybe. You can see the rope following the route and Bob is at the anchor above.
While Bob was TRing Metamorphosis, Mike was climbing a really cool looking overhanging route to our left. I snapped this pic of him. It turned out to be Cereal Killer (5.11c). Again, we met some really great people.
We bailed after that climb and got the BEST burger ever at a local bar and grill called Panthers, after the local university sports team.
Monday, July 05, 2010
Rumney Day 1
The town of Rumney is nothing more than a rural blip on the map. It has one intersection with a Cafe and a stretch of highway that goes by Rattlesnake Mountain. The climbing area of Rumney is spread over 15 to 20 individual crags on the Southern slopes of Rattlesnake Mountain. Access can be quite easy with a short jaunt up to an hour slog up the freakin mountain. The rock type is Schist which was way different than what we are used to.
We stayed at a motel in Plymouth, NH which was only about a 10 minute drive. We arrived late Tuesday night and were ready to climb Wednesday morning. We knew the weekends get crowded so we decided to climb the easily accessible crags during the week and the deeper ones one the weekend (less crowded).
The first crag we went to was called the Parking Lot wall, for obvious reasons, it was directly above the main parking lot. It had a good range of routes from 25 to 75 feet in height. I have no intention of boring you with all the details of every single climb but I will mention the highlights.
Glory Jeans (5.7) was a highlight for me. This climb was about 70 feet and the notable part was that it had a traverse with great feet but poor hands right near the top. It was a heady lead but because on 3 clips you were worried about the pendulum whipper. Really cool climb.
Bob soon after had a highlight of leading Easily Amused (5.6). It was important for Bob to get on the sharp end as soon as possible. He dealt with a mental crux on this one not because the climbing was hard but because there was a 15 foot runout over the last bolt to the anchors.
You can't experience accomplishment without experiencing defeat at some point. I had been having a great morning after climbing several routes including Glory Jeans and Curly for President (5.8) just a stellar line. Some one had recommended another great line called Bolt Line (5.8). Being on a high I thought 'Hell ya!'. To quote the guide "Excellent sustained low angle climbing (ie -slab route)" "This originally had only 3 widely spaced bolts. However, even with the added protection (total 7 bolts now) there is enough of a runout at the top to maintain that warm traditional feeling." "The direct unprotected start is about 5.10". Okay so it is a 5.8...how bad could it be. Well the first bolt was really high over a bit of a roof. After some farting around Bob and I managed to get the first bolt stick clipped. So then I get on lead. I manage to get over the bolt that was clipped and with a few dicey moves I can clip the next bolt. Well shit, the 3rd bolt is at least 15 feet away and all I can see are a few ripples and divots on about a 15 degree slab. This wasn't even the run out part. Waves of nausea and panic washed thru me as I thought about the cheese grater of a fall and the though of climbing higher. I felt pretty defeated as I lowered off one of my biners on the second bolt (pic is before I pulled the rope). Spanked!
We bailed soon after and came back that evening to a place called the Meadows. Again it had very easy access with a good number of moderates. I finished that night by sending a 5.10a (Mr.Popular) that finished on a small roof, really cool. Bob lead a 5.7 called False Modesty. Overall we had an amazing opening day. I lead 10 different routes and Bob lead 3 over 8 hours of climbing.
The other climber that were around for the most part were great. As mentioned before, I had lost my route guide and two sets of other climbers helped us out. Matt and Marie showed us a couple of other worthy routes. Katie and Chris were also really helpful. Chris actually helped look for the guide and then they invited us to climb with them for the rest of the day so we could use their guide. Good people.
We ate supper at about 9pm and were passed out by 10:30pm. That was our first day at Rumney.
Sunday, July 04, 2010
Friday, July 02, 2010
Waimea Wall
Bob and I went to Jimmie's Face which has a 2 pitch 5.3 slab route. We then went on to climb a few other routes. We had to pass Waimea on the way. Waimea is probably the hardest and most notable face in the North-east. It has Jaws II at 5.15a, one of the few 5.15's in North America. Most of the climbs are in the 5.13's. The whole face is around 30 over hanging with bulges and corners. Really cool to see in person. I think there are a couple of routes with Janes name on them.
