Strength Training on Lead

Exercise "Clip to Clip"

Choose a hard redpoint lead project. After a good warm-up, climb to your high point and lower off. Pull your rope and then immediately start again. Climb to the first draw, clip and lower off. Quickly shake out, clip the second draw and lower off, so on and so forth. Be careful on overhanging routes as the higher you get the bigger the pendulum if you fall close to the ground.

This is great for working a route into submission but you get most familiar with the lower section. It is also good practice for clipping with flaming forearms. To get the best strength benefit it needs to be a hard project, not something you can top out.

Winter Training

Well, it is that time of year. I have been off real rock for about 6 months and I am starting to get REALLY itchy. I am also planning a weekend trip to the 'Gunks' in early April so it is time to get in shape and hopefully a little leaner.

A little inspiration... This is the 'Trapps" one of several huge crags at the Gunks, Upstate New York. There are over 1500 established routes. It is hard core trad climbing with restrictions on bolting placed in the 70's, only the rap anchors have fixed pro.

For the next 3 weeks is a Power Phase. Three climbing work outs per week. These consist of a warm-up, climbing and power training.

Warm-up is an thing that gets the blood flowing. In the gym it is 4 easy laps and at home it is 3 circuits of 15 squats, 15 crunches, 10 dips and 10 pull-ups.

Power climbing is basically climbing at a point where muscle exhaustion occurs in less than one minute. Obviously bouldering fits into this but my focus is sport/trad climbing. I choose a route at my extreme red point level (Hard 10 or 11a) and work it. Start from the beginning if you fall because the point isn't climbing the route but exhausting the muscles.

Another exercise Bob and I like is something I think of as progressions. Choose a red point project and climb the first 3 moves and step off. Repeat this after a short rest (<15 class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">maxi um, and finally 3 moves.

4 by 4 is another useful exercise which can be used for power or power endurance depending on your route choices. For power you should find a wall with a red point project and an easier climb together. Climb the project to the high point and fall. Immediately get on the easy one and top it. Lower off and go straight to the project. Repeat this 3 to 5 time or until crying.

Do 5 sets of "exercises" all together. Follow this by a a set of rock rings or hang board and then 3 sets of weighted pull-up (7 reps max).

Stay tuned for other power exercises for climbing.

Periodization

If you are under the age 15 this post ain't for you. Periodization is a training technique used to improve overall climbing. Kids under 15 just need to climb like crazy because your body doesn't really get any benefit for this type of training. Look at all the pre-teen and teen climbers hitting 5.13 and 5.14 after only a couple years of climbing...You don't need it.

For the rest of us it is a battle, and then like myself... A war. I have read a lot on training and it boils down to some very simple ideas. Most of us don't train, we just climb. We work a project after a couple of warm-up laps, flail for a while and go home. This is fun but it is not training. We plateau soon enough, I was stuck at 5.10a for 2 years. To become better climbers we must work weaknesses and become systematic in our approach and this is where periodization comes in.

Periodization is training in block intervals on one type of climbing; endurance, power or power-endurance. Endurance is very important on longer route but also with changing styles of climbing. It takes much longer to climb a sport route than top rope and likewise longer still to climb trad. Power is important for bouldering and sport climbing. Power is called on to get that one HARD move. Power-endurance is needed when you feel that deep down nasty pump just as you are trying to make that next clip. It is being able able to climb for a period at near maximum power. We should train these individually to get the most benefit.

Bob and I have been following a 4-3-2-1 periodization schedule and I have seen good results (Over the last 12 months I have gone from climbing 5.10a to 5.10d and working my first 5.11.). It works like this;

1. 4 weeks of endurance. Easy climbing at 2 grads below your onsite grade. Continuous climbing (up and down climb without touching the floor) for 10 minutes then switch belay. Some nights we would climb slightly harder routes but do laps (ie climb up and lower off). You should not feel a heavy burn doing this, if you are get on something easier.
2. 3 weeks of power. 10 minute intervals of redpoint climbing or bouldering. One routine we use is to climb the first 3 moves then lower off, then 4 moves, lower, 6 moves lower, top out or high point and lower and then the first three again.
3. 2 weeks of power-endurance. Here you want to chase the burn. You want that nasty deep burn every time you get on the wall. If you get the burn in less than 5 minutes...Too hard. If you last more than 10 minutes...Not hard enough.
4. 1 week of rest. No climbing just allow yourself to heal before the next series.

