Bolting Ethics on the Avalon

 I wanted to write a post about bolting ethics as I expect to invite keen climbers interested in developing and bolting to a few new areas. One of the most important reasons I started developing new area's was ethics. There has been tons written about ethics and climbing. Most sources tend to agree (example) but there is always local 'rules' that need to be observed. I do not like some of our local ethics that have been long standing, mostly in the Flat Rock Area.

Main Face development started in the early 80's (if not before). Cordless Hammer Drills had yet been invented so bolt holes had to be drilled by hand. It would take about an hour to drill one hole. The result was runouts and mixed routes. You would only place a bolt if you really needed to so only the crux was well protected. If there was any chance to use protection, it would save yet another bolt hole.

There has also been a fair number of ego trips that have caused problems. One guy bolted a climb for himself...and no one else. He was tall and strong, so the first bolt was about 20 feet off the deck as that suited him. He didn't care whether the route was X-rated or if anyone hurt themselves. 

We also had a 'bolt war' in the late 90's/early 2000's. Top rope bolts were chopped from several spots as one person felt that they were dangerous (or poorly placed). The most chill rock climbers can become the biggest assholes if you dare challenge the bolting ethics.

I am the first to admit that I not a strong climber and Main Face scares the living shit out of me. When I was learning to climb, back in 1996, Flat Rock Area was pretty much the only established climbing area. The first route I bolted (Candy, Mainface), I had several people showing me the 'ropes' (pun intended) regarding how to bolt routes. The original line only had 6 bolts, including tope anchors. There was a horizontal crack halfway up which could take pro, so taking my mentors advised me to spaced the bolts to accommodate the crack. That always bugged me that it wasn't a full sport route as I felt it would have been 'safer', but I wanted to follow the established ethics. 

There are so many things I love about finding and establishing new climbing area's but one of the most important aspects is establishing the ethics for the crag. My ethics have changed over the years but mostly consistent with fun and safety. I want to feel secure on the climb, comfortable top anchors with no 'restricted' or 'X-rated' routes. They are routes I would enjoy climbing and I would feel good about my own kids climbing. In other words, bolt for the community.

Jan and Noel's General Bolting Considerations:

1. No mixed routes. A route should either be fully bolted or completely trad...aside from top anchors. There are many ways to learn trad without placing your first piece on a mixed route with ground fall potential.
2. Safe access. You shouldn't have to risk your life getting to the base of a climb, retreating or setting a tope rope (if appropriate). We typically will place 2 bolts well above the top of sport routes. Initially, we use these for fixed lines while developing/cleaning the face but also allows a secure point to gain access to the top bolts to setup a TR.
3. Bolt for the grade. When bolting a 5.7 climb, we place bolts for a climber who's red point limit is 5.7. This has caused complaints about over-bolting in the past, but these complaints have come from 5.12 climbers. We didn't bolt it for them! The 5.7 climbers are quite happy with the route.
4. Protect the crux. It is scary when working a crux knowing that there will be a long or possibly painful fall. We identify the crux of a route, decide the best place for a bolt to protect the crux and then consider the remaining bolts. 
5. Safe spacing of bolts. We try to place bolts roughly every ten feet. It maybe tighter through a crux section or spaced out on a section that is significantly easier than the posted grade (also no ground fall potential).
6. First bolt. This one can be tricky. If it is too low, it is pointless. It should be high enough to serve the purpose of avoiding injury if you were to fall on it (ie bouldering height). Some first bolts are very high with the intent of using a stick clip. We don't expect everyone to have a stick clip. Our first bolt is usually at 10 to 15 feet depending on the terrain and clipping position. If the initial climbing is easy for the grade, then it will more likely be higher.
7. Second bolt. This is the most important bolt in many cases because of the risk of ground fall. Consider this scenario. The first bolt is 15 feet up and then the second 10 feet above. If a person falls with the 2nd bolt (not clipped) at their waist, it is a ground fall. If they try to clip lower with the bolt above their head, it is still a ground fall because of the required slack. Lets lower the 2nd bolt to 5 feet away from the first and like most of us, you are clipping just about your face level. This results in the first bolt just below your waist with about 5 feet of slack in the system above that bolt. If a climber falls prior to clipping, it is still a ground fall potential. 5 feet of slack results in a 10 foot fall plus the 30% elasticity (3 feet) for a total of 13 foot fall on a bolt that is 15 feet up. We keep the second bolt 'close' to the first for a reason.
8. Clip with your elbows. We hope that our efforts are enjoyed by the community so we plan on all types of people to climb our routes. We place bolts in a manner that when you are in a clipping position, the bolt placement should be within reach...of your elbow. This doesn't always happen but it does limit over reaching.

I hope this doesn't sound to 'preachy' but I do want to promote a safe climbing community.