Whether you realize it or not, the ethics of route development affects all of us. Have you ever been on a route and wondered why the bolts are run out? The flip side, you may feel as if a face has been 'grid bolted'. Both are perfectly fine, even if you don't agree with how the route developer bolted a route.
Some developers bolt for themselves. They put up routes and don't care what others think of it. They may enjoy long run outs or can't be bothered to clean off the choss. They don't consider the danger that other people may get into. These are typically rated as R-rated (injury likely if fall occurs) or X-rated (death likely if fall occurs). There are many people who like this type of climb, it is considered 'spicy'.I develop routes for both myself and the community. I don't want to put up dangerous routes. I want routes that are well protected yet appropriate for the grade. I want routes that help climbers grow. I have never been a big fan of mixed routes (half bolted and half pro) because I don't have the same confidence in a small nut as I do in a 3/8th bolt. It is much worse for someone who doesn't usually place pro and potentially very dangerous.
Climbing areas may already have a strict development ethic. The Gunk's in NY is almost strictly trad. They do have some bolt anchors but all bolts are place by park rangers. Other places such as Rumney, NH are know for their sport climbing routes and your will never place a piece of pro. There are many reasons behind local ethics. Some are good and some...not so good.Flat Rock route development began back in the 1990's. Sport climbing was very young and most climbers still had the traditional style ethics (use natural pro if at all possible). As well, many of the first routes were hand bolted. It takes about an hour to drill one 3/8's hole by hand. This would be motivation enough to minimize placing bolts. This has resulted in mixed routes with fair distances between bolts. They can be quite intimidating.
More classic sport routes began to go up in the mid 2000's and that was about the time I bolted 'Candy'. I really wanted some moderate well protected routes at Main Face. Candy has one crack which can take pro but I wanted to place a bolt near it. This is when I learned about local ethics and that I shouldn't place a bolt because at Flat Rock 'you use natural protection when ever possible'. So that route requires a single piece of pro. I am very happy with the route but I wonder how many noobies have either placed a shitty piece of pro or thought it was a run out.Main Face has been pretty much played out. There are other areas which could support more lines but I believe that the same ethics would be expected. There are current lines which could be improved with a set of top bolts. There are several nice trad lines that could be top roped if there were top bolts. I have a lot of respect for the developers of those routes and likewise the local ethics. I also believe that some well placed bolts could improve the safety and accessibility to the larger climbing community without threatening local ethics.
I would be curious about the communities thoughts.
Noel
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