Thursday, July 20, 2006

Paging Don Keidick

"Paging Don Keidick" is the new 5.10b/c on Main Face towards the left end just before the waters edge. This route was bolted by Jason Wall in early June and the first ascent was by Leo VanUlden later that week.

Donkey Dick is a great 5.10 with 25-27 meters of climbing. It is well protected with 12 bolts plus top anchors. The opening moves are difficult and kind of bouldery. Then you traverse left over the edge of a ceiling to an arete. The left side is followed up on nice thin ledges and pulls for the first half. It is 5.9 to 5.10a moves on slightly positive terrain. Then the climb becomes vertical and the moves get harder.

Becareful...kamikaze seagulls live near by. One pair of climbers got seriously dive bombed as they approached the anchors.

This route has seen a good number of assents since it was established. Everyone agrees that it has great flow and sequence, logically and safely bolted and that it is an instant classic sport route.

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