We had a discussion on what to grade them. They feel stiff but they are slab climbs. Slab climbs typically feel stiff because of the fall potential. Instead of a nice clean fall it is more like sliding down a cheese grater. I didn't want to inflate the grade and once the routes are dialed in, it doesn't 'feel' as hard. I thought they climbed similarly and close to what Marine Slab is like.
Please try these climbs and comment on what you think the grades should be.
Scar Face 5.9
(Sport 10Meters. 4 Bolts plus anchor: FA J. Peterknecht & N. O'Regan)
Starts on ledge above the start of Marine Slab (can use same start if you want). The first bolt is quite low. The climb starts with a pair of vertical 'cracks' that lead out to the left. If someone falls unprotected at this point, it could be a 15-20 foot fall. This is the reason for the first low bolt! At this point you are below a scar on the face. There was some pretty rotten flakes here that we had to chip off. Find the finger pockets on the horizontal ledge and work to the right to the next vertical 'crack'. Gain a nice foot ledge and then an easy scramble to the top.
Stumped 5.9
(Sport 10Meters. 4 Bolts plus anchor: FA J. Peterknecht & N. O'Regan)
Starts just to the left of a large stump in the base of a crack. Work you way up the blank face til you gain a right hand in the 'crack'. There are three equally spaced foot ledges that allow for good clipping stances. The crux is the top and one crimp helps unlock it.
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