Tuesday, September 04, 2007

Grateful Dead 5.10c

Today was the day, I sent Grateful Dead. Bob and I were out this morning. I spent some time working the top section, took a rest and then did the route. It felt so good!

I read an article on red pointing a while back. It basically discussed working a route from the top down. When working a route, most of us work to get the crux and then try to send. You figure the crux but are usually so spent, the rest of the route seems harder than it should.

The sequence after the crux should be wired before the red point attempt. Once wired, then figure out how to enter it after you have finished the crux, and then the crux. In essence, the route is broken down into small sections and you learn them from the top down, one at a time. The end result, you are most familiar with the end of the climb. On your red point attempt went you are pumped after the crux, it should be much easier knowing exactly how to finish the route off.

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