Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Hangover goes open.

I little bad news for me, possibly some good news for you.  Jan, Walter and myself were out climbing on Saturday.  We went to Noobie Squeeze area and once again I found myself drawn to the Hangover.  The Hangover is the small overhanging face to the right of Noobie Squeeze.  There is one route that sent called Distorted Perception at about 5.8.  I bolted two other routes with a common top anchor.  I was hoping to send the easier of the two (on left) on Saturday but no way.  I figure it is probably a 5.10-.  The route on the right is harder, more like a hard 5.10, possibly 5.11a.
The video shows Kaleb and Terry playing around on them before I had them bolted.  Trust me Terry, it is no 5.7!  Both of these routes are officially open!  If you climb them, you name them and you claim the FA.  Leave me a comment and some details about who was with you and what you think of the climb.

I repeat...The Hangover Face has two projects that are OPEN.


AD3 said...

Hey Noel,

Went out and got on these today with Beth. Climbed the easier left one, felt like hard 9 or easy 10. If no one else has done it yet I'd call it "Thuggy and Juggy".

The right climb was a different story.Got shut down by a really burly and cool crux sequence that I eventually managed to figure out but did not send the whole climb. It certainly felt way harder than 5.10. So I went back and watched the video and noticed that for what I thought was the crux sequence Kaleb reaches way to the right. To me it felt like that was way too far away from where the line of bolts goes almost over into Ditorted Perception, so maybe it was just because he was on top rope and the bolts weren't in yet. Or maybe I was just being an idiot and missing an easier sequence. Time will tell.


AD3 said...

Went back to the Hangover wall with Jamie a while ago. Jamie confirmed the grade of "Thuggy and Juggy" at about 5.10a. Then we started working on the harder line again.

The way the bolts are it definitely makes sense to climb the face instead of the arete to the right. Eventually managed to pull through the crux sequence and get to the top. Calling it "That's not right" and suggesting 5.12a for the grade.