Thursday July 27 Bouldering Session

Ok, ignore most of that last post, i've changed some of my plans and am going to do the thing this week.

I think the best bet would be to meet at wallnuts between 5:30 and 6:00 so we can leave there at 6:00 sharp ( this should allow people who work till 5:00 to come? does anybody have 9-5 jobs, i wish i did).

I'm thinking the marine lab as a first destination, it has a wide range of difficulty for problems as well as alot of problems in the v0-v3/4 range. Also it's a location that can be very difficult to figure out what problem is what on your own.

2nd destination will probably be flatrock and they I am thinking the Vacation Boulders for some barrens fun.

of course if there is a alot of disagreement those can be changed.

Um...anyway, hopefully enough people with cars will come that we can drive everyone out, if there is more room in cars than there is people than we can leave some cars at wallnuts and drop the owners bad there after to save on gas 'n' stuff.

So i guess thats about it, i hope to put a poster up in wallnuts soon for it.

also! i am in no way responsible for the safety of anyone attending. I'm just going climbing at a place and if anyone else wants to climb there at the same time that's up to them.

i am not a guide.


hope that covered everthing...Dave

Bouldering Delays

Sorry about not getting things off the ground for the weekly outdoor bouldering sessions yet.
I got a new job with strange hours and management are very lax with giving us our schedules so i've been unable to plan anything. I was hoping to be able to finally do it this week but i just got my schedule today and there doesn't seem to be any good time to do it. So... fingers crossed that sometime next week we'll be able to have our first session. I'm looking forward to it.

A Good Day

I had a really good day before it started raining. Jay and I were out at 9:00 am and the first thing we did were these three routes. I can't remember the name of the first route but it was about a 5.10c. The middle route it No Freebies (I think) rated at 5.10b. The third route is called Menage et Trois is also a mid 5.10.

The first one had a hard crux with an undercling and a crimp then reaching high for a jug. Menage et Trois was a lot of fun moving off the roof and had a lot of variations.

After those, Jay did Magie in fine style and I TR'd Yellow Fever, scarlet Fever and Sea Scape. I had only done Yellow Fever prior to today. 5 new routes for me. I am especially happy because this is the first year I have climbed beyond 5.10a outdoors.

Top Anchor

I have bee meaning to post something on my top anchor for a while. I use a long length of 11mm static line (80 feet). A 10 foot length of 1 inch tubular webbing is over the 11mm line and placed in the center. A figure 8 on a bight creates the power point for the top anchor.


Each 'leg' of the 11mm line is attached to a single bomb proof anchor such as a bolt, large tree or a unified pro anchor. The webbing sheath protects the rope as it runs over a ledge, protects the knot from abrasion and provides redundancy at the power point.

This is my most frequently used piece of equipment outdoors. The static line is much tougher and resistant to abrasion than a dynamic rope. I find it faster and safer to set up top anchors. Most important...It is damn strong.

The original article suggested using a 50 foot length of line and 4 feet of webbing. I thought this may not be long enough for some of the anchor placements at Blood Bath and Prossers Rock. I was also concerned that less than 2 feet webbing to protect the rope over an edge might not be enough so I went with the lengths described above. 50 feet probably would have been fine. I have more than enough length for the anchors and I end up hauling around excessive rope.

The webbing could also be a bit shorter. The webbing sheath sides on the rope (above the figure 8) when you pull on it as in when your are lowering onto rappel or topping out.

This anchor system is excellent and is relatively easy to use. Remember, personal instruction is always better than something you have read off "the net". Ask people what they use and why.

Paging Don Keidick

"Paging Don Keidick" is the new 5.10b/c on Main Face towards the left end just before the waters edge. This route was bolted by Jason Wall in early June and the first ascent was by Leo VanUlden later that week.

Donkey Dick is a great 5.10 with 25-27 meters of climbing. It is well protected with 12 bolts plus top anchors. The opening moves are difficult and kind of bouldery. Then you traverse left over the edge of a ceiling to an arete. The left side is followed up on nice thin ledges and pulls for the first half. It is 5.9 to 5.10a moves on slightly positive terrain. Then the climb becomes vertical and the moves get harder.

Becareful...kamikaze seagulls live near by. One pair of climbers got seriously dive bombed as they approached the anchors.

This route has seen a good number of assents since it was established. Everyone agrees that it has great flow and sequence, logically and safely bolted and that it is an instant classic sport route.

Topsail Head Bluff

Topsail Head Bluff over looks Topsail Head Beach. This is the first of two bluffs of about equal size. At first look it appears kind of choppy but the upper half may have some good sport lines. The bottom half may also be alright.

This shot is taken from the parking lot and it is very accessible. I hope to check it out next week.

More new routes.

Main Face as seen several new routes go up over the last month. Jason has bolted new starts to at least 2 routes which were damaged by rock fall several years ago. He also put up the a new mid 5.10 sport. Leo made the first ascent in mid June and it has seen many repeats since. 12 bolts over 25 meters. That is one of my projects for the summer.

Leo and I have been eyeing 2 new routes towards Iron Hand Wall. One will be an easy 5.6 sport and the other in the 5.11 range.

Leo hopefully will be putting these routes in the new guide book. Still no word on when that may be finished.

A Blog!

Well it seems more like this is becoming my own personal blog!?! I haven't been in the gym regularly since May. There hasn't been anything to update on the board and everybody is too busy climbing.

SO...I will just carry on as if the Avalon Climbing Club was more than me posting on this Blog.
Other people have access to post to this blog so there may be more posts from people other than me.

Noel