Very impotent tips;

1. Always warm up with easy laps. If you don't warm up well you are much more likely to get injured.
2. Drink water while you are working out. Dehydration stops the body from performing well.
3. Have a protein shake with in 30 minutes of the end of the workout. You body needs the protein substrate to build muscle and it is most effective when you are pumped.
4. Take you vitamins. Vit C helps rebuild proteins (ie muscle) and a multi-vit will make sure you aren't missing any important things.
5. If you don't have power you have nothing to endure! You should be be doing 3 sets of pull-up daily 5 times per week. Aim for 10 to 12 reps. If you can't get 10, do as many as possible and do the rest as negatives. If 10 is easy, do 5 to 10 Frenchies (Pull-up and hold at the top for 3-5sec then lower, pull up and then lower to 90 degrees, lock off and hold for 3-5 sec then lower and pull up and lower to 125 degree, lock off and hold for 3-5sec...that is one rep).
6. Power is related to your strength to weight ratio. The heavier you are the worse it is. It is easier to loose weight than to gain strength. Cut out junk food, cut out between meal snacks. If you eat a reasonable diet and you are still not at your ideal climbing weight start running. 20 to 30 minutes 3-4 times per week.
7. Train antagonistic muscles 2 times per week. These are the opposing muscles which you use for climbing. Injure can occur if a balance is not kept. A basic chest, tricept and shoulder workout will do fine. (Push-up or bench press 3 set of 10, tricept dips or extensions 3 sets of 10, shoulder press or handstand press 3 sets of 10 or max)
8. Train core 2 times per week.
9. With the above periodization, climb 4 times per week with endurance and power-endurance, 3 times per week with power (Needs more recovery).

SO...over all you should be climbing 4 times per week, running 3 times per week, working antagonistic and core muscles 2 times per week and following a reasonable diet. Post a comment if you have any questions or comments.

Noel

Nubbin and others

Bob, Tak and I were top roping 'Nubbin' when I took this picture. Tak is climbing and Bob is belaying/bottom anchor. The top rope anchor is set on two bolts which can be reached by carefully traversing right from the Iron Hand Rap Anchor. The second rope is over Candy. I almost have seven routes in this picture.

1 Farewell to Arms 5.11b A difficult trad climb I have never been on.

2 Nubbin 5.10c Trad climb with one bolt protecting the crux.

3 LSTD Project 5.11a/b Just put up this year. Three bolts and a piece of pro.

4 A Few Tense Moments 5.8 Trad climb in the corner. You can exit to the top of Nubbin.

5 Piece of Shit 5.10c/d Jays un-named route. I slashed my finger on it the last time I tried it.

6 Candy 5.7 Easiest sport line on main face. This route allows easy access to the top of Iron Hand and all the above routes.

7 Ivan's Corner 5.6 One of the original trad lines that has not seen much activity.

Hakuna Matata 5.9

Hakuna Matata is a nice moderate sport climb. The first bolt is at shoulder height. This is because of the shifting boulders at the base. It used to be at about 10 feet. It moves up the obvious corner to the roof where it gets interesting.

The 4th bolt is well placed just above the roof. There is a long reach to the first horizontal crack. It feels quite airy because you are just over the roof. Once into the cracks it is quite straight forward. There is a nice crack for gear (blue dot). The anchors are just above.

To the left in the corner is Ivan's Corner (5.7). This is a old trad climb. It shares the same start as Candy with the first bolt of Candy in green.

Iron Hand 5.9+

Iron Hand is one of the earliest established route on Main Face rated as 5.9+. It climbs like a 5.10a/b.

Start in the corner with a mantle on the first ledge. Reach into the corner and work up to the ledge under the ceiling. Traverse left then follow a series of lay backs up to the anchors.

The anchors at the top of Iron Hand were replaced this summer by Jason Wall. Two lengths of SS chain are on bolts and are much better than what was once there.

The top of Iron Hand is easily accessed by walking over the ledge from the top of Candy.

Candy 5.7

Candy is the route in black on the right. It starts in the corner and travels left after the 1st bolt. Just above the 2nd bolt is a nice jug which leads into the horizontal gear crack. Top out after clipping the 3rd bolt onto a nice wide ledge where the top bolts are placed.

The route beside it is un-named and is about 5.10c/d. Jay has the first ascent and therefore the right to name it. I asked him what he was going to call it and his reply was "What...that piece of shit!?!" So by default I guess the name is... Piece of Shit.

