Monday, July 16, 2012

Just Back

Just got back from vacation.  I have been away for 3 weeks.  I know, the blog has been kinda dead.

I am very glad to report that Dave Stack has been to the Hangover and has sent the 2 problems I have bolted.  There are two lines off one set of top bolts.  The one on the left has been named "Thuggy and Juggy" at rated 5.10a.  The second line is to the left and is meant to stay on the face.  The bolts were placed to keep climber from going out onto the arete.  Dave has called it "That's Not Right" and is suggesting a grade of 5.12a.

There is another route on this face called Distorted Perception at about 5.8 but the grade needs to be confirmed.  It is just around the corner (to the right) of That's Not Right.  There are 2 sets of rap anchors placed but I have no intention of bolting the lines.  One is to the left of Thuggy and Juggy.  It would definitely go beyond a 5.12.  The other set is to the right of Distorted Perception above a slight overhang.  I have no idea what it would go at but I got very frustrated trying to get off the ground.  There is easy access to the top by scrambling up a ramp to the right of the face.  There are a set of top anchors at the base of the cliff above Hangover to allow easy rap access to the top bolts.

My attempts at developing Hangover have left me a bit demoralized.  It is hard work developing overhanging routes and then not being able to send them in a reasonable time is like slapping yourself in the face.  It just seems stupid!

I will get back to developing now but I think I will be staying at grades under 5.10.


Kaleb Thomas said...


I know it kinda sucks to put up routes like that, I have similar problems in the gym (different but the same...)

Just wanted to say thanks for going through that effort to make a solid community addition. The province is lacking hard routes, and the addition of that 12 helps round out that area. Much appreciated.

James said...

Those are definitely the two most fun routes I've tried this year, thanks so much for bolting them. They're really unique from anything else we have locally, which I think is great.


Anonymous said...

Good job on the hangover! Didn't try those routes until today, and they are both really nice. Thuggy and juggy is harder than 5.10a, more like c or d and really pumpy (I took a nice fall off the top). That's not right was around 5.12a, though we may have used a different sequence than Dave.

David Bruneau