Thursday, July 01, 2010
Metamorphosis 5.8
We went to another section of the face to climb Metamorphosis. Some one highly recommended the climb. It is a full half rope and in fact people have lowered their partners off by accident. Somebody was on it and offered to bring up our rope. Thank god because it would have shit my pants. Great climb.
Main Wall left side.
Needed to work on Bob's lead head so we came to this gully which has 4 climbs under 5.7. He lead them all.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Friendly Natives
I lost my guide book after our first couple routes. I have no idea what happened to it and I got pretty pissed off. Two sets of climbers were around when we lost it. Matt and Marie are a couple of locals who we got talking with. They showed us a few cool routes to keep us busy for a while.
What the Schist!
Bob and I spent our first climbing in Rumney...wow! I lead 11 routes today ranging from 5.6 to 5.10a. Bob is working on lead and did a 5.6 and a 5.7. The lower grades seem run out. The picture is of Bolt Line (5.8) which is a widely spaced. It originally had only 3 bolts.
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Stranger Things
Bob and I managed to get out climbing at the last minute tonight. We decided to go out to Cemetery Face because of the evening sun and easy approach. Now we have been climbing out there for over 3 years and have never come across another party. With the popularity of the German Face I figured that Cemetery Face was all but forgotten. We were kinda blown away when we got there to find 7 other people already climbing in 2 separate parties. I guess a few other people went out there for the same reasons we did. Phil was out there with some friends and the other party were 2 guys who had read about the area on RockClimbing.com. Cool.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
More Than Last Time
I am finding developing this face is harder than the German Face. We had to cut a new trail but it is steeper. When we got there, we discussed potential lines. It was decided that we needed to have the top anchors lower than where we were so you could climb it with a 60 meter rope. So we had to get to the top, lower on rap, drill two top anchors, pull the rope and then set up top ropes. That only took 2 hours leaving only 30 minutes to climb (we cleaned a lot of moss off the face). Kim was at the top for quite some time and when she came down, she was really cold. She needs some more meat on her bones.
The plan is to keep these two routes as a two pitch. Bob's top anchor keeps the rope short by 10 feet. On rappel you can get enough rope stretch to get to the ground. The one Jan and I were on will have to be two pitch, a 60 meter is definitely short. I placed a second set of top bolts at the bottom of where the face goes vertical. The bottom section will be EASY sport (5.2) just to gain the belay ledge. I think that we have 2 potential lines off that set of top bolts, both real cool climbing. One on the left is dead vertical with great features. Good jugs just when you need them. The other one I didn't climb but it is really quite thin. I was on Bob's line last week and that is looking pretty cool as well.
We have spotted 3 or 4 trad lines in the face but we haven't brought our racks to try them out. The next time out we should be putting up routes. Unfortunately for me that will not be until July, I have to go to Rumney!
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Feels Like Old Times
We had a foursome climbing on Saturday; Kim, Bob, myself and of all people Jan (where the hell has he been?). It had an eery feeling of last summer when we started developing the German Face. We bushwhacked to get into the face, we hauled a lot of loose rock off the cliff and we actually did a bit of climbing. Bob placed a new set of top anchors and Kim and him cleaned and top roped what will likely be a nice 5.5ish trad route (Red). It follows a feature that may take pro but they may choose to bolt it.
Jan and I set up a top rope on a set of anchors I placed last year. I new it was higher than 100 feet so we belayed from the top so we could lower more than 100 feet. We cleaned the face as we were lowered down, knocking off a few blocks and weeding some ledges. I came down directly over the small roof I have been thinking about all year. It was not nearly big as I was hoping (I have never heard that before...really). Regardless, the climbing above and below is really good. I had noticed some cool features on the left of my line. One was a continuous hand crack leaning out left. I mentioned this to Jan before he went down. I belayed him back up and his smile could not have been wider. The climbing was great and he figures something in the mid 5.10's.
