Friday, March 16, 2012


Well it is about that time of the year. Just a few short months until climbing season. This is when I figure I should get in shape.

Leo runs a fantastic adult training group through the gym on Sunday nights. I have taken part every year accept this year. Maybe I am lazy or the planets just didn't line up. I have had 2 major issues with the training schedule in the past. First it is geared toward a climbing competition in April ( Wallnuts website for it). I am not really into climbing in competitions (too old and I just don't care how I climb compared to others). Also, the sessions is aim to peak in April. My climbing season doesn't start until May or June. Hell, I am already back to being in shitty shape by then.

My second issue is that I just don't have time. Most training schedules are aimed at the young. They haves hours to spend doing laps at the gym. They can take a 20 to 30 minute rest between exercises. I am lucky if I can find 60 minutes to workout.

So here is the deal...if you are foolish enough to read my blog about training, I will outline a training schedule. This is geared towards people like my training partners. We only get to the gym once or twice per week and we have only limited gear at home. I figure a short workout at home is better than a kick in the ass.

My intension is to blog the basics of the workouts for the week. I am going to follow the good words of Eric Horst and Leo van Ulden. We will go through 3 macrocycles: endurance, power and power-endurance. Aside from this, you are responsible for getting 3 aerobic sessions per week and 2 antagonist sessions per week. The aerobic session should be at 30 minutes, what ever the exercise. Antagonist exercises should be chest, shoulders and tricepts. Again a 30 minute workout to hit all three muscle groups would be good. I will spell out the climbing workouts only. This is primarily for my climbing partners but you can follow if you want.

I will outline one gym workout and one home workout each week. You have to make sure you are well warmed up before starting the session. I will assume that you have at home a hangboard and several light dumbbells. Ideally you should be training 4 times per week. Minimum would be two times per week. We will do 3 weeks endurance, 3 weeks power and 3 weeks power endurance. This will bring us to mid May and hopefully climbing season. Please watch for weekly workouts.

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