Saturday, August 04, 2007

Noobie Squeeze 5.7 Trad

Just awesome! Bob, myself and Kim went out to Manuels today and I finally sent the trad line I started in the spring.
Kim was concerned that she was a 'noobie' but we were thrilled to have her out. This climb was meant for her, or someone just like her. She has plenty of gym experience and needs some good moderate ground to get her feet wet.
Noobie Squeeze follows a nice arcing crack for the first 30 feet. Just above that is a bolt prior to getting into a wide corner.
Once in the corner, the stemming is solid but at the top are a couple of hollow sounding blocks which I don't trust to pro so I placed a second bolt at the top of the corner just prior to a small roof. This is the squeeze and the crux.
Easy climbing to the top belay bolts.
This climb is well protected with plenty of gear opportunities.
Most the route is 5.5 climbing except the corner and the squeeze which is solid 5.7. It is about 90 feet (about 28 meters).
Kim loved the route and she had a blast on Bobs project which he will send soon.

1 comment:

Bill W said...

Sorry, I couldn't make it last Saturday. Looks as if I missed a good one. You planning to publish the directions to this climb? I'm sure we pass that cliff on our way to Holyrood. We'd like to give this one a try.

Norm and I were out at the Holyrood Slab last night (Wed). Great night for climbing. You guys ever go out that way?