Climbing Thieves

Bob and I went climbing this morning. We had been talking about retro bolting a couple of routes we developed in 2007. They were long trad lines but to be honest, they were scary because of poor options for placements. We have put up a lot of sport lines since and looking back, we figured we should bolt them for safety. These climbs are Noobie Squeeze (5.7) and Ankle Biter (5.6). There are a couple other lines on this faces called Lady and the Ramp (5.5) which allows access to the top and Arborist (5.7). These are all on Noobie Squeeze Face, the one people pass belo

w to get to German Wall (before you go downhill into the cut line).

Somebody has stolen some fixed gear off the face!!! The first 3 hangers have been taken off Lady and the Ramp and the rap anchors were taken off the top of Arborist. I really hope who ever took those hangers were not climbers, that would be a slap in the face. If it is climbers, I really hope this doesn't happen again and this is something that should be strongly discourage in our community.

Anyhow, we spent the morning bolting and now Noobie Squeeze and Ankle Biter are 90 foot sport climbs. They both took about 13 bolts plus top anchors. Much more terrain to develop on this face. So this face has three 90 foot sport climbs under 5.7. The next line I am looking at here will probably be in the 10's.

If you hadn't noticed, Bob and I can't make up our mind what to develop. We are currently working on 4 walls in Manuels: Upper Face, Baby Face, Wall of Possibilities and Noobie Squeeze. Maybe Kim will straighten us out (not likely!!).

Routes for mid level climber

Mike left a comment on the last post about routes for mid level climbers. Flatrock is a must because of its location. Look into Candy (5.7), and consider TR Yellow Fever, Seascape. Spanky's Playground has a couple of cool moderates. I can't remember the names but there are 4 routes that ascend in difficulty, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 and a 5.10. I am sure one of them is called Taming the Shrew.

Personal favorites found on this blog include:

Tach Auch

German Engineered

Obsession

Noobie Squeeze

Delayed Gratification

Grateful Dead

Before and After

I came across these two pictures looking for something else. I thought it was a fairly impressive contrast. These are pictures of the route Candy. The first is from 2009 and the second from this summer.

I got an email from an Ex-pat Newfoundlander, Karen. Her and her boyfriend are coming back to NL in August for a visit. He sounds like he is a seasoned climber and she will be doing a lead course prior to their visit. So here is the question: If you had a climber friend visiting from away, what would be the ideal day to get a taste of Newfoundland climbing? What routes would you suggest? Send me your comments.

I'm Back!!!

Sorry for not posting but I have been on vacation. I spent one week in Barcelona and one week doing a European Cruise thru Italy. Absolutely awesome except the kids wold not stop fighting.

I will post a few pics when I download them.

I was talking to Leo and Phil before I left. We will try to arrange some retro bolting in Flat Rock before they go out west climbing. Keep tabs for more info.