Tuesday, July 06, 2010

Rumney Day2

Bob and I decided to try and get some milage. On day 2 we went to a big face that can be easily seen from the road. Of course it is called Main Cliff (similar to our Main Face). It has 57 lines most of which are moderate sport routes. We chose to go to a gully that had believe it or not, had a 5.1, 5.2 and a 5.3 sport route. They were actually very good routes. The 5.3 was called Wimpy Gilman Ridge and it followed a very thin arete to the top of another route called Preppy's Crack (5.7). Bob couldn't decide which route he liked more.

There was an interesting 5.6 just around the corner called Rainbow, so I decided to give it a shot. It starts off a ledge and goes up a steep juggy wall. That was cool but then I almost got shut down by GD slabby runout. I noticed a series of holds off to the right that allowed me to finish the climb. That was definitely my highlight of the day. The top of the climb looked over into the gully we had been climbing in earlier. The pic is of Bob at the top of Rainbow cleaning the anchor and I went back into the gully to take the shot.
Well I didn't think the day could get better but of coarse it did. We went over to have a look at a climb that was a 'must do'. It was called Metamorphosis (5.8). The guide had a big warning to only use a 60 meter rope and don't lower your partner off the end. The climb follows a left facing corner and then under a BIG overhang to the headwall to the top. Looking at it from the base, it scared the hell out of me. Then along came Lenka and Mike. Lenka had climbed it a few times in the past and wanted to lead it. Her boyfriend, Mike, followed the climb and set up our rope as a TR. It was an absolutely awesome climb. Logically I know I could have led it, but as I was doing the TR, I was thinking about how the lead would be...intense and exposed. Another day...maybe. You can see the rope following the route and Bob is at the anchor above.

While Bob was TRing Metamorphosis, Mike was climbing a really cool looking overhanging route to our left. I snapped this pic of him. It turned out to be Cereal Killer (5.11c). Again, we met some really great people.

We bailed after that climb and got the BEST burger ever at a local bar and grill called Panthers, after the local university sports team.

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