Friday, May 08, 2009

Route Development: Finding the Line

OK so you have found a face you want to develop.  It has great features, it is steep and clean, has a great view of a hot girls backyard.  Now what! 

Generally speaking, you look for that first classic line and then the first easy way up.  Betty (5.3) is a classic line at the Gunks.  It stares at you from a distance.  It is an obvious classic.

Once you have found your classic line, get to the top place an anchor for top rope.  I personally place 2 bolts at the top of the face.  I use these for a TR anchor but once I have bolted the route, they are also used to safely gain the top bolts of the bolted route. 

Begin top roping, climbing several variations of the line until you find one that works the best.  Begin looking for key holds and places for protection unless you want it entirely sport.

Frequently you find features while climbing that you can't see from the ground.  This may alter your intended route.  Be open to these features because they are what makes the route good.

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