6 Simple Rules

Once again, it is training time. Leo is about to start up the adult training night (adult as in old people not bumping uglies in harnesses) and the indoor 'season' is to start in earnest. For what ever reason, I end up trying to develop a training schedule to complement what Leo is going to do.

There are some basic rules to follow when taking on such an enterprise. Some are just stupid easy and other are a little more convoluted.

Stupid Rules:

1. Climb More Some people can't figure out why they can't break a plateau. They have been climbing 5.9 for a year and can't get beyond it. The problem is that they climb once or twice per week. That is enough to maintain but not improve. Most of us should be training 3-4 times per week.
2. De-Chub I know it is ugly, not politically correct or whatever, but weight and gravity don't mix. You ever try doing pull-ups with added weight maybe 10 or 20 pounds. It makes a huge difference. You can only get 3 or 4 when you could usually get 10 to 15. It works in the opposite direction! Plus it is a hell of a lot easier to loose weight than gain strength. Not all of you can de-chub because you are already too damn skinny. If you can pinch more than an inch, think about weight loss strategies.
3. Try Harder Obvious?...or not. Most people at the gym go in and warm up on some easy stuff. Jump on their project after chatting awhile. Lay down on the mats while watching some one try to send then maybe another route. Pretty half-assed. Time is precious, use your climbing session as a work out not a social networking opportunity. Go in with a plan and come out sweating and burning.

Convoluted Rules

1. Rest Better What the f....? What is resting better? When you are training hard, you are physically breaking down tissues and using up energy stores. If you don't allow time for repair and replenishment, you begin to push a starved body. That when you get injured or stop seeing training gains. Your body rebuilds itself as you sleep, repairing muscle strains, restoring glycogen and a bunch of other things your body needs. So...rest at least 24 hours between training sessions longer if it was an intense session or you are working power. Get 8 hours of sleep a night (don't burn the candle at both ends). Have protein before going to bed. All that repair and restoration is done much better if the nutrients are readily available.
2. Train Smarter Learn about periodization training. I will not try to explain this now. I have in the past and it is documented in many places. But it does make you have a schedule and a plan to follow. If you have a half-assed approach to training you get half-assed results.
3. Paradigm Shift It is time to change your whole word, or at least the way you think about it. The power of the mind is incredible and frequently under-estimated. The mental game in climbing is huge but it is also big with training. You ever jump on a climb for a possible flash ascent. It is hard and crimpy, stiffer than what you expected but do-able. You might have even fallen once or twice but you come down thinking next time it is mine. Then you check the board...oh shit! You tried the wrong route and the one you almost flashed is 2 grades harder than your usual redpoint. AWESOME. This happened because you thought you should be able to climb this, it is within your range, when it actually is the hardest thing you ever jumped on. Your mind set was that you were going to climb well, so you did. To train harder, we all need to loose the paradigm we have of ourselves and jump on everything. Having a positive attitude is important as well. The Rock Warriors Way is a great read into the mental working of rock climbing.

Wholly Shit! Talk about a tangent. I was going to post what I developed for a training schedule and all I did was go on about some rules. Well that 'OK' the real training starts on Sunday. See ya there!

Wall of Possibilities

Bob is pathetic! Almost as pathetic as me. Last month, he took it upon himself to go bushwacking around the German Face and the Upper Faces. With no leaves on the trees he was able to get a much better look at the rocks. He was like a kid in a candy store telling me about all the possibilities.

Bob actually named this photo as the Wall of Possibilities, but I think the name will stick to the wall.

This is the left side of the upper faces. The notch in the trees at the right of the picture unveils the 'roof' I can't wait to get to (see prev posts). That dead vertical face continues for about another 100 meters (roughly). The lines will vary in height from 40 to 80 feet and they look pretty clean. One nice thing about shorter faces is that they are quicker to bolt.

Great Response

This picture was taken in late August. Bob and I were pretty amazed by this. Most climbers looking at this would think that it looks just like any other belay area at the base of a wall. And I guess it is. The reason that it kinda freaks me out is that 3 months prior to this picture, no one had climbed on this face. We cleaned up the base, trimmed the trees and such, but without a lot of travel, it starts getting overgrown fairly quick. Having such a well developed base testifies to how much this wall is getting used...awesome!

Bob and I are kinda conflicted about next summer. There are 2 area's that we want to look at next (German Face is played out). Noobie Squeeze is a trad area about 300 meters before German Face. You pass under it on the way. There are a couple of routes we want to solidify with some bolts and a lot of potential. One is a small but severely overhanging face which I have been staring for a couple of years. The other is a section of rock that starts vertical and slowly becomes overhung, it kinda looks like a wave.

The other area is starting the upper faces. There is the roof that I am somewhat obsessed with and numerous vertical faces just waiting. Bob is looking to get a drill so we should be able to double our productivity. (7 routes this year...14 plus next?). As well, Matt, Trevor and Paul have a new drill. They might be able to tear themselves away from Flat Rock to set a route or two inland. We will see?!?

Lost and Found

"Giver" chalk bag left at my place. Please leave comments as to who's it is.

Trevor's post

Trevor was good enough to post a comment about the Viagra Classic on the collective blog. He posted a picture of Danny DeVito, in reference to my good looks....Thanks.

My reply'

Danny DeVito ehh. Bald short fat guy!!! This is how these young whipper snippers think of me! Well I am going to take my daily dose of Geritol, start doing some dips on my walker, get the tight fitting Attends and start some serious training. The next time you see me pulling down, it won't be just the Parkinson's making shake...HARD EFFORT! And after my 15 minute session (Doctor recommended), I will down my post-work out energy drink (Ensure) and dream of the day I summit the stairs.

WATCH OUT!!!!

Hiene Stikes Again

The Viagra Classic II went ahead last night. There was about 8 of us. Notably some regular partners were absent. I think the Hiene (H1N1) got them. There are other bugs going around that aren't H1N1 but you can't really tell so everyone is staying home.

We had a great time. 22 problems set up in the garage ranging from V0 to V6 or better. I was great to see Kaleb, Matt and Pat get spanked. Flip side is that these problems are taunting me. They had one night to send, I have all winter. Matt said that should keep working them until get them. That could be a retirement project!

Trevor had his camera and I am hoping he will post something I can embed into the blog (hint-hint Trev).

I have heard so encouraging stuff about Rumney in the spring so I will be there. That will be my training for winter.