Sunday, October 11, 2009

Periodization

Periodization is training in cycles or periods. Each cycle concentrates on one aspect training. Typically the cycles go thru endurance, strength and power endurance. Each cycle is done for a few weeks. This can vary depending on your goals. In general, I like 3 week blocks.
Endurance is a good place to start. It eases you back into a new cycle. It conditions your tendons and ligaments for the strain of climbing. Muscles that may have been on vacation for a while are gently put back to work. Mentally it is a good place to start as well. You are not beating yourself up for not climbing as hard as you did at the end of your last cycle (for me about 6 months ago).
There are a number a ways to train for endurance. It all has to do with being on the wall for a long time. It can be intervals of 10 minutes or biner carrier...what ever. When training endurance, try NOT to get that deep burning pain (ie- when you are flaming at the end of a route).

Work-out of the Day (WoD)
Pitches- Starting with the Lowest grade, climb as many different routes in ascending difficulty as possible in a given time (90 min). If you begin to burn start working back down the grades. If you want, post the number of pitches you got in in 90 minutes (assuming you are swapping pitches with a partner).

1 comment:

Trevor Harris said...

I've been following your training schedule... not necessarily on the same nights, but just on a week by week basis. Hope you keep your schedule and progress up!