Saturday, September 09, 2006

Candy 5.7

Candy is the route in black on the right. It starts in the corner and travels left after the 1st bolt. Just above the 2nd bolt is a nice jug which leads into the horizontal gear crack. Top out after clipping the 3rd bolt onto a nice wide ledge where the top bolts are placed.

The route beside it is un-named and is about 5.10c/d. Jay has the first ascent and therefore the right to name it. I asked him what he was going to call it and his reply was "What...that piece of shit!?!" So by default I guess the name is... Piece of Shit.

I like the Piece of Shit. You start under a small ceiling and reach the first large horizontal ledge. Then you smear both feet onto the bottom of the face and reach for a crimp with the right. With no feet and one crimp you reach left for a vertical crack. This allows you to reposition your feet and gain the next horizontal crack. There are 2 bolts and a gear placement. We are going to place a 3rd bolt above the gear placement to primarily keep the route to the left side of the face. Currently people are just using the last bolt on Candy which is actually off route. Try out the piece of shit for yourself.

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