Comment: 6 Rules

Trevor posted a comment to the "Rules" that I would like to share.

Apart from your protein shake. Do NOT... I repeat, do NOT snack before bedtime. That's a hard one to do but it's quite important.

Question: Does running during rest days not make it a rest day anymore? i mean, you're essentially working different muscles (apart from your heart)

Any suggestions for someone who works sporadically from 4~12 when the gym is open? That works great in the summer so I can get the hell outside, but not so much in the winter. Perhaps I should beg for keys to go along with my membership, lol.

A rest day is a day that you are not doing climbing related training. I train for climbing 4 times per week; Sunday night, Tuesday morning, Wednesday night and Friday morning. Monday, Wednesday and Thursday mornings I train my antagonists, core and aerobic capacity (ie-weight loss). The only day I really take off is Saturday but I still consider Monday and Thursday rest days from climbing.

You are looking for suggestions for training without a gym. The smart ass in me wants to say "Build your own...I did!". I had the same problem, busy at home and work and I new I needed more climbing than 2 times per week. Climbing at home fixed that problem. I built a woody in the garage and I can train there twice per week. I know what you are going to say..."Well, you have a really BIG woody. I couldn't possibly hope to have a woody as big as yours." Putting your insecurities aside, you don't need a huge climbing surface. You can make a climbing panel, 4'x8' or 4'x10', very easily for about 200$. Then get a 'wall in a box' from Metolius via MEC and you can fill the surface with holds. Create a system wall which can provide a killer work out.

You can build a frame for the panel so it is free standing and portable. When I made my first one, I used 3/8 eye screws, placed them at the 7 foot point of the 8 foot panel on the back in the studs. At the same height, I placed eye screws into the wall studs of the garage and fed a static line back and forth the eye screws to make it adjustable. You could set a problem and make it harder just by making it steeper.

The other options are hangboards and rock rings but make sure you warm-up well.