So I think we have our first 4 or 5 routes figured out now we need to bolt them. Maybe next time.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Rumney Climbing Guide
Finally got my guide book for Rumney in the mail the other day. Getting that makes it REAL. Just flipping through the pages and seeing all the routes...awesome. Rumney is known for being steep and overhanging. It has a huge concentration of climbs in the 5.12 to 5.14X range and has one of the few American 5.15b's. I figure it will take a bit of work to put that one down!
There are actually a lot of bolted moderates. There is even a wall called the 5.8 wall. Most of the climbing is 100 feet or less so a 60 meter rope works well. One climb has already sussed out is called "clip-de-do-da", a 2 pitch sport 5.5. That will be fun
Tuesday, June 08, 2010
Sunday, June 06, 2010
Fern Gully 5.2
We started cutting a new trail only to find that it came out too far away from the Upper Face. It will be fine for the Wall of Possibilities. We were hoping to hike to the base of the Upper Face and start climbing. The brush was too thick to bushwhack through so we had to go to the German Face.
Bob climbed German Access and set a top anchor over Tack Auch. We then had to hoist our crap up the wall and then I followed, cleaning the gear. Finally we mad it to the base of the Upper Face.
I had one big goal for the day, and that was to put up a fixed line to get access to the top. I climbed up though the gully slinging a couple of saplings and the odd piece of gear to keep myself safe. I guess you could call it a route but it isn't anything I would ever clean for a real climb. Too much gardening for that.
I built an anchor and brought Bob up. Bob had one big goal for the day and that was to places top anchors for a new route. Bob bought a new drill over the winter and has been itching to use it. Unfortunately, by the time both of us were up we had to leave. Oh well!
The liken on the face very slippery and near impossible to remove. When it is dry it just flakes off. So all this rain is messing up both climbing and developing. God we need a break.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Aging Like a Rope
For those of you who care, I rotate through 3 ropes. I have a new rope that I keep full length and then as a rope ages, I will cut it in half. I find a 30 meter rope good for the gym and Flat Rock. When the half rope gets old I use it as a fixed line where ever I am developing. I am about to cut my Mammut Flash (a burly 10.5mm) which is 3 years old but only used for 2 seasons. One Saturday past we were using it on German Face and I noticed that it seemed stiff. It felt kinda like an older gym rope when it looses its play.
Wednesday we were climbing at Walnuts when I took out my 30 meter Beal Top Gun (10.5 mm). That rope is 4 years old with 2 years of significant gym use and abuse. It seemed a little limp, sort of like cooked spaghetti. I know that heavy use can cause a rope to become limp.
Then the irony hits, what rope am I more like? Am I like the Mammut, the older I get, the more damage I take leaving me stiff with kinks here and there. I just don't play like I use to. Or am I more like the Beal, limp and played out ready to be hung outside for the season. But then, who really freekin cares because if I was a rope, I would keep going until my sheath was worn down with core shots here and there. Even if I was only good enough to be used on 5.5's, it would still be better than being woven into a mat for the retirement home. So I guess it doesn't really matter what rope I am, as long as I am getting out.
But between you and me, I think I would rather be the Beal Top Gun...Kim always liked the way it felt in her hands;)
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Strange Things in the Woods
A strange thing happened in the wood...with Kim! Now I have to set the scene. We met at the trail head at 6 am and hiked in. We had done a couple climbs when we were chatting while getting for the next lead. Then it happened! Something I didn't expect at that hour and in that place. It was an odor! Not strong but noticeable. I wasn't sure but it seemed to come from Kim. I leaned in (subtlety) and it got stronger. Okay...Kim stinks; but not of body odor or foot rot. She smelled good! What the #%#!. Who the hell can get up a 5am, hike for 1/2 hour and climb for another hour and smell like fricken roses. It is just not natural. Bob would smell like 5 day old road kill and Kim smells 'nice'. The things you got to put up with when you climb with 'chicks'.