I like the Piece of Shit. You start under a small ceiling and reach the first large horizontal ledge. Then you smear both feet onto the bottom of the face and reach for a crimp with the right. With no feet and one crimp you reach left for a vertical crack. This allows you to reposition your feet and gain the next horizontal crack. There are 2 bolts and a gear placement. We are going to place a 3rd bolt above the gear placement to primarily keep the route to the left side of the face. Currently people are just using the last bolt on Candy which is actually off route. Try out the piece of shit for yourself.

Morning Climb

Bob and I are going climbing tomorrow at 6:00am at Main Face (Sat).

Breakfast Club.

First time ever that Bob and I have been on MainFace at 6:00 am and two other climbers show up. Jeff and Matt crawled out of bed so they could climb before Jeff went to work at 12:00. Good on ya guys.

I revisited an old nemesis, Iron Hand. It is a trad climb with a rap anchor at the top. I first climbed it back in 1995 and I haven't been back since. It is graded as a 5.9+ but it feels harder (5.10a/b). You climb up a corner below a roof that requires a mantle and then a tricky reach for a pocket. When you get the pocket, you move to a horizontal crack and work it to the left from under the roof and follow a crack to the top. It feels fairly exposed and there is a good swing it you fall low while on TR.

The feet on the traverse are my problem. I have nothing to stand on so I got worked just hanging on to that ledge. It may be called Iron Hand but at the end it felt more like lead.

TR access is quite easy once you have climbed Candy.

Stolen Gear

Wed Aug 30, 2006...some #$@% stole my climbing gear out of my car trunk. Things that are missing include

1. Bluewater 60 meter 10.3mm climbing rope (only 3 months old).
2. An array of quick draws (14 all together) DB Positron.
3. Orange Mad Rock Climbing Shoe's
4. Rock Empire Harness.
5. Arc'terx Chalk bag
6. Set of DB Camalots (.3 thru to 3)\
7. 6 Petzl locking D's
8. Various slings and 2 cordalettes.
9. 60L pack

*As you can tell, it was a major loss!!!!

The #$@^%$ idiots who took this stuff probably have no idea what it is for and just tossed it. If they are stupid enough to either use it or try to sell it, I am hoping someone spots my gear. It is all marked with purple ID tape. If it is seen, get a hold of me thru Wallnuts Climbing Gym.

Thanks.

Noel

Strange Summer

It has been a strange summer. I thought this summer was going to be HUGE for climbing but quite the opposite. Where is everyone?!? A lot of the regulars are well not regular. In fact they are absent.

For me personally it has been great. I have been out more this year than ever before and I have learned a lot. My secret...mornings!!!

I climb 2x per week in the wee hours of the morning. I usually meet Bob at Tim's at 5:00am on Tuesdays. Same on the weekend, either Sat or Sun, depending on whats going on at home. It is absolutely Awesome being down on MainFace when the sun is rising.

I am also surprised by who is willing to climbing with us at that hour. Jason, Leo and Tak have all come out with us at the crack of dawn.

Next Post...Candy

Time for a Change

I apologize to all those who had great hopes for the Avalon Climbing Club but the interest just wasn't there. I hope someone else may pick up the torch in future but I just don't have the time.

I will continue to publish my own climbing experiences and interesting pictures but nothing in regards to a "club".

Noel

Thursday July 27 Bouldering Session

Ok, ignore most of that last post, i've changed some of my plans and am going to do the thing this week.

I think the best bet would be to meet at wallnuts between 5:30 and 6:00 so we can leave there at 6:00 sharp ( this should allow people who work till 5:00 to come? does anybody have 9-5 jobs, i wish i did).

I'm thinking the marine lab as a first destination, it has a wide range of difficulty for problems as well as alot of problems in the v0-v3/4 range. Also it's a location that can be very difficult to figure out what problem is what on your own.

2nd destination will probably be flatrock and they I am thinking the Vacation Boulders for some barrens fun.

of course if there is a alot of disagreement those can be changed.

Um...anyway, hopefully enough people with cars will come that we can drive everyone out, if there is more room in cars than there is people than we can leave some cars at wallnuts and drop the owners bad there after to save on gas 'n' stuff.

