Sunday, August 21, 2011

Nice Bulge 5.10b

Kim and I went up to Noobie Squeeze on Saturday with the intent on bolting my project. When we first got there, we scoped out a short overhung face which looks really promising for some hard terrain, something I have been looking for in Manuels. We briefly considered putting some bolts into that face but then decided to go with our original plan.

We climbed and cleaned Ankle Biter to get to the top bolts, which are also the top bolts of my project. As Kim lowered me off, I worked the crux moves to figure out the bolt placements. Then I bolted it (10 new bolts). As it turned out, I finished in time to give it a burn.
It starts on Noobie Squeeze using the first 3 bolts to get to ledge below the main part of the climb. Use long draws here to reduce rope drag. Once on the ledge, the Bulge bolts start about 15 feet right of the Noobie bolts. It follows the fairly vertical face climbing in the 5.8 range until it ends under the bulge. There are good feet and underclings to get a bit of a rest before going into the crux. The first moves require the use of slopers with hidden edges. Then find the crimp out left. The feet are hard to find because the bulge hides them. Use the left crimp and the right slopers to gain another crimp higher up. Pull through as your feet try to find a bit of purchase. Above the bulge it is a bit of moderate slab climbing (5.6ish) until you reach the top bolts.

Prior to working the route for the bolts, I would have considered the Crux to be 5.10d. I figured out a sequence that made me re-evaluate the grade. I sent to on my first try. I felt really stoked about that. I would appreciate feedback on what other climbers think the grade of this climb may be.

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