Monday, May 10, 2010
Rain Drizzle and Fog
Last year this time I had already been out climbing a couple of times. Just bad luck (weather) this year. I have a bunch of bolts ready to place. I just bought a new 60 meter rope I can't wait to hang on. Every time the weather is good...my timing is not. Life gets in the way of life.
On a lighter note, Bob has confirmed that he is going to Rumney with me. I have been climbing with Bob for almost 8 years and this will be the first time we have done a trip together. Can't wait!
Friday, April 30, 2010
Road Trip
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Chit Chat and 50 Bolts
As the weather improves and the days get longer, the talk about getting outside gets more enthusiastic. I am kinda psyched because we suddenly have 4 more people looking to develop and three new drills for placing bolts.
Paul, Matt and Trevor bought a drill between them and are keen to put up routes. I think they are looking to stay at Main Face. Paul has put up routes in the past. Matt and Trevor have all kinds of resource to help them get routes up.
Bob has put up many routes in the past but this year he has gotten a drill. With the two of us putting up routes in Manuels with two drills we hope to double our productivity.
John is an unsuspecting developer. Opportunity knocked on his door and he found an offer he couldn't refuse. He managed to get his hands on the same drill I have (but 5 years newer) for half the price...lucky SOB.
How will all this pan out? Who knows. But I just received my first order from MEC, 50 bolts with hangers. Last year, I think we put up about 100 bolts over seven lines. I figure I will need at least one more order.
The picture above is one Bob sent me. It is part of the Upper Faces above the German Wall. The continuous face seen in the right side of the picture Bob has coined as the Wall of Possibilities. The face continues right for another 100 feet or more. It is all about 40 to 80 feet and fairly accessible. Oh where to start?
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Oh, Rumney!
Well it is starting to get close. I have booked my flights to Montreal with the intention of going to Rumney for some climbing. I will leave on Tuesday June 29 for Rumney (evening). It is a 3 hour drive. I should be climbing 5 days (wed-sun). I have a flight back at 8:30pm meaning that I should be at the airport at 6ish. Quit climbing around 2 or 3 for the last day.
So here is a question...is anyone interested in coming?
Total cost
Flights= 580 to 680
Car=350 divided by the number of occupants
Hotel= 80-90 per day divided by number of occupants (I ain't sharing a bed!)
On the high side about 1000$, if things are split in two.
Middle is about 350 if you can get the fight on points and the car is split by 4.
Low is 110+ is you get your flight on points and stay at a campground.
It is time to pull the trigger so let me know if you are interested, I am going to book my hotel soon, Plymouth Red Roof Inn
Noel
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Tour De Bloc- Eastern 2010
I am sure I will be corrected for inaccuracies but here it goes:
Newfoundland had 9 participants, 8 of which made the finals. Of those 8, 5 brought home medals. I am unsure of some of the placements and in what divisions so I will not elaborate. All I know for sure is that there was a little gold out there!
I have been checking the "Tour de Bloc'" website with no results yet. I will keep ya posted. If there are pics to post send them on.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Tim's Submission
He was reading my blog when he came across my clip on the advantages of an equallette. He was iceclimbing when that information came in very handy. In His own words:
"Hey Noel,
I watched the equalette videos on your blog, and decided to give it a whirl. I just spent a few days ice climbing in Rjukan, Norway. I used it for a couple of 3 screw anchors, but on the last day the ice was starting to turn to shit so I used it for a 4 screw anchor. I don't know if I could have made the anchor with a cordelette, but the equalette was a snap. I thought you might like to see a pic. I probably should have shortened up the right side a bit, but it took me ages to dig down to decent ice, so I just said screw it (no pun intended) and carried on.
Tim"
Thanks for the feedback Tim. I think that was pretty fcuking cool.