Study of Form

This image called "Study of Form" was downloaded from rockclimbing.com. They have a huge image gallery which is certainly worth looking at.

I think this picture is great. Powerful and calm.

Check out the route data base as well. Bob and I have been putting our FA's in there and there are a good number of classics already posted.

Just curious!?!

Anyone who has gone out to Prosser's Rock on the South Side Hill must pass this face I am curious about. It is about 100 feet wide and anywhere from 40 to 80 feet. The thing about it is that it is almost dead flat, meager features and overhanging about 25 degrees. There are a couple of diagonal cracks but look shallow.
On closer inspection, there are a few vertical discontinuous cracks and dubious face features. I think you would have to be pretty fit to tackle this face. There are a couple spots where an old fart like me might be able to give it a go. If you know this face or are just curious, have a look for possible lines. If you know someone who has tried to climb it, even better.

Rope Chopping

Someone recently asked me why I cut my rope. The main reason is convenience. Hauling around a 60 meter rope can be a pain, especially when the vast majority of climbs are less than 15 meters. It is also alot easier to bring to the gym.
About 75% of the routes at Flatrock can be top roped with a 30 meter rope. This has come in very handy. I have had ropes set up on Candy and Iron Hand at the same time. The only problem is the other 25% of the routes. I guess I will have to buy a second rope...darn!
Actually I always have 2 ropes. I keep the full rope for two years before I chop it. It doesn't see as much action as the cut ropes. I use the chopped ropes for about two years before I retire them. Usually they need to be retired.

Omega Pacific Linkcam

Well I think the Linkcam will be my next bit of trad gear to buy. Quite honestly I have never been a big fan of Omega Pacific. I have thought of them as being on the "bargin bin" end of climbing gear. Don't trust your life to the bargin bin.

I have talked to a few people who use OP and don't have any major problems.

So...why would I think of buying the Linkcam if I don't like OP. The Linkcam does have a bit of a niche and it is the vast range the cam has. The smaller has a range of 0.83 to 2.10 inches and the larger has a range of 0.96 to 2.51 inches. That is about the same range a about 4 consecutive cams of standard types.

This is good for two situations. First is the sphincter twitcher. When you have a less than ideal grip and you have one quick chance for a placement, you don't want to fumble with the correct size. The other situation is when you are on a long trad route and you have used up most your cams. This one should fit just about anything.

Then there is the most obvious reason...I like new toys. But it that reason enough, the thing cost about 100$ a pop!!!

Yellow Fever Ledge

I am starting to get anxious for summer. Jay and Bob on the ledge.

Coincidence

I spent the weekend in Banff for a conference. I was quite surprised to find out that the place I was staying had converted a squash court into a climbing gym. I had to go check this place out and get some training in.
Mike Quigley was the guy working and I had to get my "belay test" from him. After, we started together. I told him where I was from and he says "You wouldn't happen to kow this guy. I met him in Mexico. Jay something....". It turns out that Jay and him climbed together for a couple of weeks. Like Jay, this guy takes his climbing pretty serious. Curently he is training for a trip to Nepal next summer.
Jay spoke highly of Newfoundland climbing and he is totally stoked about coming out here some day. He was very interstested in getting out to Devils Bay.
It is a small (climbing) world.

Power Training

Tonight is a power training night. Warm up as usual with technical endurance. Find a truely difficult project,boldering or route. Try some progressives.

Progressive: First 3 moves of problem. Not first hand holds but first MOVES. Shake out and then the first 3 again. Shake and work the 3 to 4th move. Shake out and then the first 4 moves. Then the first 6 moves. Then 8 if possible. Finish with the first 3 moves. If you are able to climb beyound 8 moves in a row then the problem is not hard enough. If you cannot get pas the first 4 moves that is OK, just repeat the first for for the total number of sets.

Try to do progressives on 3 to 5 different problems.

Finish the workout with a Rock Ring workout. For those with attitude...do three sets of frenchies after the rock rings.

Power Training

Psych Test!

Leo discussed a concept directly out of "The Rock Warriors Way". It had primarily to do with possibilities and positive thinking.

Tough climbs are hard and can be mentally defeating. "That hold is shit." "I can't stick that sloper" or "That is a dangerous clip." All these negative thoughts can stop you in your tracks before you even leave the ground. Instead, look at the positive attributes of the climb. You know it is hard, thats what makes it a worthy climb. Whats good about it? Does the bad sloper have a sweet spot? Is there a safe clipping position? All these questions can unlock what seemed like an impossible problem.

Take on a positve attitude. Learn from the problem. Anger will do nothing but sap your energy and blind you to the possibilities.

Tag Anyone?!

Well after a warmup and working projects Leo made us play...TAG! Nothing like making a bunch of 20 something and 30 somethings run around a gym like a bunch of kids! There is no dignity left.

All kidding aside, it was a good and challanging exersice. It forces us to stay on a wall and keep moving for 20 minutes, without being board to death, not bad.

My Home Wall

Hard to get a good picture of the wall. This is along the back of my garage. First panel is 15 degrees, second has a 2 foot kicker then off at 30 degrees and the third has a four foot kicker and then off at 45 degrees.

For endurance, I traverse back and forth.

It has been awhile.