So i guess thats about it, i hope to put a poster up in wallnuts soon for it.

also! i am in no way responsible for the safety of anyone attending. I'm just going climbing at a place and if anyone else wants to climb there at the same time that's up to them.

i am not a guide.


hope that covered everthing...Dave

Bouldering Delays

Sorry about not getting things off the ground for the weekly outdoor bouldering sessions yet.
I got a new job with strange hours and management are very lax with giving us our schedules so i've been unable to plan anything. I was hoping to be able to finally do it this week but i just got my schedule today and there doesn't seem to be any good time to do it. So... fingers crossed that sometime next week we'll be able to have our first session. I'm looking forward to it.

A Good Day

I had a really good day before it started raining. Jay and I were out at 9:00 am and the first thing we did were these three routes. I can't remember the name of the first route but it was about a 5.10c. The middle route it No Freebies (I think) rated at 5.10b. The third route is called Menage et Trois is also a mid 5.10.

The first one had a hard crux with an undercling and a crimp then reaching high for a jug. Menage et Trois was a lot of fun moving off the roof and had a lot of variations.

After those, Jay did Magie in fine style and I TR'd Yellow Fever, scarlet Fever and Sea Scape. I had only done Yellow Fever prior to today. 5 new routes for me. I am especially happy because this is the first year I have climbed beyond 5.10a outdoors.

Top Anchor

I have bee meaning to post something on my top anchor for a while. I use a long length of 11mm static line (80 feet). A 10 foot length of 1 inch tubular webbing is over the 11mm line and placed in the center. A figure 8 on a bight creates the power point for the top anchor.


Each 'leg' of the 11mm line is attached to a single bomb proof anchor such as a bolt, large tree or a unified pro anchor. The webbing sheath protects the rope as it runs over a ledge, protects the knot from abrasion and provides redundancy at the power point.

This is my most frequently used piece of equipment outdoors. The static line is much tougher and resistant to abrasion than a dynamic rope. I find it faster and safer to set up top anchors. Most important...It is damn strong.

The original article suggested using a 50 foot length of line and 4 feet of webbing. I thought this may not be long enough for some of the anchor placements at Blood Bath and Prossers Rock. I was also concerned that less than 2 feet webbing to protect the rope over an edge might not be enough so I went with the lengths described above. 50 feet probably would have been fine. I have more than enough length for the anchors and I end up hauling around excessive rope.

The webbing could also be a bit shorter. The webbing sheath sides on the rope (above the figure 8) when you pull on it as in when your are lowering onto rappel or topping out.

This anchor system is excellent and is relatively easy to use. Remember, personal instruction is always better than something you have read off "the net". Ask people what they use and why.

Paging Don Keidick

"Paging Don Keidick" is the new 5.10b/c on Main Face towards the left end just before the waters edge. This route was bolted by Jason Wall in early June and the first ascent was by Leo VanUlden later that week.

Donkey Dick is a great 5.10 with 25-27 meters of climbing. It is well protected with 12 bolts plus top anchors. The opening moves are difficult and kind of bouldery. Then you traverse left over the edge of a ceiling to an arete. The left side is followed up on nice thin ledges and pulls for the first half. It is 5.9 to 5.10a moves on slightly positive terrain. Then the climb becomes vertical and the moves get harder.

Becareful...kamikaze seagulls live near by. One pair of climbers got seriously dive bombed as they approached the anchors.

This route has seen a good number of assents since it was established. Everyone agrees that it has great flow and sequence, logically and safely bolted and that it is an instant classic sport route.

Topsail Head Bluff

Topsail Head Bluff over looks Topsail Head Beach. This is the first of two bluffs of about equal size. At first look it appears kind of choppy but the upper half may have some good sport lines. The bottom half may also be alright.

This shot is taken from the parking lot and it is very accessible. I hope to check it out next week.

More new routes.

Main Face as seen several new routes go up over the last month. Jason has bolted new starts to at least 2 routes which were damaged by rock fall several years ago. He also put up the a new mid 5.10 sport. Leo made the first ascent in mid June and it has seen many repeats since. 12 bolts over 25 meters. That is one of my projects for the summer.

Leo and I have been eyeing 2 new routes towards Iron Hand Wall. One will be an easy 5.6 sport and the other in the 5.11 range.

Leo hopefully will be putting these routes in the new guide book. Still no word on when that may be finished.

A Blog!

Well it seems more like this is becoming my own personal blog!?! I haven't been in the gym regularly since May. There hasn't been anything to update on the board and everybody is too busy climbing.

SO...I will just carry on as if the Avalon Climbing Club was more than me posting on this Blog.
Other people have access to post to this blog so there may be more posts from people other than me.

Noel