We were out at Bone Yard cleaning again, but this time we had Michael with us. The extra help was awesome (thanks). We were hoping to drop a couple of loose blocks and then do some route finding.
We setup static lines over the area we were cleaning and over the overhang. Michael really likes the overhang. The Rock Climbing gods had something else in mind for us.
There is a lot of work involved in opening a new area. It is usually enjoyable being outside and cutting a new trail or assessing new lines. Then there are things that are just hard work...like cleaning a face. This usually involves removing loose rocks, vegetation, dirt and other debris. We use wire brushes, crowbars and small tools to get into constricted areas. Nobody wants this stuff falling on them while they climb.
Every now and again, we get to do some fun cleaning. There was a line we were interested in but it seemed like a couple of blocks may have been loose. To see if they really are loose, we will use big prybars and/or car jacks to see if they will wiggle...It wiggled. Now there is no turning back, we can't leave a loose block. We worked on this block for over an hour and finally it tumbled off. It struck two other blocks on the way down and changed the entire middle half of the climb. It was by far the biggest rock fall I have witnessed.
While we were working, I noticed the block I was standing on shifted. We had another block to remove. This one came easy as it had been supported by the other block we knocked off. I didn't have my camera ready for the first one, but I got it ready for the second.
The video shows Jan prying off the second block. It was about 1/3rd the size of the first one and didn't hit any other blocks...but it was still impressive.
The rock is a mix of quartz and granite and is very stable. It is well featured with small ledges and side pulls. We climbed up the middle and had a blast. There is room for about 4 or 5 routes on this face. It is roughly 70-80 feet high (bottom 1/4 not in the pic) and 40ish feet wide.
I made a video (below) when I was lowered off. If i continue to make videos, I may need to get a Go-Pro.
Our first route at the Boneyard is a fun and interesting corner. This route starts on a ledge, at the bottom of a ramp on the south side of the bluff. Below the ledge is a 15 foot drop so be mindful. Currently, there is a fixed line down the ramp to help with access.
It is roughly 50-60 feet in a near 90 degree corner. There are 6 bolts on the right face leading up to anchors. The corner itself has a lot of vertical flakes poking out providing lots of possible hand and foot positions for stemming. It does feel like it maybe slightly overhanging making it feel more challenging. The corner runs out around the 4th bolt and with face climbing to the anchors.
Jan was climbing when he said something about being out of options. I wasn't sure what he was talking about but if he was talking about the climb, I disagreed. I muttered to myself, "There is nothing but options."
Jan and I just bolted and sent our first line on a new face we are calling the Boneyard. I haven't posted about this face in a long time as we have been more focused on Marine Slabs but we have been chipping away at it.
The rock is very similar to German Face but the lines are much longer, mostly in the 60-80 foot range. There is one line, which will be moderate, that is over 100 feet. This face also has 2 significant overhangs and plenty of vertical. We have 5 set of top bolts over anticipated lines with likely another 15 - 20 possible lines.
Access is off the TCH just prior to the Foxtrap Access turnoff. There is a woods road that can be driven with a 4x4 capable vehicle for about 500m. It is another 500m from the end of this road. We are currently working on trail development and will have it well posted.
We are calling this Boneyard because at the end of the woods road where we park, there is a lot of scattered bones. I assume that somebody shot a moose and butchered it on that spot.
Oh, by the way, did I mention that there are another 5 or 6 faces, about the same size, between German Face and Boneyard along the Conway Brook Valley. Let me know if you are interested in developing!
