Monday, May 21, 2018

Marine Lab Slabs

Yan and I went out Saturday morning to check out a face near Marine Lab. I am always looking for climbing that is close to home and an easy approach.
I had been considering checking out the slab/nose that is right beside the road. It's only about 15 feet but maybe a bit of slab climbing.
I thought I could see some short faces above but never paid much attention to them. I took my drone out one day to try to get a better look. I was pleasantly surprised to see another wider face above.
The Marine Lab Nose
I had a bit of time after work on Thursday and curiosity got the better of me. I started bush wacking up to where I thought the face was. I am glad I did because what I saw had potential. The face was higher than I expected, 30 to 50 feet and about 50 feet wide but of pretty much blank slab. I began to walk along the base to find that it kept going. It was shorter and hidden in trees but I came across some interesting features that would make for cool trad climbing.
I snapped this picture of the first face I saw and sent it to Yan. He wasn't long in asking where it was and when were we going.
We went up there Saturday morning and had a look. After checking out the entire line of rock, we came back to the first face. There were two lines that looked like easy trad. I had just received 2 new larger cam and was looking forward to using them so I asked to take the sharp end.
There is something extra 'spicy' about being the first to climb a route. There are loose rocks that you don't want to drop on your belayer. Handholds break away, footholds crumble and everything sounds hollow. It is times like these when you think saplings could handle a lead fall.
First Face of the Marine Lab Slabs
The first 15 feet follows flake with a wide gap behind it. It would have been perfect for a 'Big Bro', which I don't have. I managed to find a few placements that allowed me to get to a sizable tree which I slung and then on to the top. It was easy climbing but scary because it was so dirty. I will give it an accurate grade when it is clean but it is probably about 5.5. Regardless I am going to call it "Big Bro".
Yan came up behind me and we made are way to the top of the face, exactly above where the picture is taken. Yan set up a top rope and we checked out this little section. On the far left is a fun easy section that will be a great sport route (5.7ish). We tried two lines up the middle of the face. It was much harder than I expected but it was probably because it was not cleaned yet. It will be moderate slab but not sure where in the grades as we were pulling on little pebbles that were coming off. I like it because we don't have many 'slab' routes on the Avalon.
So it looks like I found myself a new project!
Marine Lab Slab from drone. Smaller faces continue on the right.

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