Tuesday, June 05, 2007

Delayed Gratification 5.10a

Well I finally did it. The rain managed to stop long enough for the face to dry. Bob and I were out this morning and the route fell! I have been waiting about two weeks to send it but our spring weather kept me off it.

The face is in Portugal Cove at the top of Anglican Cemetery Road. The road turns to dirt and leads to Blast Hole Ponds. The face is about 200 meters in from the road and there is a pull out immediately across from the face. I have cut a path through the bush to the base. Gratification starts about 5 meters from the left side arete. There are 3 bolts plus 2 bolts for top anchors. It is about 25 feet high.

The top is easily access by climbing a 5.1 ramp up the left side. Above Gratifications the are two bolts near the edge. One of these can be clipped with a daisy in order to reach the top anchors.

The Anglican Cemetery Face seems a mouth full so I'll just call it the Cemetery Face. In keeping with the morbid theme there is another face up the road that I call the Cold Slab. It has potential for easy trad and slab/face climbing.

A second set of top bolts have been placed to the right of the Cemetery Face. These are above a trad line and a future sport route. The trad line has not been sent yet so please don't lead it. I will post when it goes down (should be soon).

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