Friday, November 30, 2007
Sunday Night Course
Leo is talking about starting a sunday night training course for adults. It will focus on a periodization training schedule, similar to what I do now. It will be from 8pm to 11 or 12pm and will include training sessions, stretching and sport specific training. I think it will be a great motivator.
Thursday, November 22, 2007
For Bill
Power Period- 3 weeks
You should be climbing hard 3 times per week, 1 to 2 sport specific exercise work out per week and 2 antagonistic work out per week.
Examples of power work outs;
Examples of power work outs;
- Pyramids- Choose a hard red point. Climb first three moves, rest less tan 30 sec, climb first 4, rest, first 6, rest first 8 (or top out), rest the first 4. That would be one set. An alternative would be to use the same route but do the last 3 moves, then last 4, last6, then from base.
- Four by fours- Find 2 routes on the same wall. One should be a hard red point and the other 2 grades below. Climb the hard then immediately the easy (this is a 'rest') , back to the hard with out rest and finish on the easy.
- Bouldering
- HIT strips
- System training
- Hangboards.
- Campus board.
Sport specific training would include weighted pull ups, bentover row, dumbell row, bicept curls, core exercises, wrist curls. Reps should be in the 4 to 6 range except wrist curls which should be 10 to 15. Do 3 to 5 sets of each. Finish off with a hangboard or rock rings routine.
Antagonist training would include bench press, push ups, dips, tricept curls, shoulder press, lateral raise ect. Reps should be 8 to 10 with 3 sets.
If you are above ideal body weight (pinch more than an inch) diet smartly and run 30 min 3 times per week...I am in this group.
100th Post
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)