Saturday, September 15, 2007

Two Onsight First Ascents

We had a beautiful morning today. Bob, Peter, Tim and myself went out to Manuels for some climbing. Bob and show the boys around a little bit, established routes and lots of future potential. Then we roped up.

Peter was sporting a hangover so the lead went to Tim. He led Ankle Biter and thought it was awesome!!!! "Tons of hands and feet. Solid rock and all kinds of placement opportunities."

While he was doing that, I was curious about a short line I spied around the corner from Ankle Biter. I hopped on the sharp end and climbed a 25 foot crack (Onsight 5.7ish). I gained a ledge that was overgrown with shrubs. I built an anchor and was going to belay Bob up. Once on anchor, I could see a line on the upper face that was begging to be climbed...easy ground! This belay ledge also happens to be at the top of a ramp that can we scrambled up.

From here, Bob belayed me from the ledge with one cam as a bottom anchor. I started climbing this "easy ground" to find that my first descent placement (OO C3) was about 25 feet from Bob. From here the climb got more vertical (5.6ish) and I was able to place a nut and a couple of cams. From there it was very easy scramble to the top (5.3ish).

My first onsight FA! Arborist 5.7 can be done as a single pitch. The first crack can be avoided by going up the ramp climbing the last 2/3 at about 5.5 or 5.6.

After Tim led Ankle biter, he roped up to try out Noobie Squeeze. Peter had something else in mind for Tim. On Peters rap off Ankle Biter, he was checking out a bulging feature between the two established lines. Once Tim gain the ground just under the bulge, Peter started heckling Tim to go up the bulge. After sussing out the line for a bit, Tim went onsight over the right of the bulge and back up to the anchors on Noobie Squeeze.

Peer Pressure 5.8 (grade needs to be confirmed by Tim) was a big first for Tim. It was his first FA as well as a first Onsight FA.

Tim goes back to Ireland on Tuesday and Peter heads back to Halifax in 10 days. I would like to thank the both of them fro coming out and having a great day.


Anonymous said...

Noel, I'd like to thank you for taking us out on Saturday. I really enjoyed it and look forward to getting out there again. I'm not much for rating climbs, but if I had to guess I'd say peer pressure was 5.7 or 5.8. The area in general seems like a great place to cut your teeth on trad. Thanks again for taking me out, I can't wait for next season.

Anonymous said...

That was a good day. More peer pressure to come Noel... I'm hoping to get home again in the summer but until then keep up the exploration and hard training.