Sunday, May 24, 2009

German Engineered 5.8

Jan, Bob, Kim, Tak (Mori) and myself were climbing at our new face on Saturday.  We ascended the fixed line and set up two top ropes on the anchors we put up last time.  We top roped for a bit and then Jan and I decided to start bolting. 

We tied a figure 8 on a bite in the middle of one rope and clipped this into the anchor.  This allowed us to rap on a single strand each.  I lowered first drilling the bolt holes.  Jan came after me cleaning the holes and then placed the bolts.  11 of them over 80 feet.

The climb starts in the left hand corner and follows a series of laybacks and face climbing for the first 35 feet as it trends left.  Then it starts coming back to the right up some ledgy face moves.  The last 8 feet are the crux.  It is a mantle onto a foot wide ledge with poor hands and then a high reach to the belay ledge where you smear your feet to gain the ledge.  The last moves are what gives it a 5.8, the rest of the climb is more like 5.6 to 5.7 climbing.  It is called German Engineered because earlier in the morning, I was razzing Jan about his belay anchor.

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