Saturday, July 30, 2011

Climbing Thieves

Bob and I went climbing this morning. We had been talking about retro bolting a couple of routes we developed in 2007. They were long trad lines but to be honest, they were scary because of poor options for placements. We have put up a lot of sport lines since and looking back, we figured we should bolt them for safety. These climbs are Noobie Squeeze (5.7) and Ankle Biter (5.6). There are a couple other lines on this faces called Lady and the Ramp (5.5) which allows access to the top and Arborist (5.7). These are all on Noobie Squeeze Face, the one people pass belo
w to get to German Wall (before you go downhill into the cut line).

Somebody has stolen some fixed gear off the face!!! The first 3 hangers have been taken off Lady and the Ramp and the rap anchors were taken off the top of Arborist. I really hope who ever took those hangers were not climbers, that would be a slap in the face. If it is climbers, I really hope this doesn't happen again and this is something that should be strongly discourage in our community.

Anyhow, we spent the morning bolting and now Noobie Squeeze and Ankle Biter are 90 foot sport climbs. They both took about 13 bolts plus top anchors. Much more terrain to develop on this face. So this face has three 90 foot sport climbs under 5.7. The next line I am looking at here will probably be in the 10's.

If you hadn't noticed, Bob and I can't make up our mind what to develop. We are currently working on 4 walls in Manuels: Upper Face, Baby Face, Wall of Possibilities and Noobie Squeeze. Maybe Kim will straighten us out (not likely!!).


AD3 said...

Seems unlikely to me that it would have been climbers. The community is just too small, they would not be able to use the stolen gear in public. I'd say its more likely it was just a random person who thought it was just stuff left there.


Adam Gale said...

Either way, it is still unfortunate. I've scouted that area but I'm yet to climb there. Cheers for the development of the area.