Saturday, August 25, 2007

Ankle Biter 5.6

Congratulations to Bob!!! Today he sent is 2 year project 'Ankle Biter'. He has had a certain single mindedness about this project all summer. Last May he tried a first ascent of this climb and fell. He broke his ankle and was out for most of the season last year.
The first thing Bob wanted to develop this year was the line that broke his ankle. It took Bob a lot more that just cleaning the line and finding placements, that was the easy stuff. As anyone knows, after a bad fall or injury, it is really hard to get you confidence back. Many leave the sport after a bad fall... not Bob.
Bob fought to get his lead head back. He honed his trad skills and climbed the line enough to approach it with confidence. He earned this one and his smile showed it.
Ankle Biter (5.6) is about 90 feet long, starting on an arete with shallow crack up to a treed ledge (the site of the dreaded fall) 20 feet up. The it follows a well featured head wall to the anchors. There is plenty of pro eating placement though one or two spots where cams less than 1.5cm come in handy. The top has a rap anchor (3/8 rap ring ties two).

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