Well it is time to start training again. I have had a fair bit of time off and I am itchnig to get back to it.
First Cycle: Endurance x 3 weeks
Climb four times per week. Repeat as many interval in your session as time will allow.
Work out one- 10 minute interval of easy climbing. Climb at least 2 grades below your onsight level. Climb the specific route and downclimb all holds. Don't touch the floor...stay on the wall for the whole 10 minutes.
Work out two- 10 minute intervals. 1 grade below onsight. Climb and lower for 10 minutes.
Work out three- 10 minutes or exhaustion. 2 grades below onsight sport route. Climb to second clip then lower. Climb to third and lower. Forth and lower until you hit anchors then repeat sequence. For harder challange, clip with the left hand on first set and right hand on second.
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