Today Jan, Quinn and I were climbing these.
The top bolt to the left (closer to the point) was over a line I thought would be stupid easy, and it was. I didn't count on the runout at the top. I had 4 pieces in on a 100 foot route. I guess the belay was optional.
The other set of bolts are over a couple of cool cracks, but one in particular was wide and deep. This one also got a little thin at the top. Jan describe being 'in' the crack as needing total body engagement.
Access: Take Cobblers Path to the point. The path leads down to the right. Carefully pick your way along the ledges. **You can access the top bolts on the path above. Take note and find the base of each climb.
Belay is Optional 5.2 R
(Trad 30 meters: Top bolts; FA J. Peterknecht; N. O'Regan)
Start up easy slab to a large ledge. Head to the 'nose' like feature (points to Lt). Limited placements for last 40 feet.
Total Body Engagement 5.4
(Trad 30 Meters: Top botls: FA A J. Peterknecht; N. O'Regan)
Follow the ramp feature until you see a 6-12 inch wide crack that goes up then left. Come back right and continue up to the left of the bulge. Use the hueco features to get over the bulge. Top bolts straight up from there.
Jan (in orange) at the bottom of Total Body Engagement (5.4) belaying Quinn. |