Wednesday, September 11, 2024

What Lies Beneath 5.9

 Our second route of the season and Jan sent the FA on this fun little climb. As previously mentioned, we have been doing a lot of face cleaning this summer. I wanted to get rid of loose dirty and pebbles off of Big Bro. Big Bro follows a fairly bare slab but with huge flakes. About 10 feet to the left was this over-grown corner that I figured was just going to be soaked. Jan thought it looked interesting and started digging while I worked on Big Bro. He uncovered some nice features which provided some nice climbing.

We had a hard time with the grade. The bottom climbs easy (5.7 to 5.8) following the corner with some stemming, until you get to the 3rd bolt. The 4th is just below an awkward bulge that forces you to traverse slightly to the right but still solid 5.8 climbing. The 5th bolt is at the crux and there is one obvious stone to be used for a foot but sloper slab for hands and smearing for feet make for a heady move. Definitely a harder move than 5.8 and we felt that a 5.8 climber would out of their comfort level. Please comment on what you think of the grading.



No comments: