Ohh Boy!!

We were out on Tuesdays morning and I tried the next route on Cemetery Face. It is a little bit harder than I thought...OK a lot harder, but it is really fun. It will go hard 10 or 5.11a. The crux is a neat move where you either use a two finger under cling or a mono-pocket to reach over about 3 feet of featureless rock. Then it moves on to some balancy side pulls thru to the top. I figure about 4 bolts plus anchors.

The next line follows an over hanging bulge. It looks well featured but who knows. I haven't been on it yet but I am psyched!!!!

Tomorrow we are going out to the face we are working in CBS. Another line shoulld go down. We will see.

Map to Cemetery Face

The link below is to a map of Anglican Cemetery Road in portugal Cove. The road turns to dirt and the face is across from the first obvious pullout.
http://maps.google.ca/maps?hl=en&q=&ie=UTF8&ll=47.629132,-52.831106&spn=0.019349,0.037079&z=15&om=1

Pic Cemetery Face

This is a picture of Cemetery Face from the pullout just below the face. To the left of the face is a ramp that allows easy access to the top. All the top anchors are easily reached. The face catches evening sun. At least one more line between yellow and blue. The face to the left is short but blank.

Cemetery Face

Two more lines were established on Cemetery Face in Portugal Cove this morning.

First was a 5.7 Trad line called Shrouded. I placed four pieces plus two top bolts. It follows an irregular crack which made placing cams problematic. It should be fine with passive pro.

Second is a 5.8 sport line called Shallow Grave. It has four bolts plus two top bolts for anchors (same as Shrouded). The line is only 20 to 25 feet high so the bolts are tight but necessary to prevent a possible ledge fall.

I see at least 2 more lines going up on this face, one an easy 5.10 and the other 5.10+ or 5.11-. We will see.

Climbing Tuesday

Tuesday mornings forcast looks good. We will be going to Cemetery Face in Portugal Cove hoping to send a couple of new lines. Bob and I meet at Tim Horton's (Torbay and Majors Path) at 5:00am for anyone interested.

Flacid Ledge

1 Size Matters Not 5.11a Sport

2 Flacid 5.10a Sport

3 Homer Erectus 5.9 Trad

Hakuna Matata

First Line - Ivan's Corner 5.6 Trad

Second Line- Hakuna Matata 5.10a/b Sport (One Piece)

Candy's Face

Blue line- Nubbin's 5.11a Trad

Red line- The Program 5.11a Sport

White line- ? Name 5.8 Trad

Purple Line- Jay's Route (?Piece of shit) 5.10+ Mixed

Yellow Line- Candy 5.6 Sport (One peice)

Green Line- Ivan's Corner 5.6 Trad

Climbers

I have talked ot several people in the gym about getting outside (Kim, Bill, etc). I usally tell people to see this site and leave a phone number in the comments. I am very eager to bring people out but I need contact numbers.

Jayce on Candy

I had Jayce out to Flat Rock today. We set a TR on Candy to see how he would do. Well...not one bit of fear. He is only 6 years old and he has got his first 5.7.

Next...Yellow Fever!

Maggie 5.11a

I finally junped on Maggie on Wed past. This is Jay on top rope nearing the crux. He was doing laps and making it look easy. I barely made it thru the crux after many attempts.

AN excellent climb. **** stars for sure.

The two lines.

These are the two lines Bob and I were working on. Bob is on a 'mock' lead on the right side (two ropes going up). The line I am working is on the left.

It starts with the crescent shaped crack and follows into the dihedral above.

We are looking for brave soles to come climb/clean.

Serious Dude!

Bob plugging gear.

Sunday past, Bob and I were at Manuels cleaning and prepping 2 lines. This is Bob 'mock' leading his line, checking placements. This is the same route he broke his ankle on last May.

Guess what he is going to call it when he sends it!?!

New Face in Manuels

Bob has been talking about this face for over a year now. This is the very face he broke his ankle on last year. I wondered about his enthusiasm until I got there earlier this month. It has the kind of territory both of us have been looking for... long easy trad.

We have cleaned two lines, a 5.4 and a 5.6, both about 100 feet.

Delayed Gratification 5.10a

Well I finally did it. The rain managed to stop long enough for the face to dry. Bob and I were out this morning and the route fell! I have been waiting about two weeks to send it but our spring weather kept me off it.

The face is in Portugal Cove at the top of Anglican Cemetery Road. The road turns to dirt and leads to Blast Hole Ponds. The face is about 200 meters in from the road and there is a pull out immediately across from the face. I have cut a path through the bush to the base. Gratification starts about 5 meters from the left side arete. There are 3 bolts plus 2 bolts for top anchors. It is about 25 feet high.

The top is easily access by climbing a 5.1 ramp up the left side. Above Gratifications the are two bolts near the edge. One of these can be clipped with a daisy in order to reach the top anchors.

The Anglican Cemetery Face seems a mouth full so I'll just call it the Cemetery Face. In keeping with the morbid theme there is another face up the road that I call the Cold Slab. It has potential for easy trad and slab/face climbing.

A second set of top bolts have been placed to the right of the Cemetery Face. These are above a trad line and a future sport route. The trad line has not been sent yet so please don't lead it. I will post when it goes down (should be soon).

Cool Little Face

I have been curious about a small face for a number of years now. I have hiked by it a number of times, in fact you can drive to the base of it. This spring I solo top roped it and I am quite happy with it. It is slightly over hanging (like Bloodbath) and about 25 feet high. It will probably yield 4 to 5 sport routes and one trad.

I placed a set of top bolts and top solo'd one route. It pretty fun and cruxie at the top. I bolted it about two weeks ago and have not been able to get on it because of the weather (see previous post). It has three bolts plus top anchors and will go at an easy 5.10.

There is another line just beside it that I have played on but haven't completed. Definite crux move half way up (ohh 10 feet!) with a cool undercling.

There is an off-vertical crack that moves up easier terrain. I haven't been on it (yet) but it will likely go at 5.8 or less.

There are a couple of smaller slab faces in the area that may also give up a couple of climbs. More details to come when I have it a little better developed.

For the hell of it!

Boy does this weather SUCK! Bob and I have been out a few times...shivering and skittering off wet holds. Can we please get some decent #@%$& weather.

No new pictures. I have bolted a new route but haven't sent yet, probably a low 10.?. There are a couple of others on the horizon. More info when available.

Geoff and company are back from Red Rocks. A great time had by all. Leo and possibly Jay will be back from Squamish next week. In the mean time we wait for warmer, drier weather.

Noel

Old Geezers

The time has come! The old geezers are getting out in the mornings. Bob and I got out once on a Tuesday so far and now it is definitely light enough at 5:00am. SO if a Tuesday looks good, chances are Bob and I will be out at 5:00am. Keep watching!

Top Sail Head- Second Bluff

After climbing in the Gunks, I am eager to find some long easy trad climbing. Holyrood does fit the bill, but you need an hour just to get there.

This is the second bluff at Topsail Head Beach. There are many possible lines, it is just a matter of getting on them. This is only 15 minutes from my house. One day soon I am going to throw a fixed line down this to see what it is like.

Any takers?