Well if there is anyone still looking at this blog, thanks for the persistence.

Leo's course is going well and would encourage anyone to drop by. Aside from a good workout, there is a lot of information being passed around. There is a good turn out each week and a number of people come by themselves and get matched up so not having a partner is no excuse.

We are getting to know one another and I think this will be great for next summer. I think most of us are chewing at the bit to get strong for outdoor climbing.

Setting: an awesome exercise!
Leo discussed setting with us about 2 weeks ago and it makes a lot of sense. Setting is having your body ideally positioned so one hand can release the wall, position it above the next hold for a count of 5 before grasping the hold. It forces you to center your weight properly and use the least energy consuming stances. Keep your hips into the wall. Do as an endurance exercise.

Sunday Night Course

Leo is talking about starting a sunday night training course for adults. It will focus on a periodization training schedule, similar to what I do now. It will be from 8pm to 11 or 12pm and will include training sessions, stretching and sport specific training. I think it will be a great motivator.

For Bill

An early morning at Spankies Playground. Ohh to train for next summer.

Good luck to Bill who will be soon climbing at Red Rocks...lucky guy.

Power Period- 3 weeks

You should be climbing hard 3 times per week, 1 to 2 sport specific exercise work out per week and 2 antagonistic work out per week.

Examples of power work outs;

1. Pyramids- Choose a hard red point. Climb first three moves, rest less tan 30 sec, climb first 4, rest, first 6, rest first 8 (or top out), rest the first 4. That would be one set. An alternative would be to use the same route but do the last 3 moves, then last 4, last6, then from base.
2. Four by fours- Find 2 routes on the same wall. One should be a hard red point and the other 2 grades below. Climb the hard then immediately the easy (this is a 'rest') , back to the hard with out rest and finish on the easy.
3. Bouldering
4. HIT strips
5. System training
6. Hangboards.
7. Campus board.

Sport specific training would include weighted pull ups, bentover row, dumbell row, bicept curls, core exercises, wrist curls. Reps should be in the 4 to 6 range except wrist curls which should be 10 to 15. Do 3 to 5 sets of each. Finish off with a hangboard or rock rings routine.

Antagonist training would include bench press, push ups, dips, tricept curls, shoulder press, lateral raise ect. Reps should be 8 to 10 with 3 sets.

If you are above ideal body weight (pinch more than an inch) diet smartly and run 30 min 3 times per week...I am in this group.

100th Post

Well, my apologies for not posting recently but I was away in Greece. I didn't go climbing but it would definitely be an AWESOME destination in the future.

This is my 100th post to the blog over roughly a 2 year period.

Jay at Wilderness Area

This is a shot of Jay climbing at the Avalon Wilderness Area. He talks about this area like it was his favorite child. I look forward to getting out there some day.

Endurance Night

Tonight is another endurance night. Warm up well (4 laps).

Then do 10 minute intervals of harder endurance...ie Hard enough that if you were to downclimb you couldn't stay on for all 10 min. So 1 level below onsight. Climb and lower off. See how many laps you can get in 10 minutes.

Endurance WOD- Bouldering

Warmup
Light bouldering, standard warmup or running for 10 to 15 min.

Traverse times three.
Choose a section bouldering wall that is easy or flat (about 20 feet worth). Place a hanger at each side. Clip 3 to 5 draws on one side. Start at the other side, traverse boulder to the draws, take one and clip it to your harness (or shirt), carry it to the other side and clip it to the empty hanger. Stay on the wall and traverse/ferry the rest of the draws over. That is one set. DO three sets. Rest about 3 to 5 min between sets.

Hangboard enduro
Unweight your feet with a chair under a hangboard or small foot holds. Grab the jugs of the board. Move the right hand down to a challanging hold, hold for two seconds and bring it back to the jug. Move the left hand down to the same type of hold, hold it for two seconds and then back up. Stay on the board for 30 to 60 seconds, mixing up the holds you move to off the jugs. Rest for the same period of time that you are on.

Do a set of either rock rings or hangboard.

Cool down with some easy bouldering.

20 minutes from Hell

Work out for tuesday

Sport specific exersice (no actual climbing)

Crossfit warm-up
15 squat
10 situp
10 pullup
10 pushup
**Do circuit 3 times

Tabata day

A tabata is a cycle of exersice aimed at improving endurance or power endurance, depending on the weight chosen. The cycle goes as follows:

Choose a light weight for the exersice. The exersice should be done quickly but with control. Start by doing the exersice for 20secs (work phase) and then rest for 10 secs(rest). This would be one cycle. Enter directly into the next cycle and do a total of 8 cycles (should take 4 min). If you can't complete a cycle with good form then the weight is too heavy. Trust me, START LIGHT! Rest for two minutes then start the next exersice.

Tabata this;
1. Jumping pullups (jump slightly at the start of the pullup to unload your weight).
8 cycles then 2 minute rest.
2. Bentover row.
8 cycles then 2 minute rest.
3. Bicept curls
8 cycles then 2 minute rest.
4. Wrist curls.
8 cycles.

Now that you are warmed up, time for enduro-hangs. Use jugs on the hangboard/rock rings or chin bar. Dead hang for 1 minute. Rest one minute. Repeat times 5 total. If this is too easy for you, try bent arm hangs.